Forced Induction Buyer's Guide | $5,000 +/- (otd) | Daily Driver Spec

[nelsonzep]

Here is a build i have done quite a bit of research on which would be very safe for a lot more power than stock.
estimated around 450 hp not sure about tq

Kraftwerks supercharger C38-81 kit w/ tune or Jackson Racing kit TIY- $5095/3995
Fidenza aluminum flywheel - $321.14
Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft - $421.99
Delicious tuning E85 + tune - $695 + $450
Deatshwerks 700cc injectors - $329.95
Perrin light weight crank, alternator, and water pump pulley - $287.10
AEM 310 LPH fuel pump - $129
Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can PCV Side - $195
full nameless 3" exhaust - $3000

Total cost = $10924.18/$9824.18

The reason these are some of the best modifications you can do in conjunction to the SC kit it self is because the E85 will help get you much more power and do so with much cleaner emissions (if E85 is available around you). The pulley's, driveshaft, and flywheel help a LOT with reducing rotational mass which makes the parasitic effect the SC has much much less + more torque the driveshaft/flywheel can handle over stock. The injectors and fuel pump will also show a much bigger increase in power and are E85 compatible of course these are completely optional but when going with boost you should really look into upgrading the fuel system. This specific kit was chosen because it comes with the intercooler, independent drive belt which greatly improves reliability, also a 4 bar map sensor, and complete intake system. where most other kits do not come with these things and they are only available options. Every option listed is to get the most out of your SC while knowing the dependability is going to be what a DD would need, of course everything i have listed is to squeeze the most out of the kit and be dependable enough for DD with out opening the engine block up. There is of course the bare essentials to just be DD dependable which would be as follows.

Biggest difference in the jackson racing TIY and Kraftwerks kits i have listed are the blowers are different sizes (kraftwerks bigger), Jackson racing is Carb certified (but Kraftwerks has options for exact same blower which means the carb certification should not make a difference on actual emissions), Kraftwerks has independent drive belt which means this is more reliable if something were to go wrong. Jackson racing has 3 year warranty.

Kraftwerks supercharger C38-81 kit w/ tune or Jackson Racing TIY - $5095/3995
Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can PCV Side - $195
Delicious Flash and go tune - $375
Ectek cable + license (only for JR kit) - $650
total = $5665/$5215

*Reason i listed both kits is because they both have own intercooler, intake, and have options for use of same blower.

[Bramick]

Originally Posted by nelsonzep

Here is a build i have done quite a bit of research on which would be very safe for a lot more power than stock.
estimated around 450 hp not sure about tq

Kraftwerks supercharger C38-81 kit w/ tune or Jackson Racing kit TIY- $5095/3995
Fidenza aluminum flywheel - $321.14
Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft - $421.99
Delicious tuning E85 + tune - $695 + $450
Deatshwerks 700cc injectors - $329.95
Perrin light weight crank, alternator, and water pump pulley - $287.10
AEM 310 LPH fuel pump - $129
Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can PCV Side - $195
full nameless 3" exhaust - $3000

Total cost = $10924.18/$9824.18

The reason these are some of the best modifications you can do in conjunction to the SC kit it self is because the E85 will help get you much more power and do so with much cleaner emissions (if E85 is available around you). The pulley's, driveshaft, and flywheel help a LOT with reducing rotational mass which makes the parasitic effect the SC has much much less + more torque the driveshaft/flywheel can handle over stock. The injectors and fuel pump will also show a much bigger increase in power and are E85 compatible of course these are completely optional but when going with boost you should really look into upgrading the fuel system. This specific kit was chosen because it comes with the intercooler, independent drive belt which greatly improves reliability, also a 4 bar map sensor, and complete intake system. where most other kits do not come with these things and they are only available options. Every option listed is to get the most out of your SC while knowing the dependability is going to be what a DD would need, of course everything i have listed is to squeeze the most out of the kit and be dependable enough for DD with out opening the engine block up. There is of course the bare essentials to just be DD dependable which would be as follows.

Biggest difference in the jackson racing TIY and Kraftwerks kits i have listed are the blowers are different sizes (kraftwerks bigger), Jackson racing is Carb certified (but Kraftwerks has options for exact same blower which means the carb certification should not make a difference on actual emissions), Kraftwerks has independent drive belt which means this is more reliable if something were to go wrong. Jackson racing has 3 year warranty.

Kraftwerks supercharger C38-81 kit w/ tune or Jackson Racing TIY - $5095/3995
Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can PCV Side - $195
Delicious Flash and go tune - $375
Ectek cable + license (only for JR kit) - $650
total = $5665/$5215

*Reason i listed both kits is because they both have own intercooler, intake, and have options for use of same blower.

Why the Delicious Tuning flex fuel kit vs the Moto-East version?

I'd also suggest a AEM universal AFR failsafe sensor - $300 + a guage mount solution of your choice.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by nelsonzep

Here is a build i have done quite a bit of research on which would be very safe for a lot more power than stock.
estimated around 450 hp not sure about tq

Kraftwerks supercharger C38-81 kit w/ tune or Jackson Racing kit TIY- $5095/3995
Fidenza aluminum flywheel - $321.14
Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft - $421.99
Delicious tuning E85 + tune - $695 + $450
Deatshwerks 700cc injectors - $329.95
Perrin light weight crank, alternator, and water pump pulley - $287.10
AEM 310 LPH fuel pump - $129
Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can PCV Side - $195
full nameless 3" exhaust - $3000

Total cost = $10924.18/$9824.18

The reason these are some of the best modifications you can do in conjunction to the SC kit it self is because the E85 will help get you much more power and do so with much cleaner emissions (if E85 is available around you). The pulley's, driveshaft, and flywheel help a LOT with reducing rotational mass which makes the parasitic effect the SC has much much less + more torque the driveshaft/flywheel can handle over stock. The injectors and fuel pump will also show a much bigger increase in power and are E85 compatible of course these are completely optional but when going with boost you should really look into upgrading the fuel system. This specific kit was chosen because it comes with the intercooler, independent drive belt which greatly improves reliability, also a 4 bar map sensor, and complete intake system. where most other kits do not come with these things and they are only available options. Every option listed is to get the most out of your SC while knowing the dependability is going to be what a DD would need, of course everything i have listed is to squeeze the most out of the kit and be dependable enough for DD with out opening the engine block up. There is of course the bare essentials to just be DD dependable which would be as follows.

Biggest difference in the jackson racing TIY and Kraftwerks kits i have listed are the blowers are different sizes (kraftwerks bigger), Jackson racing is Carb certified (but Kraftwerks has options for exact same blower which means the carb certification should not make a difference on actual emissions), Kraftwerks has independent drive belt which means this is more reliable if something were to go wrong. Jackson racing has 3 year warranty.

Kraftwerks supercharger C38-81 kit w/ tune or Jackson Racing TIY - $5095/3995
Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can PCV Side - $195
Delicious Flash and go tune - $375
Ectek cable + license (only for JR kit) - $650
total = $5665/$5215

*Reason i listed both kits is because they both have own intercooler, intake, and have options for use of same blower.

I just made 382WHP (On a low reading dyno baseline cars run ~135WHP) and I hadn't even finished pushing the ignition on 10-10.5PSI on a GT3076 on STOCK injectors. I'm just sayin... All we had was a DW65C pump in there and the port injectors were @ 49% duty @ E70 and I want to say the DI was at 75-80%.

I don't know why everyone jumps the gun on injectors. I was pushing 22-24PSI on 440CC injectors on my car with a GTX3071 .82 lol... I have FIC1100 now and i run 25-35% duty most of the time with mid teens boost. And I am using a Chinese fuel pump. (Someone sold me a fake DW65 I just never got around to swapping it out).

[nelsonzep]

Originally Posted by Bramick

Why the Delicious Tuning flex fuel kit vs the Moto-East version?

I'd also suggest a AEM universal AFR failsafe sensor - $300 + a guage mount solution of your choice.

well their the same price i just like delicious tuning tune more and thought if you get tune from them why not flex fuel kit as well but they are around same price but moto east comes with actually gauge analyzer + completely forgot about failsafe sensor :P

Originally Posted by nelsmar

I just made 382WHP (On a low reading dyno baseline cars run ~135WHP) and I hadn't even finished pushing the ignition on 10-10.5PSI on a GT3076 on STOCK injectors. I'm just sayin... All we had was a DW65C pump in there and the port injectors were @ 49% duty @ E70 and I want to say the DI was at 75-80%.

I don't know why everyone jumps the gun on injectors. I was pushing 22-24PSI on 440CC injectors on my car with a GTX3071 .82 lol... I have FIC1100 now and i run 25-35% duty most of the time with mid teens boost. And I am using a Chinese fuel pump. (Someone sold me a fake DW65 I just never got around to swapping it out).

only reason i suggest bigger injectors/pump (does not necessarily have to be as big as i have suggested just thought they were a good price) is because there is still a noticable difference in boost with the toyobaru twins when you upgrade the fuel system.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by nelsonzep

well their the same price i just like delicious tuning tune more and thought if you get tune from them why not flex fuel kit as well but they are around same price but moto east comes with actually gauge analyzer + completely forgot about failsafe sensor :P



only reason i suggest bigger injectors/pump (does not necessarily have to be as big as i have suggested just thought they were a good price) is because there is still a noticable difference in boost with the toyobaru twins when you upgrade the fuel system.

Noticeable difference in boost. So your turbo pushes out more air when you add new injectors? This is news to me....

[nelsonzep]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

Noticeable difference in boost. So your turbo pushes out more air when you add new injectors? This is news to me....

not in the boost your turbo is pushing out but in the power your getting from a boosted application

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by nelsonzep

not in the boost your turbo is pushing out but in the power your getting from a boosted application

This is a non factual statement. If you aren't running out of fuel from your fuel system how will adding larger injectors increase the power output of your car? 11:1 AFR is 11:1 AFR regardless of how you get it. The only difference would be atomization and injector open time...

The only rationalization I could see possible is from higher pressure helping with fuel atomization... However you really need a fuel pressure regulator and a return line to get a higher fuel pressure at the rails as this car is a returnless fuel system with a regulator in the fuel tank.

Considering I only run something like 25% of my fuel injection on my personal car from the port injection due to the direct injection allowing me to run more aggressive timing... increasing the size of my port injectors really did nothing at all. I used some FIC1100's just to test how they handled with the ECU since there are some injector timing map issues...

[xxscaxx]

I usually just tend to go with whatever the tuners preference is regarding injectors. But I do agree, a lot of people think more is better, and its certainly not the case. I trust the stock injectors 100x over any aftermarket one and would prefer using stock fueling as much as I could before I HAD to upgrade.

I did upgrade my injectors with my JDL kit but when I was on my Innovate kit I was using the stock fuel pump and injectors.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

I usually just tend to go with whatever the tuners preference is regarding injectors. But I do agree, a lot of people think more is better, and its certainly not the case. I trust the stock injectors 100x over any aftermarket one and would prefer using stock fueling as much as I could before I HAD to upgrade.

I did upgrade my injectors with my JDL kit but when I was on my Innovate kit I was using the stock fuel pump and injectors.

Yeah you really should just go with what your tuner wants you to run... The number of times I get asked on a weekly basis how much power someone will make by upgrading their injectors on random cars is mind boggling. You only make more power when your limited by your injectors, the injectors don't actually increase the power... lol

On this ecu there are a lot of mis-labeled / unidentified maps for injectors so you end up having to do some wonky stuff to get a nice perfect tune. Swapping from one injector to another can throw the tune off even if you have the exact injector data. That and you don't have any reference of fuel pressure so you cant use the OEM logic to calculate the port injection in microlitre's... So a lot of tuners build their maps off one or two sets of injectors with compensation based off of previous experience and prefer to stick to them for that reason. Having a twin fuel injected setup makes tuning "interesting" when the direct injection is fairly consistent and has a compensation system for fuel rail pressure and the port system is just hacked together and has basically no pressure regulation (there is a regulator in the tank that is well... near worthless lol). Hell the stock map isn't even calibrated correctly for the ports to compensate for manifold pressure from the factory... -.-

[King Tut]

Tuning my S2k was the first time I had to mess with injector settings. I bought ID1000s which come with a great chart and it should have been as easy as modifying the voltages and offsets in FlashPro and off I go, but it wasn't. It turns out that Hondata disagrees with what ID1000 reports as correct so you have to add quite a bit to the provided numbers for the injectors to perform properly. With that being said, getting injectors running properly in a tune with the correct settings is not rocket science. It is trial and error, but that trial and error can take awhile and isn't easily done with E-tuning techniques and is much easier with live tuning. When some tuners can't figure out a set of injectors they make bandaid fixes to other maps to get the car to run, but it will never run properly until the injectors are tuned properly.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Tuning my S2k was the first time I had to mess with injector settings. I bought ID1000s which come with a great chart and it should have been as easy as modifying the voltages and offsets in FlashPro and off I go, but it wasn't. It turns out that Hondata disagrees with what ID1000 reports as correct so you have to add quite a bit to the provided numbers for the injectors to perform properly. With that being said, getting injectors running properly in a tune with the correct settings is not rocket science. It is trial and error, but that trial and error can take awhile and isn't easily done with E-tuning techniques and is much easier with live tuning. When some tuners can't figure out a set of injectors they make bandaid fixes to other maps to get the car to run, but it will never run properly until the injectors are tuned properly.

And it is dramatically worse when you have a calibrated DI system on top lol.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

And it is dramatically worse when you have a calibrated DI system on top lol.

That's why you do like James and tune each system individually.

[GsxrMe]

I really don't understand on how to build a safe and street boosted car for a target price of $5000+/-. My goal when I was figuring out how to make my car as safe as I can with 7-10psi without nuking the motor I managed to nearly double my target 5k goal.

I was going to do with a 57trim but seeing the turbo is only oil and not oil and water I picked up a GTX3076r as an upgrade. I believe the trim of the GTX3076r is close to 58. The factory map sensor isn't accurate so I was forced to get a 4 bar to be safe. Oil, Oil, oil, not to get an FBM oil pan was a no-brainer. increased oil capacity + turbo = playing it safe. Now the factory clutch always bothered me because if I grind it just right I need a new transmission, it'll never be the same. So running boost with factory clutch isn't an option. Exhuast, well nameless is outrageously expensive for a header back 3" system so I have a FBM 3" coming.

All that being said I'm currently sitting at $8841. I still need to get gauges, pods, tune and maybe an oil cooler. Again this car will never see a track and will only be used around town or highways. I can kinda see how Subaru never released a boosted BRZ. The price point at the dealer would be so damn high no one would purchase it.


Soon to be a proud warranty void-er of my cars warranty and i'm happy a majority of it went to FBM!

Goal: $5000 +/-
Realistic: 10k +/-

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by GsxrMe

I really don't understand on how to build a safe and street boosted car for a target price of $5000+/-. My goal when I was figuring out how to make my car as safe as I can with 7-10psi without nuking the motor I managed to nearly double my target 5k goal.

I was going to do with a 57trim but seeing the turbo is only oil and not oil and water I picked up a GTX3076r as an upgrade. I believe the trim of the GTX3076r is close to 58. The factory map sensor isn't accurate so I was forced to get a 4 bar to be safe. Oil, Oil, oil, not to get an FBM oil pan was a no-brainer. increased oil capacity + turbo = playing it safe. Now the factory clutch always bothered me because if I grind it just right I need a new transmission, it'll never be the same. So running boost with factory clutch isn't an option. Exhuast, well nameless is outrageously expensive for a header back 3" system so I have a FBM 3" coming.

All that being said I'm currently sitting at $8841. I still need to get gauges, pods, tune and maybe an oil cooler. Again this car will never see a track and will only be used around town or highways. I can kinda see how Subaru never released a boosted BRZ. The price point at the dealer would be so damn high no one would purchase it.


Soon to be a proud warranty void-er of my cars warranty and i'm happy a majority of it went to FBM!

Goal: $5000 +/-
Realistic: 10k +/-

Good job playing it smart. Hopefully the supporting mods you got will help engine longevity.

Also, while a turbo model would have cost more it wouldn't have been anywhere near the additional costs you invested haha. Manufacturers use much cheaper turbos, and rather than having to re buy parts they simply would have been better from the start. Also, after market markup is pretty high as well.

Good luck with the build though man! Good choice going with FB.