A simpler spring/strut install DIY -- no compressor needed

[flashburn]

At what point am I supposed to tighten the top nut to the strut after swapping the spring? Should I only thread it a bit, until I lower the car to the ground, then tighten it to spec? Or should it be tightened to spec before the wheels touch the ground?

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by flashburn

At what point am I supposed to tighten the top nut to the strut after swapping the spring? Should I only thread it a bit, until I lower the car to the ground, then tighten it to spec? Or should it be tightened to spec before the wheels touch the ground?

I think I did hand tight until drop then tighten all the way.

[flashburn]

Originally Posted by bryan767

Top nut: 41 ft-lb.
Lower clevis bolts/nuts: 129 ft-lb
Brake line: 23.6 ft-lb
Top mount to chassis nuts: 22.4 ft-lb (not needed if shortcut used)
Shock to swingarm: 89 ft-lb
Swaybar endlink to swingarm: 33.2 ft-lb
Wheel lug nuts: 65.7 ft-lb.

http://racecompengineering.com/instr...structions.pdf

FYI you might want to edit your post, as at the very least the torque spec for the lug nuts is not correct, it should be 89 ft-lb.

[FRS-HHH]

got my bilstein pss b14's on today worked flawlessly thanks to your write up

[phatroksek]

thanks for the great write up! helped out immensely!

question... if i'm uneven in drop, is it due to these short cuts? is it something that needs to settle in? or is it the preload on the control arms that need to be reset?

thank you!

[Gunman]

Originally Posted by phatroksek

thanks for the great write up! helped out immensely!

question... if i'm uneven in drop, is it due to these short cuts? is it something that needs to settle in? or is it the preload on the control arms that need to be reset?

thank you!

Could be the pre-load, see page 30 on how to relieve it.
https://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_f...ns5218file.pdf

[phatroksek]

yep that's what I'm thinking!

went out for some more test drives, I do have a slight clunk here and there on the fronts. going up the driveway specifically at an angle. full lock right and left seems fine.

how would I remedy this? are my strut tops out of alignment or not tightened down enough?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TM]

Nevermind, stupid question.

[93cc]

Originally Posted by jeebus

The first thing you want to do, while the car is still on the ground, is get out your hollow ratchet. I picked up a Kobalt XtremeAccess. You need to have a 17mm and a 14mm socket for this. (The $39 kit at Lowes includes them). You also need a relatively long 6mm and 5mm allen wrench. I used vicegrips to hold them, but you could get one with a t-handle as well.

Now remove the top nut from the front and rear strut piston using said tools (hold the allen in place so the piston can't spin):

I tried this this morning using a hollow ratchet and t-handle, but I could not get the 17mm nut off. I was cranking on it it pretty hard and was worried I would either break something or bust my hand when the nut decided to come loose. I decided to stop cuz even if I got it off I was thinking how would I get it back on to the same amount of torque?

[normanb21]

Good write up thanks

[CoupedUpSubie]

For those who don't want to buy pass through sockets or grind down a socket use a 9/16" spark plug socket to tighten the top bolt. It is basically the same as a 14mm(what the other DIY states it is). They have the hex on them already and a hole through it, just might need to pop out the plastic or rubber bushing inside.

[Khyron686]

Bought an open socket set with a good 5mm and 6mm key - everything was gravy EXCEPT the damn swaybar links. My car has had 2 winters and the bolts were rusty which means they just spin even with an impact. I used an allen key but a max torque all my strength I was barely able to loosen it. Was able to get the springs on, but I'll have to have the dealer either drill off and replace the end links on the bar, or just get a new bar and have it installed (with new links).

[Gunman]

I swapped in a set of Hotchkis springs using this method last weekend, and it went way smoother than I expected. Had it not been for a downpour that caught me about 90% done, it would have been an uneventful install.

[Kids Heart]

Originally Posted by CaptainSlow

Short answer:
You don't have to disconnect the rear sway bar. You do have to disconnect the front. I'm not sure if you can just loosen the strut bolt in the rear and pivot it out, but I found it was just as easy to remove that bolt (very easy access)

The long answer:

So, the way I did it was:

- Remove top bolts from all 4 struts (using the allen wrenches and open sockets)
- Loosen lug nuts
- Raise car into air and put on jackstands
- Remove wheels
- FRONT:
1) Unclip ABS sensor wire (2 spots on both sides)
2) Unbolt brake line from strut assembly (both sides)
3) Disconnect sway bar end links (both sides)
4) Pull DOWN on strut assembly until the top rod pulls out enough to where you can rotate it TOWARDS you
5) Slip off old spring/bump stop
6) Put on new spring/bump stop and ORIGINAL rubber hat (not sure what it's actually called, but it's lightly press-fit onto the top of the spring)
7) Maneuver rod near hole
8) Lift up on the rotor to compress the suspension enough to get the nut started on the rod (top of strut tower inside engine bay)
7) Put everything back together again
- REAR:
1) Remove bolt from hub/control arm
2) Remove bolt from strut/control arm
3) Pull DOWN on strut/control arm until rod clears the hole
4) Slip off old spring/dust shield/bump stop
5) Slip on old spring/dust shield/bump stop
6) Maneuver control arm/strut down so that the rod is near the hole
7) Reinstall bolts for hub/control arm and strut/control arm
8) Use jack to push up on control arm enough to allow you to start the nut on the rod (top of strut tower inside trunk)
- Replace wheels and lightly tighten lug nuts
- Gently lower car onto ground
- Tighten up nuts on top of strut rods

Does anyone have a picture of Rear step 3?