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10-18-2018, 07:45 PM | #15 |
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10-18-2018, 07:49 PM | #16 | |
6/22/12-2/6/24
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Quote:
stick that between the brake light and the window
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10-18-2018, 07:57 PM | #17 | |
Financial Distress
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The Following User Says Thank You to scottryan For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (10-19-2018) |
10-18-2018, 08:43 PM | #18 |
Rust bucket enthusiast
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Took the door panels off and covered the window switches in electrical tape (wish I had a photo but I don't). Also tapes together any loose wiring in the doors and re-sealed the weatherproofing plastic. I put Roxul insulation in my trunk where the spare tire was as a test, significantly lowered road noise from behind the driver's seat.
The window switches were the biggest to-do, I'd recommend the mod to anyone with electrical tape and a screwdriver |
10-19-2018, 12:00 AM | #19 |
義理チョコ
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I tighten shit when it gets loose.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | humfrz (10-19-2018) |
10-19-2018, 01:50 AM | #20 |
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Yep, I've heard about your garage - I'll bet you do have the tool for the job -
humfrz |
10-19-2018, 03:04 AM | #21 | |
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2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
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10-19-2018, 09:47 AM | #22 |
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This is what I have done for metro Detroit roads:
1. Anti-rust coating on the bottom. Helps a little, but still, helps. (Anti-rust foaming inside doors, etc., might help more though). 2. Put a spare wheel (usually a winter wheel during summer, or a summer wheel during winter) or some dead weight in the trunk. That way your TPMS won't light up while on aftermarket wheels either. |
10-19-2018, 10:36 AM | #23 |
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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10-19-2018, 10:39 AM | #24 |
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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10-19-2018, 01:00 PM | #25 | |
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Choosing parts that have a tiny bit of compliance make a big difference, like using OE or Group N Top hats instead of camber plates. I found that doing the whiteline positive shift kit, and rear subframe bushings really helped with some of the rear end clunks, drivetrain shudder and wheel hop that was annoying and noisy.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JazzleSAURUS For This Useful Post: | StraightOuttaCanadaEh (10-19-2018) |
10-19-2018, 05:08 PM | #26 |
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I get a weird rattle/squeak from the top dash speaker panels. I believe its rubbing against the plastic a pillar cover, as it seems to stop if I put pressure on either panel. I wedged a ranger band that I cut in half in between the panels and it seems to have stopped it.
For those that don't know, ranger bands are just thick black rubber bands; I have the rear deck rattle (i think) but I haven't fixed it yet. I don't mind minor vibrations or cabin noise so much, but rattles and squeaks for loose fitting panels or other things really bother me. Makes me feel like the car is falling apart.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JeremyR For This Useful Post: | Bonburner (10-19-2018) |
10-19-2018, 06:53 PM | #27 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to why? For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (10-19-2018) |
10-19-2018, 07:11 PM | #28 |
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My 2013 FR-S doesn't have, nor ever has, any squeaks or rattles (that I can hear at least - ).
However, if it did, I would put someone behind the wheel to drive and I would go "hunting" with a spray can of silicone, a long, thin screwdriver and a roll of black electrical tape. humfrz |
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