Final Drive Discussion

[SpectreRT]

Originally Posted by fika84

The type of cut is the same as OEM. Look at them side by side, exact same cut, different number of teeth to create different ratio.

Its very close, but not 100% the same I imagine. I'll get my OEM 4.1 out of storage later and measure for pictures. I measured the Weir before installation; but was too lazy to cross compare.

Videos to come later; ended up drinking the last few days. My bad for the delay.

[SpectreRT]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

Weir 4.88 also has a small sound to it. 18 months of street driving and 13 track days (2h to 3h of track time per track day) tells me that the sound is normal, since oil doesnt come out with metal pieces and the sound hasnt changed at all during this time.

For the most part, if your noises are consistent; you're good to go. If new noises appear or randomly go away -- something isnt right.

[fika84]

Originally Posted by SpectreRT

Its very close, but not 100% the same I imagine. I'll get my OEM 4.1 out of storage later and measure for pictures. I measured the Weir before installation; but was too lazy to cross compare.

Videos to come later; ended up drinking the last few days. My bad for the delay.

Also have to remember that the measurements can't be far off since they both use the same bearings and shims. Not much room for design modifications.

[modbus]

Help! I want to order a FD but can't decide.

I've got a MT that I want to keep NA. I will not be doing E85 in the foreseeable future. I've got stock wheels and Michelin Pilot Super Sports in stock tire size and plan on staying this way as well.

The car is my DD, and I have a different car I can use for road trips. Should I go 4.88 or is 4.56 much safer? I do about an even three-way of city-highway-freeway driving, and usually I never cruise above 75mph, more typically 65, which I calculate will be ~4000rpm on the 4.88. Is this bad? The 4.56 would be ~3700RPM.

Any input is appreciated.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by modbus

I've got a MT that I want to keep NA. I will not be doing E85 in the foreseeable future. I've got stock wheels and Michelin Pilot Super Sports in stock tire size and plan on staying this way as well.

The car is my DD, and I have a different car I can use for road trips. Should I go 4.88 or is 4.56 much safer? I do about an even three-way of city-highway-freeway driving, and usually I never cruise above 75mph, more typically 65, which I calculate will be ~4000rpm on the 4.88. Is this bad? The 4.56 would be ~3700RPM.

Any input is appreciated.

On your final drive question, 4.55 or 4.88 will only drop the whole range of gears, so your top gear will be shorter, so the fuel cosumption will decrease. It will only feel livelier but not in all gears since we are just dropping the shipt points lower...but not increasing the power to the output. So it's a choice. I would leave it alone if I was you since it really doesn't make the car any faster in all places. Just in someplaces, and in other places, slower.

[churchx]

Pitty close-ratio gearsets are nowhere near as cheap as FD. Though even better would be such gearset (with longer 1st & 2nd) AND different FD.

[Imranman]

Originally Posted by #my86build

I just had my Cusco 4.556 installed a couple of weeks ago. Here are the parts my local shop used in the installation. No new noises to report on mine. That could be the due to fact that it is a Toyota part, it could be the shop that installed it or it could be both. I would also recommend shopping around. I believe FT-86 Speedfactory has theirs marked up $200 USD more than where my shop ordered mine from.

1) Toyota Diff Washer Plate $13 CAD #90201-35518
2) Toyota Diff Case Seal x2 $15.40/per CAD #90311-38070
3) Toyota Diff Shims x2 $18.92/per CAD #90564-46043

So is this all that's needed to install an mfactory 4.67? I'm kind of a noob with FD and my mechanic told me to get everything required.