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Old 10-18-2018, 07:45 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
It's got a catted Magnaflow exhaust, the vibrations are loud from coming from inside the cockpit, probably the 3rd brake light vibrating against the rear window?
Well, Bubba says to stick a sock behind it -


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Old 10-18-2018, 07:49 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
It's got a catted Magnaflow exhaust, the vibrations are loud from coming from inside the cockpit, probably the 3rd brake light vibrating against the rear window?
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-...-ft-l--268-050

stick that between the brake light and the window
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:57 PM   #17
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https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-...-ft-l--268-050

stick that between the brake light and the window
Thanks bro that's actually really helpful, appreciated!
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:43 PM   #18
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Took the door panels off and covered the window switches in electrical tape (wish I had a photo but I don't). Also tapes together any loose wiring in the doors and re-sealed the weatherproofing plastic. I put Roxul insulation in my trunk where the spare tire was as a test, significantly lowered road noise from behind the driver's seat.

The window switches were the biggest to-do, I'd recommend the mod to anyone with electrical tape and a screwdriver
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:00 AM   #19
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I tighten shit when it gets loose.
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Old 10-19-2018, 01:50 AM   #20
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I tighten shit when it gets loose.
Yep, I've heard about your garage - I'll bet you do have the tool for the job -


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Old 10-19-2018, 03:04 AM   #21
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Living on the west side of Vancouver, I have my fair share of potholes around my house. Ironic, how houses in my area are all around $2M-$5M a pop, yet we have such shitty patchy roads. In contrast, east Vancouver has much nicer roads, repaved, but houses are averaging around $1M.

Anyways, I find it's much worse in the winter. I also find that a clean interior helps with NVH especially when you wipe stuff down with 303 aerospace wipes or armorall. the tradeoff is residue.

Oh, turning off the vibrator in the passenger seat also helps.
Who the bloody hell afford houses that cost that much money.... I must be in the wrong gig or doing something wrong
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:47 AM   #22
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This is what I have done for metro Detroit roads:

1. Anti-rust coating on the bottom. Helps a little, but still, helps. (Anti-rust foaming inside doors, etc., might help more though).
2. Put a spare wheel (usually a winter wheel during summer, or a summer wheel during winter) or some dead weight in the trunk. That way your TPMS won't light up while on aftermarket wheels either.
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:36 AM   #23
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I tighten shit when it gets loose.


?
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:39 AM   #24
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Who the bloody hell afford houses that cost that much money....
In Vancouver?


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Old 10-19-2018, 01:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh View Post
1. Reducing tire pressure - sometimes even 1 psi will make an appreciable difference in noise and comfort

2. Bushings - surprisingly fitting rear subframe bushings from Whiteline made the ride more pliant and less crashy. The clunks went away as well. I gained a bit of noise but the good kind. In fact, after fitting all the trans/diff/subframe bushings and inserts, friends say the car sounds like it was tuned. But it's less clunky.

3. Knowing what causes them - sometimes it's your work ID badge in the door pocket that keeps rattling. Sometimes the passenger seat isn't fully clicked into position. Sometimes it's the seat belt buckle against the door. The rear seat back being clicked into position on only one side drove me crazy for months til I figured out that's what it was.

Other than that, no rattles really.
#3 speaks to me. I lost my mind on a ride home thinking I had a front right endlink, tophat, or balljoint failing and it turned out to be a red bull can a passenger had left in the door.

Choosing parts that have a tiny bit of compliance make a big difference, like using OE or Group N Top hats instead of camber plates.

I found that doing the whiteline positive shift kit, and rear subframe bushings really helped with some of the rear end clunks, drivetrain shudder and wheel hop that was annoying and noisy.
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Old 10-19-2018, 05:08 PM   #26
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I get a weird rattle/squeak from the top dash speaker panels. I believe its rubbing against the plastic a pillar cover, as it seems to stop if I put pressure on either panel. I wedged a ranger band that I cut in half in between the panels and it seems to have stopped it.

For those that don't know, ranger bands are just thick black rubber bands;



I have the rear deck rattle (i think) but I haven't fixed it yet.


I don't mind minor vibrations or cabin noise so much, but rattles and squeaks for loose fitting panels or other things really bother me. Makes me feel like the car is falling apart.
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Old 10-19-2018, 06:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I tighten shit when it gets loose.
I take it out and throw it in my closet. That where the rear seats, panels, spare tire, etc live.
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:11 PM   #28
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My 2013 FR-S doesn't have, nor ever has, any squeaks or rattles (that I can hear at least - ).

However, if it did, I would put someone behind the wheel to drive and I would go "hunting" with a spray can of silicone, a long, thin screwdriver and a roll of black electrical tape.


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