08-20-2012, 11:44 PM | #659 |
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First post
Not happy about my first post being about this but i had the idle dip below 500 my very first drive, dealership told me they hadnt heard of this and said drive it the rest of the weekend and pay attention... so i did.. im up to 72 miles.. and now it happened a 2nd time today and now im throwing duel lights(check engine/slip indicator). contacting dealership again tomorrow to let them know. hopefully they get this figured out and quick. waited 2 months for a car got it day before my b-day and now this
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08-21-2012, 12:09 AM | #660 | |
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Quote:
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08-21-2012, 01:04 AM | #661 |
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^^Sorry to hear that, Tricky. On the bright side, you got a cel. It will be a place for them to start the investigation into the problem. Good luck and please keep us posted.
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08-21-2012, 08:11 AM | #662 |
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One thing I've noticed, and if people from Toyota/Scion/Subaru are watching the forums, is that no one has listed their last 6 numbers of their VIN or their production date (which should be on the door frame sticker/plate) and brand of car.
Is this problem still happening to people who have just taken delivery of their cars in the last couple of weeks? |
08-21-2012, 08:20 AM | #663 | |
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The odd part is after 12 hours I started her back up and lights were gone. It came back later that day. Either way odd it went away at all. And it when that light is on at a dead stop n go traffic it also stalls every time I give her some juice. I can say this from my dealer screwing me 2 grand off my deal( they are actually rectifying that with a refund) to this issue I am really regretting trading in my 07 z06 . |
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08-21-2012, 09:40 AM | #664 |
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^^Z06, coud you tell us your last four VIN and your build date?
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08-21-2012, 09:52 AM | #665 |
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Ok so my car does this an I'm in a high heat area (Texas) and I think I may have figured out how to recreate this.
When coming to a light with your rpms dropping you clutch in, making your rpms drop even more. When doing this the ECU doesn't have enough time to realize it's passed 650 idle by a long shot and can't recover fast enough. Now if I stay in 2nd gear coasting up to the light, and stay at around 2,000 rpm before clutching in the rpms will drop slower and it won't dip below idle. Essentially when you're slowing down your rpms are falling, when you clutch in at that last moment you set the engine on a free fall and the idle setting is just too low and the ECU is too slow to counteract the fall. This can be fixed a couple of ways. The first being not to clutch in when the rpms are falling. This method kind of sucks since you have to modify the way you drive to fix a problem that shouldn't exist. The second would be to raise the idle speed giving the ECU more time to realize what's happening and correct it before it drops to a very low rpm. This option will either cost you close to $1,000 for the EcuTek tune, or we have to wait for Toyota to increase the rpm or the sensitivity of idle algorithm. Either way I can get it to shudder every time by clutching in coming to a stop and letting the rpms fall fast. |
08-21-2012, 09:54 AM | #666 |
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That must be why I haven't seen a hint of this issue. I drive an auto.
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08-21-2012, 01:35 PM | #667 |
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Rustymx---what is your idle set at with the Visconti tune? Manual or auto trans?
Are the problems just with manual transmission cars or are some of them in automatics as well? (I'm not going to re-read all 31 pages) |
08-21-2012, 03:13 PM | #668 | |
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Quote:
1st post, don't want to start a new thread but I just got my FRS about a week and a half ago, i got a CEL within 60 miles of driving (driving home from dealership). I have the REV app on my phone and it told me i had a P0019 code (crank shaft position - camshaft position correlation bank2/sensor B). The code also came on and off randomly. Took it to the dealer and its been sitting there for over a week now. 2 toyota specialists came out and started taking pictures of the car and had a computer plugged into the OBDII. Just got off the phone with the service dept at the dealer, they said the cam gears were bad and they had to take the motor apart and I won't get the car till friday, so 10 days with no FRS . I think they also swapped the ecu because they need me to bring in my spare set of keys to re program them... They said also that the RPM dip was from the cam gears. I am not happy with this situation at all. After all the anticipation of finally getting the car and I only got to drive the car for a couple days.. seriously blows. I also told them about the obnoxious chirping sound. *edit* The car is a Manual Transmission. For the record, I was following the break-in period recommendations. Haven't abused the car once. snapped a quick photo, guy to the left was taking photos and documenting everything. Last edited by number1Tango; 08-21-2012 at 04:00 PM. |
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08-21-2012, 03:31 PM | #669 |
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Manual or Automatic? Last 4 in VIN/ Prod. Date?
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08-21-2012, 03:38 PM | #670 |
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It's a Manual. I don't know the VIN or Prod date, I'll find out tomorrow when I head to the dealership to give them my spare key.
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08-21-2012, 08:22 PM | #671 |
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Add another new delivery headache to the list. Picked up my car on Friday (8/17) and am now driving a loaner due to the CEL/SL/idle issue which occured today after about 140 miles. VIN ends in 075XX.
On top of this, I just had it Opti-coated and took a day off to put some miles on... Not at all happy about this, I spoke with Scion corporate to start an investigation in the matter. Just for the record, I've been careful to stay below 4000 RPM and had no rough idle issue until today. Also note, that I drive with VSC and traction control fully disabled (hold for 3 seconds). When the rough idle started to occur, I noticed an odd vibration/tapping noise somewhere between 3200-4000 RPM. This tapping occured for several minutes and the rough idle continued when slowing to a stop. At one stretch of road I was cruising in 6th and started to smell a burning oil/rubber scent. It only lasted for roughly a minute and may not have been related. After about 20 minutes into the trip, I came to an intersection, the engine almost stalled, and the CEL with SL immediately followed. That also cancelled out my removal of traction control. Interestingly enough, in limp home mode (assuming I was in this due to noticeably less power), the engine no longer had idle issues; I'm assuming it disables or limits the VVTI functionality. Edit: This is MT. Last edited by eurospeed; 08-21-2012 at 09:08 PM. |
08-21-2012, 08:34 PM | #672 |
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eurospeed, MT or AT?
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