P0016 on a 60k mile car

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by steve99

I dont think so.


Way to test would be to get one of the ecu from a car thafs had cam issues then use that ecu in a knwn good car jist reflashed to correct calid

Originally Posted by rusty959

I haven't been keeping up with this thread so I may have missed something, but if anyone wants to test this, I'd probably give up my original ECU. Still haven't sold my BRZ but I don't much have a use for my old one.

@steve99, could you flash rusty's ECU with your Aussie ROM? I'd try it but would want you to talk me through every step with my Tactrix. I'm too chicken otherwise.

[steve99]

F

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

@steve99, could you flash rusty's ECU with your Aussie ROM? I'd try it but would want you to talk me through every step with my Tactrix. I'm too chicken otherwise.

Yeah sure can all the ecu are same hardware,



If your car is 2012-2016 manual you can just flash in an A01G rom with tactrix no need to hack or mod anything Just use native A01G and A01G definition to flash or edit with ecuflash or romraider.


All the new V4 oft roms for those years are all actually A01G but they need to do a bit of calid hacking to get oft to accept different rom. With tactrix you can jist flash it in it doesnt care.


You can even use your car as a test bed to flash, you dont need to sync ecu to car to flash it.


So if you got rustys ecu just remove battery connection, crawl under dash with spare ecu and just swap the four connectors into his ecu is possible to slide the second ecu next to original so cables reach.


The reconnect battery and flash up the second ecu, if all dandy then you can just sync in the new ecu by looping 4-13 on obd for 30 mins.


The start car and your on new ecu.


No need to set vin or other stuff. The hardest bit is crawling under dash






To switch back same deal battery disconnect, swap ecu plugs, attach battery, loop 4-13 , ignition on, wait 30 mins. Ign off remove loop. Your good to go on old ecu

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by steve99

Yeah sure can all the ecu are same hardware,

If your car is 2012-2016 manual you can just flash in an A01G rom with tactrix no need to hack or mod anything Just use native A01G and A01G definition to flash or edit with ecuflash or romraider.

@rusty959, do you still have my address?


I'll just take all your broken shit.

[10Tim]

Urghh, I too am having this nightmare -- P0018 --. I have read every post in all 27 pages of this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed. So far I have...


Swapped OCV's from left side to right side. Checked plunger piece on cam gear (the part the OCV moves) All plungers moved freely and easily. Erased code. Drove car twice, short distances, low rpm (not over 3,500). Code returned on second drive -- P0018 --


Removed driver side cam sensor (no shim present). I found a small amount of soot on the side of the sensor near the bottom, but not on the surface that faces the cam plate. I then cleaned and measured sensor as described in the TSB. I then measured the distance from cam cover surface to cam plate in all three locations of the cam plate as described in TSB. Found one measurement to be .002" out of spec. Distance of cam sensor to cam plate should be .049" to .052", my closest measurement was .047", not much, but still. Decided to clear the code now that the soot was removed and drive it again. Drove car as described above, code returned -- P0018 --


I then decided to remove the passenger side cam sensor. No shim was present. Cleaned and measured sensor (exact same as driver side sensor) and measured cam cover to cam plate. It was found to be within spec at .050" I then swapped cam sensors from side to side (intake sensors only). Then cleared the code and drove car as described above, code returned -- P0018 --.


At this point I'm planning to purchase the shim kit and use the .002" shim on the drivers side. I'm not optimistic this will cure the problem, but I feel I must do my due diligence to eliminate all possibilities before going into the motor for the cam gears themselves.


Urghhh. This sucks, and I know I'm not the only one. I track and know many fellow owners here in So Cal. I'm finding more and more about this problem as it is frustrating for loyal owners/enthusiasts.



I will do my best to follow up...

[kinghurl]

Please do keep us posted. It will be interesting to learn how your shim swap goes. I don't think we've seen anyone here, for whom the shim swap worked. It would be of interest to see your results.

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[rusty959]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

@rusty959, do you still have my address?


I'll just take all your broken shit.

I do still have it. I can go ahead and send it over as long as nothing is done to it that would definitely destroy it, just in case something weird happens to my car before I sell it. (I've been doing a bad job of keeping it listed and had it priced too high for awhile so it hasn't sold yet)

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by rusty959

I do still have it. I can go ahead and send it over as long as nothing is done to it that would definitely destroy it, just in case something weird happens to my car before I sell it. (I've been doing a bad job of keeping it listed and had it priced too high for awhile so it hasn't sold yet)

Cool. If it still holds any value for you, hang onto it. We can always wait for someone else's out-of-whack ECU.

BTW, parts of your VVT assemblies are on their way to Belgium to rescue another owner's engine. @faninos

[10Tim]

So, I received the shim kit from Toyota. Shimmed the cam sensor on the intake to be within spec according to the TSB. Erased the code on the ECU and drove the car as described in my earlier post. On second drive cycle the code returned, P0018. I really didn't have high hopes the shim kit would be the answer, but I want to follow proper procedure.


Next on the list is replacing the cam gear. I figure if I'm going to go in there, I might as well replace both intake cams at the same time. I don't want to get a P0016 sometime down the road and be pissed I didn't do both.


After that, I'm also fairly certain I will also need to replace the ECU to fully resolve this issue, as that is what I have been reading on this issue.


I'm both pissed off and bummed about this whole thing. I take good care of my car and this sucks to have to deal with!

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by 10Tim

So, I received the shim kit from Toyota. Shimmed the cam sensor on the intake to be within spec according to the TSB. Erased the code on the ECU and drove the car as described in my earlier post. On second drive cycle the code returned, P0018. I really didn't have high hopes the shim kit would be the answer, but I want to follow proper procedure.


Next on the list is replacing the cam gear. I figure if I'm going to go in there, I might as well replace both intake cams at the same time. I don't want to get a P0016 sometime down the road and be pissed I didn't do both.


After that, I'm also fairly certain I will also need to replace the ECU to fully resolve this issue, as that is what I have been reading on this issue.


I'm both pissed off and bummed about this whole thing. I take good care of my car and this sucks to have to deal with!

General rule of thumb, if you're replacing timing gears, replace them all, and the chains.

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[10Tim]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

General rule of thumb, if you're replacing timing gears, replace them all, and the chains.

I know. However my engine only has 26,000 miles, and I'm willing to bet when I pop it open there will be very minimal wear. I honestly believe this is a design flaw and not a wear issue, and I'm trying to minimize cost.


However, that being said, I know what you are saying is true and it cuts into me all the more.

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by 10Tim

I know. However my engine only has 26,000 miles, and I'm willing to bet when I pop it open there will be very minimal wear. I honestly believe this is a design flaw and not a wear issue, and I'm trying to minimize cost.


However, that being said, I know what you are saying is true and it cuts into me all the more.

Best/easiest way to change the sprockets is pulling the engine. You can do without pulling it. It's it's far more difficult. Your call. I already had to do all of this

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[Second Nature]

Originally Posted by ermax

Isn’t P0018 the VVT sensor? Wouldn’t you swap the VVT sensor to troubleshoot that rather than the OCV?

Noob question, but what exactly does the sensor look like?

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by Second Nature

Noob question, but what exactly does the sensor look like?

[Second Nature]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

So I just swapped the position sensors and drove around and shut off the engine 5 times. So far the CEL has not shown up. Vs earlier today I swapped the OCVs and the error light came back after one restart. We’ll see what happens tomorrow but fingers crossed...

When you swapped the sensors and OCV Did you swap them with the ones right under them or did you replace it? Looking to do this on my FRS I’m pulling up a p0018. Out of warranty here.