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Old 12-19-2016, 11:06 AM   #57
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Just installed these over the weekend... Feels Awesome! Definitely one of those, "should have come this way from the factory" things.

Noticeably improved rear end characteristics. Can feel the difference in all aspects (acceleration, braking , cornering). For the price, this is a must do mod (especially if you have done other suspension mods)

Had a little trouble with the rear bolts like most, what worked for me was loosening all 4 corners, so i could wiggle the sub-frame to get the holes aligned.
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:24 AM   #58
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Hey guys I installed these over the weekend and everything went fine except I ended up cross-threading the passenger rear bolt... Should've looked for other instructions instead of just following Whiteline's, these are better.

Anyway, I have an issue now where I get this *tink* noise whenever I turn and/or go over like little potholes. It's definitely coming from the rear. It kinda sounds like that tight metal noise you get when tightening lug nuts. I double checked that everything is tightened down and also the lug nuts were tight but the noise remains. Perhaps I didn't put enough grease? Any other ideas? Thanks
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:24 AM   #59
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This is very common, and not aligning the bolt PRECISELY, as you've seen, will result in a cross thread. To make it worse its a cross thread you don't realise has happened until you start tightening with tools. Another reason to never use pwr tools doing this job.
You can re tension the bolts to make sure they are still tight, remove the bolt and re tap with a M14x1.5 tap, re thread the bolt with a M14x1.5 die, or, if you're game, remove the offending bolt and pack it with washers before re installing it and tensioning. An idiot I paid to install mine actually cross threaded one bolt as it was nearly home, despite me warning him, and he used washers to pack the bolt out a little. Seems to have worked but I want to go the tap and die route eventually. There is also the possibility that what you're hearing is normal now you've stiffened the bushes. Your NVH is going to be worse. I also installed the diff bushes at the same time and there is now a very mechanical noise from the rear when I reverse or select a gear every now and then. This is a job that's a lot more hazadous than the written instructions and Youtube clips let on. Good luck
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:20 AM   #60
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Do you think using this rental tool from AutoZone will work? http://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/t..._0_0?location=

Looks like the tap will be no where near long enough to get all the threads but I don't want to drop $25 on a long tap to be shipped to me next week since I'm autocrossing Sunday, I'd like to address it now. I also might try to find a longer one locally. I already had the diff inserts before these, and yes, while NVH has increased, this almost sounds like something is either loose or even overtightened. Like I said, when going over uneven road I get a *tink* noise from either or both sides of the rear. It's strange and unnerving. I'm going to work on the car today and hopefully fix it. Could also be my rear brakes since I just worked on those but I'm not sure. Will report back. Thanks
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:14 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexEight View Post
Hey guys I installed these over the weekend and everything went fine except I ended up cross-threading the passenger rear bolt... Should've looked for other instructions instead of just following Whiteline's, these are better.

Anyway, I have an issue now where I get this *tink* noise whenever I turn and/or go over like little potholes. It's definitely coming from the rear. It kinda sounds like that tight metal noise you get when tightening lug nuts. I double checked that everything is tightened down and also the lug nuts were tight but the noise remains. Perhaps I didn't put enough grease? Any other ideas? Thanks
So I got a long tap and a new bolt and fixed that one corner that I cross threaded. I'm still getting the "tink" noise on some bumps though. Any ideas?
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:23 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexEight View Post
So I got a long tap and a new bolt and fixed that one corner that I cross threaded. I'm still getting the "tink" noise on some bumps though. Any ideas?
I just put these in today and if i didnt know better, I'd think it was a power mod! So much easier to rotate too!

As to the noise (if it's still happening), check the plastic cover that you had to remove from the passenger side to remove the top two bolts in this pic. It's held on with clips. I had to remove two of the clips in order to pull the cover back far enough to get to the bolts. When I put everything back together, I forgot one of the clips. The plastic would tap where the clip was missing and it sounded just like what you describe. It only did it over rough road or potholes. I hope this helps. 😎

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Old 12-19-2017, 08:25 PM   #63
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First, thank you for the excellent post.
Second, there seems to be a discrepancy between the torque specs in this thread (see picture in prior post) and what Whiteline says here.
Anyone know which is correct?
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:49 PM   #64
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First, thank you for the excellent post.
Second, there seems to be a discrepancy between the torque specs in this thread (see picture in prior post) and what Whiteline says here.
Anyone know which is correct?
hmm good point, normally i'd go off of the factory manual, which was what i did when i installed mine the other day.

buttt i would say that when I removed the bolts, they definitely didnt feel like 107lbft to me
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Old 12-20-2017, 02:06 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes View Post
hmm good point, normally i'd go off of the factory manual, which was what i did when i installed mine the other day.

buttt i would say that when I removed the bolts, they definitely didnt feel like 107lbft to me
I thought the same thing. And the smaller ones sure didn't feel like 54.
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Old 12-25-2017, 04:32 PM   #66
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Do you know what's really awesome? Reading all these posts on how easy it is when I can't even get the fucking thread started again. Now my car is undriveable how am I supposed to get to a shop? Just kill me. Never believing a diy again. Wasted so much money on torque wrenches and sockets

edit: I did it, but I'm going to leave my rage for all to see. It did not go smoothly. Use a creeper jack to align the subframe with the holes in the chassis. Use the screw jack to support the subframe that comes with your car to get the subframe pressed up against the chassis. God damn it that was frustrating

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Old 12-25-2017, 04:57 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by NRXRaptor View Post
Do you know what's really awesome? Reading all these posts on how easy it is when I can't even get the fucking thread started again. Now my car is undriveable how am I supposed to get to a shop? Just kill me. Never believing a diy again. Wasted so much money on torque wrenches and sockets
Yeah I had serious issues too... When taking the bolt off it lifted the body of the car off the subframe. Like wtf? You may be able to limp it to a shop if you can get the rest of the bolts in.

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Old 12-26-2017, 03:08 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by NRXRaptor View Post
Do you know what's really awesome? Reading all these posts on how easy it is when I can't even get the fucking thread started again. Now my car is undriveable how am I supposed to get to a shop? Just kill me. Never believing a diy again. Wasted so much money on torque wrenches and sockets

edit: I did it, but I'm going to leave my rage for all to see. It did not go smoothly. Use a creeper jack to align the subframe with the holes in the chassis. Use the screw jack to support the subframe that comes with your car to get the subframe pressed up against the chassis. God damn it that was frustrating
Quote:
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Yeah I had serious issues too... When taking the bolt off it lifted the body of the car off the subframe. Like wtf? You may be able to limp it to a shop if you can get the rest of the bolts in.

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Yeah it's not mentioned here, but the trick is to level the subframe. If you lower one end, you need to lower the other end the same amount to keep it aligned, since the bushing will fill in the gap plus a little more
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:29 AM   #69
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I'm removing my diff centre to install an LSD. Is this job easier to do with the diff in or out?
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Old 01-18-2018, 03:59 PM   #70
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I'm removing my diff centre to install an LSD. Is this job easier to do with the diff in or out?
No difference I would think
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