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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 09-20-2021, 08:14 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by eman11500 View Post
The damn thing is barely even doing it today now. I launched fine without shudder, but I will go for another drive tonight and try it again if the shuddering comes back.
How is it now?
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Old 09-20-2021, 08:20 PM   #30
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Sounds exactly like my issue after my SC install. Mine was worse on hot days after driving 20 miles or so. I had the shift bushing and trans insert already. I had more than one thing done with my clutch install, but it came on after the whitleline trans insert.
but OP's clutch is stock. He shouldn't have to throw aftermarket parts at it.
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Old 09-21-2021, 09:16 AM   #31
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Its caused by hot spots on the flywheel. You'll ha e to pull it a d get it resurfaced or get a new one
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Old 09-21-2021, 09:42 AM   #32
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Don't do both the perrin and whiteline inserts. It's too much NVH for basically anything but a race setup (at which point you'd probably prefer a solid mount). I still need to get underneath again and remove my whiteline insert (easier to pull it and leave the Perrin, if I were to do it again I'd probably just get the whiteline insert).
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Old 09-21-2021, 03:53 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by jeepmor View Post
Sounds exactly like my issue after my SC install. Mine was worse on hot days after driving 20 miles or so. I had the shift bushing and trans insert already. I had more than one thing done with my clutch install, but it came on after the whitleline trans insert.

I put three whiteline bushing kits in since. Subframe, read diff connection and diff mount bushings. I stll get it, but no where near as bad or often. I'd go for the rear diff connections bushings first, then subframe kit.

I can feel it's from the rear diff bit, the kit stiffens it, but the frequency is still the same when I get it, albeit much rarer now and it holds it to smaller deflections. I was told clutch chatter at the start too, that's not it.
Sorry for the late reply, between work and school I have hardly any time for my car right now.
This post has my issue dialed down to a point. I will definitely get started on bushings first when I get the chance. Weirdly enough, it's only happened to me 1 time since I made this post and it was in the exact conditions you mentioned. At least now I don't feel as crazy.
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Old 09-21-2021, 03:55 PM   #34
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How is it now?
It's happened to me 1 time since creating this post. I drove it like I stole it for about 2 days and the issue seems to subside (or maybe it's just correlation and not causation)
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Old 09-21-2021, 03:58 PM   #35
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part of me wonders if the OP is too nice to his cars and this is a result of not enough of an 'italian tuneup'

sometimes, ya just gotta thrash it!
As of now, thrashing it has somewhat fixed my issue for the time being. I won't lie, I tend to drive more along the lines of a grandpa in this car since it's so slow. Time to get back into the RX-8 mindset I suppose.
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Old 09-21-2021, 04:00 PM   #36
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Don't do both the perrin and whiteline inserts. It's too much NVH for basically anything but a race setup (at which point you'd probably prefer a solid mount). I still need to get underneath again and remove my whiteline insert (easier to pull it and leave the Perrin, if I were to do it again I'd probably just get the whiteline insert).
So should I , or should I not do the insert? I'm somewhat confused
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Old 09-21-2021, 04:09 PM   #37
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So should I , or should I not do the insert? I'm somewhat confused
The insert(s) won't be the solution to the problem.

Separately, if you would like a more rigid drive line to make the power delivery more direct then feel free to do the whiteline or perrin reinforcements. I would not recommend doing both perrin and whiteline as it adds too much NVH (even for people who have a pretty high tolerance for NVH increases).
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Old 09-21-2021, 04:21 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by eman11500 View Post
It's happened to me 1 time since creating this post. I drove it like I stole it for about 2 days and the issue seems to subside (or maybe it's just correlation and not causation)
Rule #1: Don't throw mods at a stock problem.

Thousands of owners are driving around without any issues on a stock drive train. Did the shudder start immediately after the clutch was replaced? If yes, bad parts or, as @Rabrooks reminds us, good parts assembled over a shit surface on the flywheel. I just assumed the flywheel was replaced as part of the job.

If no, well, let's figure out what broke. Do you remember if you got the clutch hot at any time? Brand new friction disc takes a bit to break in. Maybe shitty flywheel surface didn't immediately rear its ugly head because the disc was still brand new and fuzzy.

Just focus on what changed. Don't get distracted by shiny fun parts.
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Old 09-21-2021, 04:48 PM   #39
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Rule #1: Don't throw mods at a stock problem.

Thousands of owners are driving around without any issues on a stock drive train. Did the shudder start immediately after the clutch was replaced? If yes, bad parts or, as @Rabrooks reminds us, good parts assembled over a shit surface on the flywheel. I just assumed the flywheel was replaced as part of the job.

If no, well, let's figure out what broke. Do you remember if you got the clutch hot at any time? Brand new friction disc takes a bit to break in. Maybe shitty flywheel surface didn't immediately rear its ugly head because the disc was still brand new and fuzzy.

Just focus on what changed. Don't get distracted by shiny fun parts.

Good point. Shudder did not start immediately, probably a month or two after. As far as heat, I haven't smelled anything at all while driving so I can only assume the clutch never overheated. Maybe the flywheel? (edit: pretty sure the flywheel was replaced as well)

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Old 09-21-2021, 06:38 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by eman11500 View Post
As of now, thrashing it has somewhat fixed my issue for the time being. I won't lie, I tend to drive more along the lines of a grandpa in this car since it's so slow. Time to get back into the RX-8 mindset I suppose.
well, that's a good start!

imo, i think this clearly identifies the problem as a surfacing issue instead of something else in the driveline causing a similar symptom.

first step ought to be confirming if the flywheel was replaced or resurfaced.

after that, if you're good enough with a clutch that you minimally slip it(which means that it really never got any significant heat into it), the bedding idea that was nearer the beginning might be worth a shot. otherwise, you'll likely be looking at separating the transmission again to do flywheel resurfacing, or replacement.
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Old 09-21-2021, 07:11 PM   #41
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well, that's a good start!

imo, i think this clearly identifies the problem as a surfacing issue instead of something else in the driveline causing a similar symptom.

first step ought to be confirming if the flywheel was replaced or resurfaced.

after that, if you're good enough with a clutch that you minimally slip it(which means that it really never got any significant heat into it), the bedding idea that was nearer the beginning might be worth a shot. otherwise, you'll likely be looking at separating the transmission again to do flywheel resurfacing, or replacement.
I'll reach out to the mechanic tomorrow and see if he has any paperwork from the job. Unfortunately it wasn't a commercial mechanic and he did it "under the table" so there's not much of a record in means of receipts/ itemized invoices.

As far as trying to bed in the clutch, how exactly should I go about doing that? Hard slip the clutch at a higher RPM and then re-engage as soon as it drops and hold it for a while? Or should I just hard slip and give it some oomph a couple times?

I apologize for my lack of knowledge, being a (retired) mustang driver I'm used to my problems being solved with either a hammer or more throttle.
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Old 09-21-2021, 07:32 PM   #42
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i honestly don't know. the point of bedding brake pads is to heat them and the rotors up to a specific point to cause an even distribution of friction material across the entire rotor surface. a pulsating brake pedal indicates that the friction material is not spread evenly across the surface-- comment methods to correct are to either replace the rotors, or re-do the bedding procedure.

so i googled it...

this basically says everything we already know, but doesn't really help:
https://www.australianclutch.com.au/...lutch-shudder1

this video basically says to do everything you already did, but warns that slipping, or running the clutch hard without those soft stop and go miles will glaze it. so i'm hesitant to say that the clutch needs to be bedded like brake pads where you would intentionally slip it to build up heat...

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