Cam timing on Dyno

[SpectreRT]

Sorry to bump this again @steve99

You're knowledge has been a great help thus far. I've been logging for 4 days now via ECUTek. My logs show everything is working 100%, no issues what-so-ever.

So it appears the only issue is happening at the shop once they're plugged up and flashing. Seems to me an issue with their equipment and/or ROM being used... or improper flash / post flash procedure.

Any other thoughts or opinions? Thanks again.

Originally Posted by steve99

Hmm im not sure what could be picked up from logs, but if ecuteck can monitor say the ecu commanded position of camms verses the measured position. You might be able to make an educated guess , say if the ecu is asking for 20 degrees and measured its still zero would indicate hardware issue, however i would ecpect that should trigger a cel code.

If the commanded position just stays at zero then maybe that something wierd in ecu hardware or some preset cindition is not being met.

Faults like this are going to be extremly timeconsuming and likely expensive to repair.

One of the TSB for cam issues involves replacing the ecu, its possible that the ecu hardware has a fault.

if you can source a second hand ecu you can replace it as per link below.

you can flash in the required rom calid before syncing to security if needed, im not 100% buy im pretty sure all the ecu are same hardware you just need to flash in correct rom to suit your car, flash it up with tactrix if you have one then you wont need to mess with ecutec licience.

you dont need to chage the vin in ecu for car to run

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

[steve99]

Originally Posted by SpectreRT

Sorry to bump this again @steve99

You're knowledge has been a great help thus far. I've been logging for 4 days now via ECUTek. My logs show everything is working 100%, no issues what-so-ever.

So it appears the only issue is happening at the shop once they're plugged up and flashing. Seems to me an issue with their equipment and/or ROM being used... or improper flash / post flash procedure.

Any other thoughts or opinions? Thanks again.

you guys have traction \vcs turned full off an dyno ? as that may upset things

After any reflash hot or cold you goiung to need to turn ignition fully off after flash.

Then start and let car idle for at least a minute after the idle has settled below about 750 rpm. if your tuner has bumped idle to a high rpm say 1000 it may cause issues not sure.

If that does not work id say turn ignition off , remove battery terminal , press brake pedal, reconnect and start and lket idle for at least a minute at normal idle speed.

after that im pretty stumped unfortunatly

[Kodename47]

If they're flashing via ECUtek, they should always go through the full procedure. Flash > Reset > Clear all DTCs when asked. Then you can fire up the car. Never had an issue with that method.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

If they're flashing via ECUtek, they should always go through the full procedure. Flash > Reset > Clear all DTCs when asked. Then you can fire up the car. Never had an issue with that method.

Agreed,

ive flashed with ecutek and done the full reset dtc clear no issues.

But also flashed with ecuflash\tactrix and Open Flash tablet and never had the issues with cams and they dont clear dtc\reset the other modules in car..
Only time ive had issue is if you dont let it idle for a minute after flash at the base idle speed, its certianly a weird issue.

[SpectreRT]

Thank you both for the replies. This thread has really restored my confidence in the FT86 community.

I believe they had traction off, but not the pedal dance diagnostic mode. I'd like to believe they followed full instruction as they've easily tuned 200+ twins. But I'll be a part of the next attempt to verify.

I'll report back with how this goes. I've been logging every day since my last visit to the shop and VVT / Timing is always spot on. So i'm fully convinced my car has no issues.

Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by steve99

Agreed,

ive flashed with ecutek and done the full reset dtc clear no issues.

But also flashed with ecuflash\tactrix and Open Flash tablet and never had the issues with cams and they dont clear dtc\reset the other modules in car..
Only time ive had issue is if you dont let it idle for a minute after flash at the base idle speed, its certianly a weird issue.

Originally Posted by Kodename47

If they're flashing via ECUtek, they should always go through the full procedure. Flash > Reset > Clear all DTCs when asked. Then you can fire up the car. Never had an issue with that method.

[SpectreRT]

Tuner has the car now, daily driving it was fine. They checked it in the parking lot and it was fine. Put it on the dyno; no go.

Any final options?

[Kodename47]

Just like to bump this. This seems to be more common that I thought, I hear that certain cars require a certain amount of driving before the cams come active.

I have an interesting one now, I have a car that is simply not activating the cams at all. No CEL and no obvious reason why. Usual parameters are working, has anyone managed to locate a list of the actual requirements for activation?

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Just like to bump this. This seems to be more common that I thought, I hear that certain cars require a certain amount of driving before the cams come active.

I have an interesting one now, I have a car that is simply not activating the cams at all. No CEL and no obvious reason why. Usual parameters are working, has anyone managed to locate a list of the actual requirements for activation?

No idea on exact conditions

Other than the 1 minute at normal idle that serms to work in most cases.

Is it possible to load a completly stock rom ??

Maybe try an A01G or I rom incase the newer roms have additional requirements as long as car is not a 2017 red manifold car

If its boosted is it possible that ecu sees positive pressure at idle and this may upset sequence

Else swap in another ecu if you have one,

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by steve99

Is it possible to load a completly stock rom ??

Already done, 3 of them to be exact..... 700G/A00G/A01G. It's originally an A00G before flashing. No bueno. Even had them drive around on those tunes briefly.

Originally Posted by steve99

If its boosted is it possible that ecu sees positive pressure at idle and this may upset sequence

It's running the same SCas me and the same basic tune as mine, runs fine on my car. No positive pressure at idle. It's annoying that we have no idea of how it was running before the tune and the car is in a different country.

I sent the official VVT test process yesterday so will see what the results are.

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Already done, 3 of them to be exact..... 700G/A00G/A01G. It's originally an A00G before flashing. No bueno. Even had them drive around on those tunes briefly.

It's running the same SCas me and the same basic tune as mine, runs fine on my car. No positive pressure at idle. It's annoying that we have no idea of how it was running before the tune and the car is in a different country.

I sent the official VVT test process yesterday so will see what the results are.

Curious if you have gotten anywhere with this? I have the same issue with an NA 2015 brz. No cam control whatsoever no matter what we do. Motec m150 runs the cams just fine though.... so it is probably not hardware though we have tried 2 stock ecus already.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

Curious if you have gotten anywhere with this? I have the same issue with an NA 2015 brz. No cam control whatsoever no matter what we do. Motec m150 runs the cams just fine though.... so it is probably not hardware though we have tried 2 stock ecus already.

It's got to be the checks it does. Have you messed with the O2 sensor.I'm no further with this car however one of the exhaust banks logs 20deg constantly when the other 3 sit around 0. Not sure why this doesn't throw a CEL but I reckon it has to be the issue.

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

It's got to be the checks it does. Have you messed with the O2 sensor.I'm no further with this car however one of the exhaust banks logs 20deg constantly when the other 3 sit around 0. Not sure why this doesn't throw a CEL but I reckon it has to be the issue.

What would you do with the O2 sensor in this case?

I just changed the crank position sensor. No difference...

Why are these cars not throwing ANY codes while the cam control is completely shut off? Is this is terrible programing/design?

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

What would you do with the O2 sensor in this case?

The car validates that it's working in closed loop I believe, ie a natural idle. If you're not having issues with that then I doubt it's that but could be worth validating the front and rear O2 voltages etc. Only a suggestion if you've removed the sensors to fit in a new manifold etc

[laksman91]

Has anyone figured out a solution to this? The Cams turn on when on the road, but wont on the dyno (Dynopak)