Question about torque wrench usage.

[btan219]

Looking to buy a torque wrench so I can accurately tighten the bolts I'll be working with. The maintenance I plan on doing are: oil changes, transmission oil, rear differential oil, and tires.


This is going to be my first time buying a torque wrench and I'm not very knowledgeable about tools so I had a couple of questions before I make my purchase to make sure I have everything to do all of my oil and tire changes.


I currently have this tool box which has a 3/8" drive ratchet, and 14mm (for oil change) and a 10mm (for trans/rear diff) drive sockets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EMKLDG...ing=UTF8&psc=1


I'm looking to buy this torque wrench: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU...v_ov_lig_dp_it


but it is an 1/2" drive wrench and my drive sockets are 3/8" so I should get this adapter so I can use my drive sockets with the torque wrench? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIZ86HW...v_ov_lig_dp_it


And I've read one of the bolts for rear differential/transmissions requires a hex socket and i was looking to buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKLA8U...v_ov_lig_dp_it


I'd use one of the adapters from above on my 3/8" wrench so I can use the 1/2" hex bit drive socket.


Do I have everything correct, or am I missing something?


Also, do they sell individual drive sockets to connect to the 1/2" torque wrench for tire lug nuts? I've tried searching for 12x1.5 drive socket couldn't find anything.


Thanks!

[Ultramaroon]

The adapters you seek are shown right at the bottom of the page. I suggest a quick trip to a decent hardware or auto parts store and just browsing around for ideas. At your level, I guarantee it will be worth it.


I don't see a breaker bar on your shopping list. I don't like the style suggested on that page. I've easily bent one. Look for something like this one. Notice the difference in the head.


Also, you're referring correctly to the size and pitch of the fastener. Keep in that habit. However, that M12x1.5 hex head acorn nut uses a 19 mm socket. Get a deep well (long) style. It'll help you keep from scratching your wheels and fenders.

[humfrz]

Congratulations on wanting to learn how to do basic maintenance on your vehicle.

My advice on tool purchases is that for your average shade tree (garage) weekend mechanic, you don't need the most expensive tool on the shelf. Something between Snap-On and Kmart will do nicely.

I reckon the same goes for a torque wrench, after all, you're not building a rocket ship.

I have a torque wrench around here somewhere, the last time I used it was to tighten the head bolts on a 1948 Chevrolet. Over the years, most people can look at a fastener and get a pretty good idea of how tight "tight-enough" is. The longer you "wrench" the more calibrated your wrist will become.

Parting hint: NEVER trust a jack - always have a back up in place.


humfrz

PS - as far as ol @Ultramaroon 's recommendation for a breaker bar …. keep in mind he is a BIG guy and given that breaker bar, he could most likely turn over a tank if he could find a big enough of bolt on it ..

[Stang70Fastback]

Since we are on the subject of breaker bars, DO NOT use your torque wrench as a breaker bar, or to loosen bolts. Use it ONLY to tighten bolts to a torque value within the range of the bar. Anything else will damage it.

[Ultramaroon]

Don't listen to old @humfrz. He learned wrenching from his drinkin' buddy, Bubba. Now, ol' Bubba liked to think his hands were calibrated but every time he tightened down a fastener, he tightened just a little bit too much. That's why his nuts and screws always seemed to strip out after the fifth or sixth time he tightened them.


Use a torque wrench.

[Spuds]

I just have a Harbor Freight clicky torque wrench. Works fine for me. My opinion, you only really need to get within +-10% of the specified torque values in most automotive applications. Any brand of wrench will get you there if you treat it right and don't abuse it. Looks like that tekton torque wrench will be fine for what you need. I'm pretty sure I have that exact set of adapters you linked, and they work great.

I find a good sturdy ratchet and a rubber mallet is enough for breaking everything under the car free. I wound up needing an impact driver and associated bits for removing wheels. Saves a TON of time over a breaker bar/tireiron, and you don't need to stop the wheels from turning.

As for tightening drain plugs, I just tighten until it's firm with a regular ratchet. If it doesn't leak, and you can get it off again...

Edit:. Oh! And a magnet on a stick. You don't realize how important it is until you need it. Like I just found out today... Not really necessary for oil changes and such, but you will need it one day.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Don't listen to old @humfrz. He learned wrenching from his drinkin' buddy, Bubba. Now, ol' Bubba liked to think his hands were calibrated but every time he tightened down a fastener, he tightened just a little bit too much. That's why his nuts and screws always seemed to strip out after the fifth or sixth time he tightened them.


Use a torque wrench.

Yep, @btan219 , to clarify, it's a good idea to use a torque wrench when you start out wrenching. That's the way you calibrate your wrists...

Of course some of us "learned" the calibrations the hard way. If it's in July and you are in a hot hayfield on the back 40 and you break a part on the hay baler and have to fix it before the due sets in on the hay, you learn to do it right the first time. You walk back to the barn, dig through wooden fruit boxes and coffee cans of old rusty bolts or nuts till you find a replacement.

After walking back to the field, you replace the broken bolt/nut and you learn "tight-n-niff" real quick or you have to rinse and repeat …


humfrz

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by Spuds

I find a good sturdy ratchet and a rubber mallet is enough for breaking everything under the car free. I wound up needing an impact driver and associated bits for removing wheels. Saves a TON of time over a breaker bar/tireiron, and you don't need to stop the wheels from turning.

As for tightening drain plugs, I just tighten until it's firm with a regular ratchet. If it doesn't leak, and you can get it off again...

Edit:. Oh! And a magnet on a stick. You don't realize how important it is until you need it. Like I just found out today... Not really necessary for oil changes and such, but you will need it one day.

100% right on.
Drain plugs you don't really need to torque them down. But you do need a torque wrench for other stuff.

What every dude/chick should have is a nice beefy 1/2" torque wrench that can go more than 130ft/lb. and a 3/8" small torque wrench that reads "inch"/lbs.

Also make sure you know the difference between inch/lbs and ft/lbs call out. Last thing you want to do is use your brand new 1/2" torque wrench on the oil drain plug and set it for 50ft/lbs. that's a sure way to strip out the threads.

[CB750F]

You may want to look into a fumoto valve too, quicker , less messy

http://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?...modelId=524299

[carsebuco]

Originally Posted by CB750F

You may want to look into a fumoto valve too, quicker , less messy

http://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?...modelId=524299

I have these on, and if you thought oil changes on the triplets couldn't get any easier from stock, you'll laugh maniacally the first time you use this.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by carsebuco

I have these on, and if you thought oil changes on the triplets couldn't get any easier from stock, you'll laugh maniacally the first time you use this.

Can confirm, I laughed maniacally the first change after I installed it.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Can confirm, I laughed maniacally the first change after I installed it.

But that's because you're a maniac, not because of the valve.


Mwah ha ha haaaa!

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

But that's because you're a maniac, not because of the valve.


Mwah ha ha haaaa!

Can confirm, I laugh maniacally at many things. Including, but not limited to: fancy drain plugs, cheese

[Capt Spaulding]

I wouldn't skimp too much on the torque wrench. I have, I guess, four or five. The school I went to used the same curriculum as Humfrz. We used (and sometimes cursed) the "Armstrong" torque wrenches most of us had. In addition to farm equipment, however, I spent a lot of years working on 60s and 70s vintage Japanese and British motorcycles. As a general rule the fasteners were soft and the cases softer. The cost of breaking a bolt in a blind hole or stripping that hole could be pretty high. I have a nice collection of heli-coil sets in 5 to 10mm as a legacy. So, I torque fasteners more often than not.

I suggest eventually acquiring a 1/4" drive 20-140 inch/pound, a 3/8" 5-75 ft/lb, and a 1/2" 20-150 ft/lb. An 18" breaker bar is nice as is are sets of square drive allen and torx sockets and duplicate sets of your most used box/combination wrenches.

I have several air impacts but a decent electric one can will do, and can be a big time/aggravation beater. Just don't use it to tighten anything.

A couple of things I use a lot are a good cordless drill/driver and a set of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3...2542/100495100

I have them in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" and they are great for running a bunch of bolts/nuts down finger tight before you torque them.