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Old 05-22-2020, 10:06 PM   #141
Irace86.2.0
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Hate to be a kill joy, but there is a good chance the paint could fade over time.

I replaced a side mirror for my lancer back in the day. $75 aftermarket versus $265 OEM, but it was apparent within a year or two where the extra money went, and it was to the paint. The aftermarket one looked identical, but the clear coat slowly faded over the year, and eventually, it was matte black. They either skimped on quality or on the layers of paint. Hopefully that isn't the case for you.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:24 AM   #142
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Could you share the link for the spoiler please ?


Do you think it covers oem holes ? (Pre-17)


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Old 05-25-2020, 12:21 AM   #143
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Hate to be a kill joy, but there is a good chance the paint could fade over time.

I replaced a side mirror for my lancer back in the day. $75 aftermarket versus $265 OEM, but it was apparent within a year or two where the extra money went, and it was to the paint. The aftermarket one looked identical, but the clear coat slowly faded over the year, and eventually, it was matte black. They either skimped on quality or on the layers of paint. Hopefully that isn't the case for you.
You may very well be right, but this car will rarely see miles put on it so I don't imagine it fading quickly. Plus I looked it over and it really looks nice. And it was recommended to me by a friend who has both an authentic TRD and this exact rep and has had them for over a year without complaints. He told me get the replica because it fit just as nicely as his authentic TRD so I did. Fingers crossed it lasts and doesn't fade on me!

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Could you share the link for the spoiler please ?


Do you think it covers oem holes ? (Pre-17)


Thanks !
This actually has 2 threaded holes at the bottom to secure it with. I had a wingless trunk so I did not utilize these threaded holes, i'm just using 3M double sided tape and it seems extremely secure as it. I am fairly confident it will cover all of your oem holes, as this is a TRD replica and the TRD one does cover the holes (pre '17). It does not come with any double sided tape so make sure you get some 3M and also use some isopropyl alcohol or similar to prep the spoiler and trunk surfaces before applying the tape.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-Scion-F...K/303353540088

You may have a different color so look around for the correct one.
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Old 05-28-2020, 12:59 AM   #144
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vvti is about $3k, non-vvti is closer to $4k but that's for a stock, crappy old engine. Not worthy of putting into anything and running it since it will at the very least have a few leaks. Needs to be completely gone through and at the very least replace all gaskets, vacuum lines, oil pump, water pump, and timing. But if anybody wants to make real power building the head is definitely recommended.
My old 2jz corolla put 835rwhp though a turbo 400 with stock untouched head. It did have hks 272s, rest of the long block was stock Toyota. The more boost the smother it will run.
2jzs are awesome to say the least.

The oil pump, if its not modified try not t rev it cold, it will blow out the front main seal. Another very common problem is the crank reluctor separating from the crank cog. To fix it just tach it on with a tig. The coils also get tired and start missing on high boost new OEM coils fix this. That's about all that goes wrong with them.

Great job with your swap!!!

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Old 05-28-2020, 11:06 AM   #145
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My old 2jz corolla put 835rwhp though a turbo 400 with stock untouched head. It did have hks 272s, rest of the long block was stock Toyota. The more boost the smother it will run.
2jzs are awesome to say the least.

The oil pump, if its not modified try not t rev it cold, it will blow out the front main seal. Another very common problem is the crank reluctor separating from the crank cog. To fix it just tach it on with a tig. The coils also get tired and start missing on high boost new OEM coils fix this. That's about all that goes wrong with them.

Great job with your swap!!!
I have a fluidamper crank to fix that issue! And as far as coils, i'm just using the ones that came with it until I have to replace them with brand new OEM like you mentioned.
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Old 05-28-2020, 12:35 PM   #146
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I have a fluidamper crank to fix that issue! And as far as coils, i'm just using the ones that came with it until I have to replace them with brand new OEM like you mentioned.
I also had the fluidamper and the reluctor came loose, the seal blows out from the oil leaking past the oil pump and creating pressure behind the front main seal and pushing it out. The modified pumps have an extra drain hole behind the seal and small bolts to hold the seal in.
New coils are good to at least 1150hp at the crank, run platium plugs with the gap at .028 above 20lbs.
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Old 05-28-2020, 01:04 PM   #147
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I also had the fluidamper and the reluctor came loose, the seal blows out from the oil leaking past the oil pump and creating pressure behind the front main seal and pushing it out. The modified pumps have an extra drain hole behind the seal and small bolts to hold the seal in.
New coils are good to at least 1150hp at the crank, run platium plugs with the gap at .028 above 20lbs.
I'll keep the reluctor in mind and that's good to hear about the coils. I was skeptical about keeping them stock but that makes me feel better.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:26 AM   #148
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New wheel and tire setup!

Fronts are VMS racing 17x8 ET35 with 225/45r17 Nitto nt05R's
Rears are VMS racing 18x9 ET35 with 275/40r17 Nitto NT555R

So far i'm super happy with the setup. Fitment is literally right where I wanted it to be.
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