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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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04-22-2020, 11:29 PM | #29 |
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When you price out everything you will actually need it ends up being more like 10k to boost your car. You will need the SC, EcuTek license/tune, oil cooler, clutch, clutch fork, catch can, engine mounts, gauge mounts, gauges, and labor to install it all. When you have spent that much it only makes sense to do headers and exhaust, too. And there is a lot more you could do to make it truly reliable.
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04-22-2020, 11:50 PM | #30 | |
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4k turbo 1k tune. At 7-9psi with 91-93octane will run 240-270whp depending on combo. With no other supporting mods needed. Those are all good added insurance for reliability especially if tracking. But for a DD to do a few hwy pulls. You really don’t need anything else. 3-400$ for oil cooler 1-150$ for catch can if you want to drive harder for longer on the street. People would be surprised how easy it is to DIY this if they just tried, most kits of simple step by step instructions. |
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04-23-2020, 12:06 AM | #31 |
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04-23-2020, 01:29 AM | #32 | |
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Hi. You know, only you can make this decision. Nobody is going to understand from a forum post what makes you tick, what makes you happy, what's worth it to you, etc. You know all the variables, no one else. The worst thing to do is get paralysis over it and do nothing. Life is too short to waste being a mess over procrastinating supercharging and dumping money into a s-box car or moving on to a different platform. Both could end up the right answer. Both could end up the wrong answer. It depends only on you. But, moving forward with something is almost always better that procrastinating to that point. Reading your thoughts, it doesn't sound like heavy investment and modifications to a cheap DD vehicle, and any perceived reduction in reliability as a result, are your thing. And if you are in a position to have to pay someone everytime something goes wrong, or you don't enjoy the occasional issue as a fun weekend (or late night after work) project to diagnose, it may be better for you to move onto a different platform and gamble that the OEM reliability you get will be better. The 86 isn't anything special. There are lots of fun, OEM cars out there to replace it. But this is all up to you. For me, I bought the entry level 86 as my DD with the plan to extensively modify everything and knowing it could lead to engine, trans or other major failures. It's all ok with me because cars to me are a life-long love and hobby. If and when the motor blows, I will build it to handle more power. This is the way I am, I know it well and nobody else could answer what is right for me or change my mind. I am now in my entry level 86 $20k deeper than when I bought it used. Could I have bought a more expensive normal DD like 99% of people in LA driving around in entry level C, 3 or P cars for the same cost as what I have in the 86 now, of course. Would I have been happy, no. Thats because I know what makes me tick. I preferred to build soemthing different and build the exact car I wanted. And the 86 was the right base for me. Regarding " upgrading cars", my other DD street car is a C6z06. It makes 600hp with minimal mods. It also has basic suspension and brake mods. Realistically, the day I bought it stock, it could have been called "done". Stock, it did everything better than the modded 86, and now modified, the modded 86 has even less chance. It gets more looks, more thumbs up and more conversation at the pump, if that is something an owner wants from a car. The only thing the 86 does better than the Z06 is pull into a parking spot faster. Wait, actually it does do something better. It continues to provide me a long list of fun and rewarding projects to keep me occupied, get my mind off life's other stresses and teach my 11 year old (who is now an Initial d maniac and wants an AE86). So while my entry level Toyota 86 will never "out brake", never "out handle", never "out accelerate" my "better" z06, to me, it's maybe even more fun than the Z for what makes me tick. So bottom line here, only you know what's right for you to do. You seem to love cars and finding out where you get the enjoyment from them is what's important. Sorry for the long rant, in the past I used to struggle with the same things. |
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04-23-2020, 08:32 AM | #33 | |
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Well, OK, you got me there. Raptor it is, at least until the US Space Force takes delivery of their first X-301!
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04-23-2020, 08:36 AM | #34 | |
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So his project is about earning enough money to pay for all he mods and stuff necessary for a performance car. His free time is for other things like golf. He can feel good that he is good at his real job and leave the wrenching to the pros. Where as my project is about learning how to do new things and improving the car little by little (sometimes worse!). This is one of my hobbies and I get that added benefit of feeling good about accomplishing something on my own. Some people argue over built vs bought, but honestly that’s just BS. It’s about your personality, skill set and how you want to spend your limited time and money. So which project do you want? |
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04-23-2020, 10:14 AM | #35 | |
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04-23-2020, 10:59 AM | #36 |
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04-23-2020, 12:49 PM | #37 |
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ever heard of the consistent issue they had with one of the engines freezing at altitude while going something like 3200 mph, causing a snap spinout, making the pilot's head hit the inside of the canopy so hard that they passed out?! The main test pilot went out to investigate for himself and surely enough, it spun out, he banged his head and blacked out but regained consciousness before crashing. Balls of steel going up there to trigger something like that on purpose lol
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04-24-2020, 12:47 PM | #38 |
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Old engine was stock, edelbrock supercharger with stock pulley, DW700 injectors, Delicious tune, Ace A350 header, CSG exhaust, Delicious E85 conversion, Setrab oil cooler. Died while on cruise control on the interstate around 70-75 mph. Short block was entirely unsalvageable.
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04-26-2020, 09:06 PM | #39 |
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I second this. Ace headers and a tune and call it a day. I went Edelbrock on my car; worked well, I did some things that made it even better. The extra power was great but like someone said above you don't use it very often. Good headers get you at least half way there for less than half the price with none of the concerns about installing a window in the block.
Edit: I somehow seconded a post from the second page Last edited by toast; 04-26-2020 at 10:43 PM. |
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04-28-2020, 10:48 AM | #40 |
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I've been boosted for nearly 3 years now and at first I felt like you did but now I have no regrets plus a short block and a gently used transmission isn't that expensive at all. I also spent a whole lot less than most people who boost their cars for everything yet I thought that would destroy me for going cheap.
SBD400x 4th of July 2017 sale installed and dyno tuned new was $3900 otd! Magnaflow CB $575 on sale new Tanabe catless FP $125 on sale new Tsudo OP $70 new Varis vented hood with NACA duct $700(2k new) used. P3 Boost guage $200 used(400 new) JDL oil cooler $400 used(675 new) Radium CC $250 July will make 3 years reliably boosted and I redline the thing everyday. |
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04-28-2020, 12:43 PM | #41 |
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Following this because I'm in a similar situation. Thanks to Z06 and Ernest for sharing their thoughts. There are definitely different type of car people. I'm one of the people that doesn't really enjoy "tinkering". I also don't mind paying somebody else to do the work. The end result is what I'm after.
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04-28-2020, 01:15 PM | #42 | |
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It's all about doing things without shortcutting, and considering if youre just "bolting on parts" or extensively modifying and trying to look at things from an OEM reliability perspective. |
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