FRS FA20 turbo vs FRS lsx/2jz

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by AZFA20

I have about 1500 flawless miles on my LS2 swapped FRS and all I can say is the FA20 can SUCK IT!!!!!

Is your build posted somewhere? I know you have been some what secretive with your swap or am I missing something, from personal experience I dont believe in going FI with the Fa20 in hindsight now. It takes a questionable reliable engine and puts more variables to make it even more questionable.

What fuel pump system are you running in the saddle tank? And do you have problems with tank scavenging, I went with pumps in each side of tank to insure positive feed no matter what the quantity is at.

[PrDarkKnight]

I'll just leave this here: fastest FA20 in the world and now is running mid 9s

This is an older run
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWEzKDXeqL8"]Fiebruz FXXX - World's Fastest FA20 FRS - 10.31 @ 138MPH - YouTube[/ame]

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by PrDarkKnight

I'll just leave this here: fastest FA20 in the world and now is running mid 9s

This is an older run

Reliability on a road course?....Daily drivability?

[hmong337]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

Reliability on a road course?....Daily drivability?

@cf6mech

How much did you end up spending on the boosted and built fa20? Was it comparable to the LS cost wise?

My calculations for getting 400whp out of the fa20 put me in the $15k range. That's studid expensive because you'll need a fully forged "bottom" and worked heads.

I'm guesstimating the V8 swap will be in the $15k range too. That's with an LS1 instead of the L33's too. $5k for engine tranny set, $5 for swap kit, $5k for everything else.

I think this is probably the best route to go if you're chasing reliable power with this car. The 4 banger is just so damn expensive to do up and that's not even including the gearbox which is known to eat itself with not even a ton of power.

If Vorschlag or anybody can get all the stock instruments working like factory, abs, everything and no CEL's, I am SOLD!

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by hmong337

@cf6mech

How much did you end up spending on the boosted and built fa20? Was it comparable to the LS cost wise?

My calculations for getting 400whp out of the fa20 put me in the $15k range. That's studid expensive because you'll need a fully forged "bottom" and worked heads.

I'm guesstimating the V8 swap will be in the $15k range too. That's with an LS1 instead of the L33's too. $5k for engine tranny set, $5 for swap kit, $5k for everything else.

I think this is probably the best route to go if you're chasing reliable power with this car. The 4 banger is just so damn expensive to do up and that's not even including the gearbox which is known to eat itself with not even a ton of power.

If Vorschlag or anybody can get all the stock instruments working like factory, abs, everything and no CEL's, I am SOLD!

It will be turn key done,.....it already has been done by others....fully functioning OEM gauges....price to do a swap has so many variables its hard to determine at this point depending on how much you want or can do yourself and choices in components.....its just a matter of time before more options are out there / competitors kits and ecu/pmc integrations to make things talk to each other.....I'm betting in time this swap will become easier and much cheaper to do......The early adaptors like me are paving the way.

[TylerLieberman]

Plus side to swapping to a different engine is that you can sell the OEM power plant and drivetrain to help offset the overall cost. I wouldn't trust the FA20 in these cars with anything more than 300whp without completely building it.

And that's just the engine. Don't even get me started on the transmission, axles, or the rest of the drivetrain.

[hmong337]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

It will be turn key done,.....it already has been done by others....fully functioning OEM gauges....price to do a swap has so many variables its hard to determine at this point depending on how much you want or can do yourself and choices in components.....its just a matter of time before more options are out there / competitors kits and ecu/pmc integrations to make things talk to each other.....I'm betting in time this swap will become easier and much cheaper to do......The early adaptors like me are paving the way.

Understand about the variations. Just wanted to get a general idea on how close between a 400hp fully built fa20 turbo costs in comparison to a 400hp LSx conversion.

When looking into the 4 banger route, it's like $5k for a built "bottom" and a couple thousand more for reworked heads. Throw another $5k for the turbo kit itself and a few more thousands on misc stuff and you're sitting around the $15k mark on just motor and turbo alone! The weak gearbox is another can of worms and will take tons more money to get sorted if you want any sort of gearbox reliability. The Subaru shit seems like a crazy expensive trap with unknown reliability.

If a reliable 400hp LS conversion costs about the same or less than building a dodgy 400hp capable FA20, it will be the future for this car. As long as it doesn't diminish the incredible handling characteristics the car is acclaimed for.

[AZFA20]

My build isn't really secret but more just a lack on my part of spending any time on the forum to show it off.

Everything works in mine with the exception of ABS and traction control. Traction control I don't really care about but I am working on the ABS.

The car handles as far as I can tell the same as any of my previous setups in this chassis. Mine does retain the factory sway bar location/function although mine has always had Eibach sway bars. The learning curve for handling isn't really anything to do with what I consider minor weight increases but rather the 375ft/lbs. of torque right off idle. I corner balance all my setups anyway so the car maintains 50/50 cross weights.

Wish I woulda just done the swap right out of the gate. 400hp NA stock starting point and 500whp NA with heads, cam, intake manifold, and TB. Whats not to like? Boost down the road and its a total tire slayer (already is to be honest).

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by AZFA20

My build isn't really secret but more just a lack on my part of spending any time on the forum to show it off.

Everything works in mine with the exception of ABS and traction control. Traction control I don't really care about but I am working on the ABS.

The car handles as far as I can tell the same as any of my previous setups in this chassis. Mine does retain the factory sway bar location/function although mine has always had Eibach sway bars. The learning curve for handling isn't really anything to do with what I consider minor weight increases but rather the 375ft/lbs. of torque right off idle. I corner balance all my setups anyway so the car maintains 50/50 cross weights.

Wish I woulda just done the swap right out of the gate. 400hp NA stock starting point and 500whp NA with heads, cam, intake manifold, and TB. Whats not to like? Boost down the road and its a total tire slayer (already is to be honest).

Please show it off....would like to see your set up and cross reference stuff....what your running as far as coil overs.....sway bars ...wheel and tire sizes.

[PrDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

Reliability on a road course?....Daily drivability?

reliability will have a lot to do with how aggressive the tuning is, if you try to squeeze every last hp of the engine reliability and drivability could be compromised so it comes to what are your goals for the car. For the car in the vid, there have been some hiccups, as it would when pushing the limits of a new platform

[drankejackson]

These are the reasons why I bought my FRS.