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Old 01-16-2021, 01:29 AM   #4005
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Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
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I run 5w30 because Subaru uses it in all forced induction applications. 0w20 is like water when hot and is for fuel economy. Oil cooler if you are maintaining spirited intensity or higher intensity for a long time. Even higher weight oil if the car was a more dedicated track car, especially turbocharged, like 40 or 60 weight. Is it necessary? That is the question.
I use 5W30 Motul 300V in my turbocharged brz. My turbo is oil cooled (not water cooled like most kits: jdl, ptuning etc.).

Cooling the oil is far more important than the weight you choose.

I don't ever see over 225F oil temp.

My car is at ~64k miles, still on the original engine, and is used mainly for track/canyon driving, and driving to/from venues/shops. I don't do much commuting in it at all; I have other cars for that. The car as many class/platform records, as well as championship wins.

Just one data point, but imo, a particularly strong one.
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Old 01-16-2021, 03:43 AM   #4006
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
I use 5W30 Motul 300V in my turbocharged brz. My turbo is oil cooled (not water cooled like most kits: jdl, ptuning etc.).

Cooling the oil is far more important than the weight you choose.

I don't ever see over 225F oil temp.

My car is at ~64k miles, still on the original engine, and is used mainly for track/canyon driving, and driving to/from venues/shops. I don't do much commuting in it at all; I have other cars for that. The car as many class/platform records, as well as championship wins.

Just one data point, but imo, a particularly strong one.
Right. It is more anecdotal, but a good rule. There is an application for everything or everyone. Some might not have their cooling up to par; better safe than sorry. Some might desire some extra protection when ambient temperatures and humidities get higher than their setup can tolerate. Some may find that they will over-cool the car with an aggressive cooling setup for daily driving year round, so they may choose to add a heavier weighted oil when it is time to go to the track instead. If anyone is doing endurance racing over short sprints then they might choose more protection from a heavier weight oil; we see heavier weight oils in 24 Hour of Lemans, for instance. If someone has a higher mileage vehicle with loosening tolerances then they may want a heavier weight oil. Some may prefer to stay as light as possible, instead of taking a weight penalty by adding a larger radiator, external oil cooler, ducting, etc, even if the higher viscosity might reduce horsepower. 10w60 is used below. I'm not saying it is needed. I'm saying, there are applications for heavier weight oils.

https://racing.tgr-europe.com/wp-con...anual_EN-1.pdf

I'm happy with my 5w30 Signature Series oil from AMSOIL. Good enough. Cheap enough. American made.
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Old 01-17-2021, 09:46 AM   #4007
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Hi,
I'm in the process of buying a used Edelbrock kit.
Could you advise me on the things I need to check before purchasing and various parts (like gaskets) I should buy for a clean and proper install?
Thank you.
Plus, has anyone tuned their kit with OFT?
Thanks²
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Old 01-17-2021, 10:45 PM   #4008
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Another random question... is anyone running a lightweight battery with this kit? Does it hold up ok? My stock battery died, so was thinking of going with a Braille 14115 (11.5 lbs) to help counteract the weight I added with the supercharger...

I assume it takes a little more to crank the engine with the SC... and there is the water pump for the SC cooling system that runs after the car is turned off.... so is a smaller battery a bad idea? I was originally going to get a Duralast gold but then noticed it was 7.5 lbs heavier than stock. The only thing I don't like about the Edelbrock kit is the extra weight which I can definitely feel in corners. So reducing that as much as possible would be nice.
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Old 01-18-2021, 08:08 PM   #4009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wil View Post
Hi,
I'm in the process of buying a used Edelbrock kit.
Could you advise me on the things I need to check before purchasing and various parts (like gaskets) I should buy for a clean and proper install?
Thank you.
Plus, has anyone tuned their kit with OFT?
Thanks²
I'll save you some trouble...
  1. O-Ring Lube: (Your choice)
  2. Subaru Fuel Line disconnect tool: 42099AE000
  3. Fuel Line banjo bolt crush washer PN: 17555AA040 (Subaru)
  4. Clutch Slave Cylinder crush washers (Qty2) PN: 114130151 (Subaru)
  5. MAF O-Ring: Buna Nitrile H2.00 X 22
  6. Intake Manifold Gaskets (Qty2) PN: 14035AA610 (Subaru)

Just use ECUtek, you already saved money by purchasing used anyways. Don't cheap out on the most important thing IMO.

Last edited by ninjan00dles; 01-26-2021 at 10:24 PM. Reason: updated
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Old 01-18-2021, 09:51 PM   #4010
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At some point edelbrock changed the intake to no longer require the sealing grease. I think they no longer recommend it because it can gum up the MAF.... but not sure if the part number for the filter changed or not.
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:55 PM   #4011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR-ZED View Post
At some point edelbrock changed the intake to no longer require the sealing grease. I think they no longer recommend it because it can gum up the MAF.... but not sure if the part number for the filter changed or not.
Good heads up, it’s mentioned in my install guide. I will call them
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Old 01-19-2021, 05:30 AM   #4012
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Originally Posted by ninjan00dles View Post
I'll save you some trouble...
  1. K&N sealing grease for air intake box PN:99-0704
  2. O-Ring Lube: (Your choice)
  3. Subaru Fuel Line disconnect tool: 42099AE000
  4. Fuel Line banjo bolt crush washer PN: 17555AA040 (Subaru)
  5. Clutch Slave Cylinder crush washers (Qty2) PN: 114130151 (Subaru)
  6. MAF O-Ring: Buna Nitrile H2.00 X 22
  7. Intake Manifold Gaskets (Qty2) PN: 14035AA610 (Subaru)
  8. Injector O-Ring/Spacer Kit PN: GB Remanufacturing 8024A


I'm not 100% certain if the injector o-ring kit I list above is for the manifold location injectors but it was $7 for 4 kits from Rock Auto. If I remember I will post back if they are correct. The Edelbrock instructions say to just reuse and relube the original seals if you can. The Subaru parts diagram confused my small brain so I didn't purchase OEM for those.

Just use ECUtek, you already saved money by purchasing used anyways. Don't cheap out on the most important thing IMO.
Thank you so very much!
You're mentioning an install guide. Where can I find it?

Plus, it it that bad to tune with the OFT?
My goal is rather simple and conservative: 260hp at first. I just want something ultra safe to start with.

Last edited by Wil; 01-19-2021 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 01-19-2021, 02:31 PM   #4013
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Originally Posted by Wil View Post
Thank you so very much!
You're mentioning an install guide. Where can I find it?

Plus, it it that bad to tune with the OFT?
My goal is rather simple and conservative: 260hp at first. I just want something ultra safe to start with.
https://edelbrock-instructions-v1.s3...brock/1556.pdf

Who will tune it for you on OFT?
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Old 01-19-2021, 03:12 PM   #4014
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Originally Posted by BR-ZED View Post
At some point edelbrock changed the intake to no longer require the sealing grease. I think they no longer recommend it because it can gum up the MAF.... but not sure if the part number for the filter changed or not.
You are correct, Edelbrock no longer recommends using the sealing grease. They also told me their new kits will have a dry air filter instead of a wet air filter.

The wet air filter oil will potentially contaminate the MAF sensor and cause drivability issues.

Edelbrock support told me you can use a K&N degreaser to remove the oils from your wet air filter if you don't want to purchase a new dry filter. They said that a dry filter will have a lighter color on one side. A wet filter will be the same color on both sides and will have oil on it (of course).
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Old 01-19-2021, 10:43 PM   #4015
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so they say you can just run a wet K&N filter dry? that doesn't sound right.
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Old 01-20-2021, 02:07 AM   #4016
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so they say you can just run a wet K&N filter dry? that doesn't sound right.
That’s what they told me. I have a dry filter anyways but wanted to pass that info along. You could always email/call them if you don’t trust the information, they have excellent customer support
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Old 01-20-2021, 05:22 AM   #4017
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Since you seem to be quite knowledgeable on the matter, could you recommend some reliable folks, ahah?
I was thinking about Shiv or Wayno.

Or https://www.facebook.com/STAutosport, only Belgian dudes I know who tune on OFT.
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Old 01-20-2021, 11:58 AM   #4018
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Totaled my car with a nasty sideswipe. No engine damage or anything like that, so I'm having the shop that did my install do a back-to-stock before insurance collects the car. Any tips for what to do before selling the kit?

What can I do to bolster confidence in a potential buyer when I say that I'm selling a used kit because I totaled my vehicle? She runs like a dream and hasn't given me any trouble in ~12k miles, but I know hearing that would probably make me nervous. I've thought about making a video of cranking the car, letting it warm up, then a few idle revs. Can't drive it because I smacked the rear wheel pretty good and most likely caused some problems in the rear diff.
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