Uneven camber with the camber plates maxed.

[bhmax]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

My car also pulls to the left when accelerating and once off the gas it shoots back to the right and straightens out. This is after my alignment.

I briefly had tires on the rear of the car that were the same make and model, but one had a good bit more tread. The mismatched circumference made the same thing happen to me.

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by churchx

They certainly should have done better job on with toe, especially in rear. No wonder car with flooring or releasing gas turns a bit. Think of toe as presteered wheels to (toe-in) or from (toe-out, negative values) from centerline. Giving some beans, mass transfer to back, where one of wheels is more turned. Total track also doesn't look to me straight.
But wait, initially you mentioned -4 & -3.2 front camber. Did you dialed in more camber by yourself after this? Great chance to make alignment even worse, if done not on rig or with some extra measurement tools to show result of changes.

-4 camber was before the alignment

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by Tristor

Good advice, but if you notice he is on 18x9.5" wheels with 225 section width tires. Sounds like this guy is focused on going full stretched tire tilty boi, so I don't think he is worried about having things like traction or even tire wear or endangering others on public roads.

Goin for a slight stretch and a nice stance

[churchx]

Better leave out stretch and stance from this, probably more alignment related, thread? "slight" & "nice" differs a bit for ones that care how car handles/performs over arguable looks.

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by churchx

- I wouldn't ever guide when aligning, just by position on camberplates. There are some variances between cars/parts, slack of mounts/bushings and as result more then possible differences between what is "max", "min" or specific position in between.
- Do camber on camber rig, where you see what alignment really is and dial to what you want to get to get those measurements right/even, ignoring, "what's measured on plates".
- Camber may naturally increase also from extra (driver's) weight. Usually way less then 0.8dg for you though, imho more like 0.1-0.2dg. But if one is anal about that, one may ask suspension techs to dial alignment while one sits in car.
- IF you have checked that tire pressures are even, and IF camber is even (as per alignment rig results, not by "maxed out") i'd suspect toe being out of whack / not even side to side or toe not properly set to track straight front vs rear. Worth remembering that on our cars changing toe changes also camber and vice versa, so hopefully they didn't just dial toe, and then separately camber, ignoring changes to toe from camber adjustment. But first thing i'd check (simplest/quickest/for free) would be tire pressures and if tires are mounted right (if tires are directional) on wheels.
- btw, do you track car? -3, -4 .. camber sounds way too much for car IF that is only daily driven (0 to -1.5dg for camber sounds more reasonable for DD use). One may have more grip when cornering very hard and fast (if on public roads, then usually that means one most of a time going way above speed limits / hooning / endangering self & others) with more static camber, but this is too much for just daily driven. As side ill-effects for too much camber for driving type there might be less grip in wet/worse grip in straight line/car more tending to follow longitudinal road groves, and uneven tire wear (inside edge).

I don’t track my car. My car is just really low and I need to have some camber to fit the wheels

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by churchx

Better leave out stretch and stance from this, probably more alignment related, thread? "slight" & "nice" differs a bit for ones that care how car handles/performs over arguable looks.

Yeah this is more of an alignment thread

[ls1ac]

Hey, the guy set you up for a clockwise circle track. Stand on the gas and up the track you go, take your foot off and dive for the corner. {Although usually done with stagger.}

[tyler_win_photo]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

I don’t track my car. My car is just really low and I need to have some camber to fit the wheels

Maybe something that would be easier next time around would be to get wheels that fit. So your alignment isn't compromised. Not that I'm a big stance person or anything but you don't necessarily need camber for a nice stance.

[Tristor]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

Goin for a slight stretch and a nice stance

I'm legit trying not to be rude, but if you didn't want to compromise how your car drives you should probably reconsider the path you're headed down. You might try starting at Will this fit? (width, offset, and tire size Qs) to get a different set of wheels and tires that properly fit and then go get a proper street-oriented alignment.



If your objective is a stanced out appearance with stretch tires on big wheels, then I guess by all means go for it, but you need to understand your car is going to drive like shit like that. Your issue in this thread can be corrected by backing off from max camber on your plates and getting your toe adjusted out by someone that knows how to do an alignment, but even then on the street you're going to have a rougher time driving.


At this point, the stance scene isn't even unique, it just makes you look dumb.

[Leonardo]

What model/brand of 225/40/18 do you have on your 18x9.5 +22 wheels?


Besides BC coils: what other suspension parts do you have installed?


I am not a Suspension GURU, but from what I understand the more you lower the car, the more parts are needed to keep it driving ok. Like adjustable endlinks for swaybars, adjustable rear toe arms, adjustable trailing arms etc...

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

What model/brand of 225/40/18 do you have on your 18x9.5 +22 wheels?


Besides BC coils: what other suspension parts do you have installed?


I am not a Suspension GURU, but from what I understand the more you lower the car, the more parts are needed to keep it driving ok. Like adjustable endlinks for swaybars, adjustable rear toe arms, adjustable trailing arms etc...

Bridge stone. Everything else is stock suspension wise besides the coilovers

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by Tristor

I'm legit trying not to be rude, but if you didn't want to compromise how your car drives you should probably reconsider the path you're headed down. You might try starting at Will this fit? (width, offset, and tire size Qs) to get a different set of wheels and tires that properly fit and then go get a proper street-oriented alignment.



If your objective is a stanced out appearance with stretch tires on big wheels, then I guess by all means go for it, but you need to understand your car is going to drive like shit like that. Your issue in this thread can be corrected by backing off from max camber on your plates and getting your toe adjusted out by someone that knows how to do an alignment, but even then on the street you're going to have a rougher time driving.


At this point, the stance scene isn't even unique, it just makes you look dumb.

I like how it looks. But if the alignment is good enough the should be able to drive straight. I understand the ride quality isn’t gonna be the same.

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

Bridge stone. Everything else is stock suspension wise besides the coilovers

I don't know how low you actually are, but I am guessing that you don't have much shock travel left. At this point the OEM suspension is past the point in its height usage range to function properly.

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

I don't know how low you actually are, but I am guessing that you don't have much shock travel left. At this point the OEM suspension is past the point in its height usage range to function properly.

I can’t seem upload a picture but if you want you can check my instagram @fr_steez