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Old 11-28-2020, 02:59 AM   #1037
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I'm currently customizing my Harrop supercharger before installing it. Getting ready to paint the raised lettering to match the body color and maybe something special to really set it out from the crowd.

Question: Are all of the kits sold in the States missing the Harrop logo that's supposed to be front and center on the top of the blower?
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Old 11-28-2020, 03:53 AM   #1038
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I'm currently customizing my Harrop supercharger before installing it. Getting ready to paint the raised lettering to match the body color and maybe something special to really set it out from the crowd.

Question: Are all of the kits sold in the States missing the Harrop logo that's supposed to be front and center on the top of the blower?


The Harrop logo is just laser etched/burned through the paint, it isn't raised lettering like the Supercharger text. If I was to guess I'd say the unit might have had a coating defect and was resprayed by Harrop after assembly. The logo wouldn't have been redone as that is done in the final machining/cleanup. That being said contact Harrop AU via email and they will likely be more than happy to send you an embossed logo you can place on your trunk or air box.
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Old 11-28-2020, 11:48 AM   #1039
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The Harrop logo is just laser etched/burned through the paint, it isn't raised lettering like the Supercharger text. If I was to guess I'd say the unit might have had a coating defect and was resprayed by Harrop after assembly. The logo wouldn't have been redone as that is done in the final machining/cleanup. That being said contact Harrop AU via email and they will likely be more than happy to send you an embossed logo you can place on your trunk or air box.
Actually, I've got an idea for a custom engine badge that I'm thinking of placing right at that location, but I need to know how thick the casting is there to determine whether or not I can drill and tap some shallow holes in order to fasten a badge in place.
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Old 11-28-2020, 02:25 PM   #1040
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I'm currently customizing my Harrop supercharger before installing it. Getting ready to paint the raised lettering to match the body color and maybe something special to really set it out from the crowd.

Question: Are all of the kits sold in the States missing the Harrop logo that's supposed to be front and center on the top of the blower?
Mine has the etching.

It is probably as thick as the runners—maybe 3-5mm guessing. Look inside the runners, inside the temp sensor or inside the MAP sensor location to estimate the thickness. You could remove a small layer of material and epoxy it on if you were set on it.

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Old 11-28-2020, 02:57 PM   #1041
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Mine has the etching.

It is probably as thick as the runners—maybe 3-5mm guessing. Look inside the runners, inside the temp sensor or inside the MAP sensor location to estimate the thickness. You could remove a small layer of material and epoxy it on if you were set on it.

Yeah, I might have to give Harrop AU a buzz to get the information on the casting thickness. Epoxy might work, but stainless steel countersunk machine screws would look better and allow for easy removal if I ever decide to change it up.

I see that you sanded your raised letters as well. Do you have the same issue with flaws in the casting on the lettering?

I originally wanted to just sand the paint off and use Shark Hide to protect the aluminum, but then I saw the flaws and decided it would look better to paint them Firestorm Red to match the body color and to hide the flaws. Did you use anything to protect the bare aluminum?
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:28 AM   #1042
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Yeah, I might have to give Harrop AU a buzz to get the information on the casting thickness. Epoxy might work, but stainless steel countersunk machine screws would look better and allow for easy removal if I ever decide to change it up.

I see that you sanded your raised letters as well. Do you have the same issue with flaws in the casting on the lettering?

I originally wanted to just sand the paint off and use Shark Hide to protect the aluminum, but then I saw the flaws and decided it would look better to paint them Firestorm Red to match the body color and to hide the flaws. Did you use anything to protect the bare aluminum?
Definitely call.

When you say flaws, do you mean edges that are uneven from the crinkle paint or a low letter? I think the edges weren’t perfect and one letter was lower than the rest, but I sanded them low enough to get an even effect.

I left them raw. Aluminum oxidizes and then it doesn’t corrode or anything, so there is no need to paint it unless you want.
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Old 11-30-2020, 11:22 AM   #1043
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Definitely call.

When you say flaws, do you mean edges that are uneven from the crinkle paint or a low letter? I think the edges weren’t perfect and one letter was lower than the rest, but I sanded them low enough to get an even effect.

I left them raw. Aluminum oxidizes and then it doesn’t corrode or anything, so there is no need to paint it unless you want.

The flaws I'm talking about can be seen below. The top, left corner of the H, and the G, E and D in that particular picture are most noticable. I've got some fine point grinding stones for my Dremel tool that I can use to further grind out the factory paint from the flaws, that will help make them less visible if I apply Shark Hide, but I think the lettering will still look a lot better in red.

Aluminum forms a chalky residue over time, that is the oxidation (which IS corrosion) that I want to avoid. Shark Hide metal protectant is designed to prevent that, but it's clear, so it won't hide the flaws.
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:35 PM   #1044
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The flaws I'm talking about can be seen below. The top, left corner of the H, and the G, E and D in that particular picture are most noticable. I've got some fine point grinding stones for my Dremel tool that I can use to further grind out the factory paint from the flaws, that will help make them less visible if I apply Shark Hide, but I think the lettering will still look a lot better in red.

Aluminum forms a chalky residue over time, that is the oxidation (which IS corrosion) that I want to avoid. Shark Hide metal protectant is designed to prevent that, but it's clear, so it won't hide the flaws.


Yeah, I may have sanded down a similar spot with a Dremel, but mostly I just sanded it low enough to remove any pits or imperfections. Honestly, I can't remember. I wasn't looking to make it perfect. Just pop a little more.


I think we are talking about two different things. Aluminum oxide forms almost instantly and protects the surface from corrosion, which is what I was talking about. What you are talking about happens over much more time, and it may be simpler to run some Mother's aluminum polish and protectant over it once every few years than painting it, but it is entirely up to you.


http://www.cabuk1.co.uk/FAQ%207%20Ox...0aluminium.pdf


https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101.../dp/B0009H519Y
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Old 12-26-2020, 08:05 AM   #1045
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Hi @Bodalenko just wondering what size pulley you have and what header you are using?
Using an Australian designed and manufactured Sydney Motorsport Engineering (SME) EL header. Pulley is 85mm. I have FlexFuel. Also running the fluidampr..
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Old 01-04-2021, 07:15 AM   #1046
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Using an Australian designed and manufactured Sydney Motorsport Engineering (SME) EL header. Pulley is 85mm. I have FlexFuel. Also running the fluidampr..
Thanks for the reply

How do you find the SME header?
Is it the 3” one?
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Old 01-04-2021, 07:17 AM   #1047
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Just wondering if anyone can help me.

Is it necessary to run a catch can with the Harrop on the 95mm or 90mm Pulley?
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Old 01-04-2021, 09:32 AM   #1048
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Just wondering if anyone can help me.

Is it necessary to run a catch can with the Harrop on the 95mm or 90mm Pulley?
You don't need to run a catch can at all. It can help keep the IC clean but isn't
"necessary".
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Old 01-05-2021, 09:06 AM   #1049
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You don't need to run a catch can at all. It can help keep the IC clean but isn't
"necessary".
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Old 01-05-2021, 09:19 AM   #1050
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Just wondering if anyone can help me.

Is it necessary to run a catch can with the Harrop on the 95mm or 90mm Pulley?
I run one with my Harrop, and I think its worthwhile, as a small amount of oil does accumulate in it... (and its probably better there than running through the SC unit).
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