Failure After J02 Recall - Discussion Threads

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

Well it looks like I found a 64k mile short block from a 14 FRS. Does anyone know if there is anything that will need to be changed other than new head gaskets and bolts? ECU is the same, etc?

If you are going to go the fix it your self route, I highly suggest skipping a used short block in favor of finding a fully assembled long block/pull out.

If you drove your car with a bearing failure/knocking, it is likely that anything oil touched could be toast. You would potentially need heads/cams, oil pump, and all that to go into the used short lock. This will cost you much more than just buying a pull out.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

If you are going to go the fix it your self route, I highly suggest skipping a used short block in favor of finding a fully assembled long block/pull out.

If you drove your car with a bearing failure/knocking, it is likely that anything oil touched could be toast. You would potentially need heads/cams, oil pump, and all that to go into the used short lock. This will cost you much more than just buying a pull out.

i even had to replace my new oil cooler. Metal in the motor and the whole lower end and any relative parts are toast.

[gravitylover]

I pretty much came to the same conclusion and have stopped looking at short blocks. I've found some nice looking reman, 0 mile long blocks but I'm not sure that's the best way to go either. It certainly isn't the easiest or least expensive. Thankfully I can be kind of patient with this so I can keep looking for a low mileage, used, complete motor. I have a line on one from a side impact wreck so we'll see how that goes. I had a mobile mechanic here at the house yesterday helping me put a band aid on my Durango so I can drive that for a few weeks and he quoted me 7 hours to pull the old motor and install the "new" one right in my driveway so I'm leaning in that direction.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

I pretty much came to the same conclusion and have stopped looking at short blocks. I've found some nice looking reman, 0 mile long blocks but I'm not sure that's the best way to go either. It certainly isn't the easiest or least expensive. Thankfully I can be kind of patient with this so I can keep looking for a low mileage, used, complete motor. I have a line on one from a side impact wreck so we'll see how that goes. I had a mobile mechanic here at the house yesterday helping me put a band aid on my Durango so I can drive that for a few weeks and he quoted me 7 hours to pull the old motor and install the "new" one right in my driveway so I'm leaning in that direction.

Good luck. I wish you the best and that it all works out for you

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by TommyW

i even had to replace my new oil cooler. Metal in the motor and the whole lower end and any relative parts are toast.

Yup, very common on the EJ motors for people "fixing" them to have no idea to replace their factory oil cooler after an engine failure, then have a second engine failure. Have seen it many times by shops/people that have 0 idea what they are doing.

[gravitylover]

Is there a difference between manual and auto motors that would make install more challenging? I keep seeing them advertised as for manual or auto.

[the new guy]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

Is there a difference between manual and auto motors that would make install more challenging? I keep seeing them advertised as for manual or auto.

There is. If you’re doing a swap it’s ideal to get a same model year/transmission engine.

[gravitylover]

I think I want to avoid 13's

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

I think I want to avoid 13's

Try to avoid 13' with recall performed

[gravitylover]

Those seem to cost a lot more than 14-16 motors, the difference is as much as $1k.

[alan.chalkley]

I traded in my 2013 at a local dealer and a few weeks later it was sold to somebody else.
Somehow i still received another recall letter.
It seems that everyone is avoiding the recall the recall!

[cnk]

Yeah, they call me about once every 2-3 weeks and send me an email a month to remind me to get the recall done. Just not going to do it. Not worth the risk at this point in time. Especially since my state doesn't require it for re-inspection.

[finch1750]

Had the recall done early May. Last week the engine began knocking as I headed to Yosemite. Got it towed yesterday and they will begin teardown Friday it sounds like. They have already agreed to cover repairs and a rental car if its due to excessive sealant. Will update next week hopefully

I was around 3500 miles post recall.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Had the recall done early May. Last week the engine began knocking as I headed to Yosemite. Got it towed yesterday and they will begin teardown Friday it sounds like. They have already agreed to cover repairs and a rental car if its due to excessive sealant. Will update next week hopefully

I was around 3500 miles post recall.

Well, THAT sucks -