Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by robwbright

I have the cable for the OFT connected to the port but nothing is connected to the cable. Can that create a draw?

no

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by TM

My battery couldn't start the car for the first time. I have the system installed for about 7 months now.

It was 65 degrees two days ago, drove fine to and from work. 35 degrees yesterday, didn't really drive that much - only to pick up take out (down the block) and to the gym (~5 miles each way), cranked fine.

This morning, I couldn't start the car. Around ~27-29 degrees. The battery had enough juice to lock/unlock the car and turn on all the electronics. It would only crank once or twice and then die. After several more attempts, it wouldn't crank at all. I turned off the heater/AC, seat warmer, ESC, and anything else with an off button; still wouldn't crank. Had to ask my buddy come and jump my car - started up fine instantly after attaching the jumper cables.

My car barely had enough power to start the other day. And the temperature was about 70 degrees. The problem was the trunk was agar overnight. Almost drained the battery completely.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by TM

My battery couldn't start the car for the first time. I have the system installed for about 7 months now.

I've had no trouble starting my car in the last few weeks where morning temps are in the upper 20's and lower 30's. And my batteries are over a year old now.

Suggestions, turn off accessories prior to shutting down the car. You'd be surprised how much current the HVAC blower and amps draw. Also, if you have automatic headlights, make sure they don't come on before starting the engine. Make sure that the ESC is not armed prior to start. These small steps could be the difference between starting and not.

I haven't needed to do any of the above and I get good starts. This makes me think that you might have some type of parasitic loss.

[WNDSRFR]

While we're on the subject of batteries:
First I was wondering if anyone has replaced their dump pack yet. How about you Fenton? I think you've had the ESC the longest. Are you still using the original dump pack? I know batteries don't last forever.


My other question is: Has anyone been on the Phantom website lately? Rob has one of the dump batteries listed as a Big Crank ETX18L. It costs $92.95.
What is this? That's not the kind of batteries I have. Is it better than the old one? It better be, it costs a lot more.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

While we're on the subject of batteries:
First I was wondering if anyone has replaced their dump pack yet. How about you Fenton? I think you've had the ESC the longest. Are you still using the original dump pack? I know batteries don't last forever.


My other question is: Has anyone been on the Phantom website lately? Rob has one of the dump batteries listed as a Big Crank ETX18L. It costs $92.95.
What is this? That's not the kind of batteries I have. Is it better than the old one? It better be, it costs a lot more.

Secret project maybe?

[jwvand02]

Originally Posted by TM

My battery couldn't start the car for the first time. I have the system installed for about 7 months now.

It was 65 degrees two days ago, drove fine to and from work. 35 degrees yesterday, didn't really drive that much - only to pick up take out (down the block) and to the gym (~5 miles each way), cranked fine.

This morning, I couldn't start the car. Around ~27-29 degrees. The battery had enough juice to lock/unlock the car and turn on all the electronics. It would only crank once or twice and then die. After several more attempts, it wouldn't crank at all. I turned off the heater/AC, seat warmer, ESC, and anything else with an off button; still wouldn't crank. Had to ask my buddy come and jump my car - started up fine instantly after attaching the jumper cables.

I had the same problem yeaterday. It was about 25F and it only turned over once or twice.

I had all the electrical stuff on, will make sure I turn it off and check the posts too.

[WNDSRFR]

I had a compressor stall this morning. Only the second time it's ever happened to me but it gets your attention. My timing was off at this yield sign and I had to brake to yield to a car then I immediately stepped on the gas in second gear at about 1000 RPM and the car stalled. DON'T DO THIS!
It could potentially be very bad for the motor.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

While we're on the subject of batteries:
First I was wondering if anyone has replaced their dump pack yet. How about you Fenton? I think you've had the ESC the longest. Are you still using the original dump pack? I know batteries don't last forever.


My other question is: Has anyone been on the Phantom website lately? Rob has one of the dump batteries listed as a Big Crank ETX18L. It costs $92.95.
What is this? That's not the kind of batteries I have. Is it better than the old one? It better be, it costs a lot more.

More news on those batteries soon

I'm still running the standard 1.5 and they are still in perfect condition. These batteries can handle a lot of cycles.

[predator800]

Sorry if this a stupid question but would anything bad happen if you hit the rev limiter during full boost? Reason I'm asking is this car will be driven by the whole family. When kids drive sh** happens.


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[fenton]

Originally Posted by predator800

Sorry if this a stupid question but would anything bad happen if you hit the rev limiter during full boost? Reason I'm asking is this car will be driven by the whole family. When kids drive sh** happens.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not as far as damage to the compressor. When the car hits redline the throttle body will open and shut... During this time if you are boosting the compressor will surge against the closed throttle body. The compressor has no problem handling this but the car doesn't like it.... It can almost feel like a stall. Same basic thing happens if you get side ways with boost while traction control is on.

Both have happened to me multiple time and everything is fine.... It's just not the nicest feeling.

If your wondering... the car will go rich during this time.... The maf meters the boosted air but not all that air gets into the combustion cycle.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by predator800

Sorry if this a stupid question but would anything bad happen if you hit the rev limiter during full boost? Reason I'm asking is this car will be driven by the whole family. When kids drive sh** happens.


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PS....you must be a nice dad if you let your kids drive your sports car

[predator800]

Thanks for the reply. Kind of hard to say no to a $30 000 dollar car when they ride my $22 000 dollar sled. I would have said no to my older two kids that are grown up now. The younger two are much more responsible. You'll see when yours is a young adult, you may have a change of heart. They grow up fast.


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[fenton]

Originally Posted by predator800

Thanks for the reply. Kind of hard to say no to a $30 000 dollar car when they ride my $22 000 dollar sled. I would have said no to my older two kids that are grown up now. The younger two are much more responsible. You'll see when yours is a young adult, you may have a change of heart. They grow up fast.


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I can totally understand that. Its like I'm in a time warp and mine is only 6months.

[Target70]

Originally Posted by fenton

Not as far as damage to the compressor. When the car hits redline the throttle body will open and shut... During this time if you are boosting the compressor will surge against the closed throttle body. The compressor has no problem handling this but the car doesn't like it.... It can almost feel like a stall. Same basic thing happens if you get side ways with boost while traction control is on.

Both have happened to me multiple time and everything is fine.... It's just not the nicest feeling.

If your wondering... the car will go rich during this time.... The maf meters the boosted air but not all that air gets into the combustion cycle.

was kind of curious about this in the form of FFS. It is currently set too high for me right now, but when I tried it, (besides bouncing off the limiter at 6500, it really helps the performance of the ESC without that whole "off switch slow down, on switch spool up cycle" between each gear, especially if running to redline where spool up takes almost 1k revs of the ~5k to 7k power band.