2022+ specific oil coolers

[Pat]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Is it the oil temp or something else? Who knows.

Aww c'mon. Can someone please just answer this correctly? I'm lookin' at you, Data Mike.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Rear world example.

2nd gen pulls on a S2k on a roll race. 8 roll races later, the 2nd gen is now losing to the s2k.

Alternatively, many back to back pulls of a 2nd gen on a dyno reveals a consistent drop in output.

Is it the oil temp or something else? Who knows.

Haha do you actually know the answer? Assuming AP2? I should have a chance to test this out in a few months, should be interesting!

[Jianlun]

Different part number to the one for 1st gen.
https://jacksonracing.com/product/fr...toroil-cooler/
2nd gen. 5101-12-J01
1st gen. 5101-07-J02

Wonder if the routing is slighting less awkward and "kinky".

Would it be better to remove the stock 2022 water to oil heat exchanger that is now sitting under the JR sandwich plate? Since the water to oil heat exchanger at the dual rad would be so much more effective than the stock one, no seanse having the oil suffer TWO pressure drops going thru TWO heat exchangers? Wonder what the oil temeratures are of having TWO heat exchangers vs just the JR dual rad set up alone.

Yes i understand leaving the stock heat exchanger installed will help with cold start warm ups but i more concerned with pressure loss and cavitation at high rpms. Removing the stock heat exchanger will relief some of that overall restriction the oil sees.

Maybe experts can chip in?

[DocWalt]

I don't think the Jackson Racing combo rad/oil cooler is very good at heating the oil up which the stock heat exchanger is quite good at.


I'd rather have fewer failure points, but I think keeping the stock heat exchanger is pretty important for a street driven car in a cooler climate. I couldn't get my oil temps up where they belong on the street if it was under ~45-50 F on my first gen even with a thermostatic sandwich plate.

[BioRebel]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I don't think the Jackson Racing combo rad/oil cooler is very good at heating the oil up which the stock heat exchanger is quite good at.


I'd rather have fewer failure points, but I think keeping the stock heat exchanger is pretty important for a street driven car in a cooler climate. I couldn't get my oil temps up where they belong on the street if it was under ~45-50 F on my first gen even with a thermostatic sandwich plate.

Does it replace the stock oil conditioner? I don't think I saw him remove it in that video.
I know their (Jackson Racing) standalone oil cooler is one of the few that doesn't replace it which is why its the one I'm probably going to get.

[LRNAD90]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I couldn't get my oil temps up where they belong on the street if it was under ~45-50 F on my first gen even with a thermostatic sandwich plate.

Savage Geese complained of the same issue, and ultimately had to disconnect his oil cooler during winter months...

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by BioRebel

Does it replace the stock oil conditioner? I don't think I saw him remove it in that video.
I know their (Jackson Racing) standalone oil cooler is one of the few that doesn't replace it which is why its the one I'm probably going to get.

It does not replace the stock heat exchanger. The post I was replying to suggested maybe removing the stock heat exchanger would be good though, but I disagree.

The Jackson Racing oil cooler/radiator has the oil cooler built into the radiator... 36F this morning and my thermostat was *just* cracking open 10 minutes into my drive and that's when the oil would finally start being heated. Not really acceptable for winter months, IMO

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I don't think the Jackson Racing combo rad/oil cooler is very good at heating the oil up which the stock heat exchanger is quite good at.

It does get the oil temp up to operating temperature pretty quickly on the 1st gen without a OE heat exchanger as well.

[Arthur-A]

Originally Posted by LRNAD90

Savage Geese complained of the same issue, and ultimately had to disconnect his oil cooler during winter months...

Why? Instead of just covering it with something.

[CSG Mike]

The DROC is pretty quick with getting oil up to temp.

In my experience (22+ specific) with both the JR and GReddy units, you'll get to a full equilibrium 170F+ post-cooler oil temps with an ambient of 25-50F in about 10-15 minutes of gentle driving. Yeah, California desert gets decently cool!

[Pat]

When my 2023 BRZ finally show up I can put the JR oil cooler on it. But knowing I often drive in 0*F with my car during ski season, should I cover the heat exchanger somehow in the winter? IIRC, the DROC comes with blue corrugated plastic. Would that be a good thing to do?
I'm imagining pulling out of the parking lot and right on to the interstate after the car sits in 0* for several hours.

[Jianlun]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The DROC is pretty quick with getting oil up to temp.

In my experience (22+ specific) with both the JR and GReddy units, you'll get to a full equilibrium 170F+ post-cooler oil temps with an ambient of 25-50F in about 10-15 minutes of gentle driving. Yeah, California desert gets decently cool!

Thank you. I thinking of getting the DROC and removing the stock heat exchanger to (hopefully) let the oil see similiar-to-stock resistances (thus lower press drop and possibility of cavitation). Since schematically DROC and the stock heat exchanger are doing the exact same thing. What are your thoughts about this? Do you have experienece on whether the stock heat exchanger even moves the needle with the DROC installed or is rendered effectively insignificant in terms of adding more cooling.

I live in a tropical area.

With the stock heat exchanger removed, i assume its a simple blanking off of the water lines to/from it?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Jianlun

Thank you. I thinking of getting the DROC and removing the stock heat exchanger to (hopefully) let the oil see similiar-to-stock resistances (thus lower press drop and possibility of cavitation). Since schematically DROC and the stock heat exchanger are doing the exact same thing. What are your thoughts about this? Do you have experienece on whether the stock heat exchanger even moves the needle with the DROC installed or is rendered effectively insignificant in terms of adding more cooling.

I live in a tropical area.

With the stock heat exchanger removed, i assume its a simple blanking off of the water lines to/from it?

I recommend you run a dedicated cooler for your region.

[DocWalt]

Interesting info about the JR combo cooler, surprised you get enough heating since the thermostat is barely open and the radiator core is cool to the touch.