STX Rules and Setup Questions

[jbailey8748]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I'm well aware, that was my point. I don't know how the heat cycles from DD use behave, are they half cycles because they never actually get HOT?

FWIW I've got two autocrosses and a track day in the next week and a half and 2k miles of highway driving. I'll be putting on new tires before the end of July, I think. 4 months of use out of tires... Depressing

Gotta pay to play😉


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[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by jbailey8748

Gotta pay to play��


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I already paid, I've had a spare set of RE-71Rs sitting in my basement for a month I wasn't going to risk the silly tire shortage problem affecting my ability to drive to work or miss events (going for Philly region class championship)

[e1_griego]

^Yup, I bought two sets at the start of the year, just want to get through July with the 1st set if I can (our Tour and Pro are next month).

Also, I picked up that used Ace A/350 header that CSG Mike was selling so I'll be able to give some feedback soon enough.

[strat61caster]

Shameless plug, I need to dump a set if anybody wants one.

Edit: Like new and as such, near new pricing.

Vultures.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

It's fuzzy

Someone wanna grab a measuring tape next time they're under the car?

[e1_griego]

The other cat is on the front pipe. The Ace header replaces the overpipe.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by renfield90

Someone wanna grab a measuring tape next time they're under the car?

What for? That bolts to a factory frontpipe so I'm honestly not sure what you're getting at. I don't have an ACE so I don't have any skin in that game, but I don't see an issue with it.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I'm well aware, that was my point. I don't know how the heat cycles from DD use behave, are they half cycles because they never actually get HOT?

It depends on rubber chemistry, but in general I consider them full heat cycles.

I've had tires heat cycles themselves to death just sitting in my garage for a few months. Why? Well, in summer our garages get up to around 100F. If you touched the tire it sure wouldn't be "pull your hand away hot" but it's enough.

When a tire heats up, the bits of rubber in the tire form bonds with each other (this is why graining is a symptom of cold tires, the bonds haven't formed yet and rubber freely comes off). The tire generates grip not through simple friction on the road surface, but by the rubber on the surface sticking to the road and stretching/breaking the bonds formed by the rubber. That's why rubber gets laid down on the fast line.

As the tire cools down, those bonds try to release back to their original state, but only get to 95% of it (this is heat cycling). The bonds that do not release become harder to break. Eventually too many of these bonds become permanent, the tire gets hard and it doesn't want to lay down rubber (which is the true way grip is created).

The warmer the tire, the more bonds get formed. Any heating of the tire results in a heat cycle, no matter how subtle. It may not be the equal of an autocross heat cycle but I can guarantee you some of those rubber bits bonded permanently and made the tire harder.

Since you're not laying down a lot of rubber on your daily commute, that's why your tires eventually heat cycle out before they ran out of tread. My BFGs set top index with cords showing last year, but that's because they saw 500 street miles max and were stored indoors with climate control and in bags. You really need to treat the current gen of street tires like race rubber if you care about max performance down to the cords.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

The other cat is on the front pipe. The Ace header replaces the overpipe.

Originally Posted by DocWalt

What for? That bolts to a factory frontpipe so I'm honestly not sure what you're getting at. I don't have an ACE so I don't have any skin in that game, but I don't see an issue with it.

If that's the case it's legal. I must be thinking of a different header or misremembering the pic I saw.

[alucard7755]

Originally Posted by 2superblus

Black bushings or Yellow? have you greased them?

I've had some similar popping noises with my whiteline kit. I can't remember what color mine were, but they claimed to be the "greaseless" bushings. Should I have greased them anyway?

[2superblus]

Originally Posted by alucard7755

I've had some similar popping noises with my whiteline kit. I can't remember what color mine were, but they claimed to be the "greaseless" bushings. Should I have greased them anyway?

Based on my inside source at Whiteline grease them anyhow.

[BRZHarley]

On the topic of the Whiteline bushings and endlinks...

I recently installed a Whiteline 20mm bar with the new greaseless bushing, I decided to try them out and they work great! Greasing them isn't going hurt to anything either...

The clunky noise on the other hand drove me nuts for a week until I determine the cause... The Whiteline bar comes with a nice thick epoxy coating, I found that the coating was preventing a good tightening of the end link to bar connection. The end link to strut was just fine... My resolution was to use an abrasive pad on my air grinder to remove the excess coating around the hole on the bar, took about 5 minutes per side. Once my sons and I cleaned up the bar and retorqued the end end link the clunking was gone and hasn't come back!

Good luck,

Ed

[jbailey8748]

Originally Posted by BRZHarley

On the topic of the Whiteline bushings and endlinks...

I recently installed a Whiteline 20mm bar with the new greaseless bushing, I decided to try them out and they work great! Greasing them isn't going hurt to anything either...

The clunky noise on the other hand drove me nuts for a week until I determine the cause... The Whiteline bar comes with a nice thick epoxy coating, I found that the coating was preventing a good tightening of the end link to bar connection. The end link to strut was just fine... My resolution was to use an abrasive pad on my air grinder to remove the excess coating around the hole on the bar, took about 5 minutes per side. Once my sons and I cleaned up the bar and retorqued the end end link the clunking was gone and hasn't come back!

Good luck,

Ed

I had the same problem and solved it the same way. This does work

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[justinco]

Originally Posted by BRZHarley

On the topic of the Whiteline bushings and endlinks...

I recently installed a Whiteline 20mm bar with the new greaseless bushing, I decided to try them out and they work great! Greasing them isn't going hurt to anything either...

The clunky noise on the other hand drove me nuts for a week until I determine the cause... The Whiteline bar comes with a nice thick epoxy coating, I found that the coating was preventing a good tightening of the end link to bar connection. The end link to strut was just fine... My resolution was to use an abrasive pad on my air grinder to remove the excess coating around the hole on the bar, took about 5 minutes per side. Once my sons and I cleaned up the bar and retorqued the end end link the clunking was gone and hasn't come back!

Good luck,

Ed

Good to know. Mine clunks like crazy too...even have some clunky sounds coming from the rear as well. See if I can't fix it up this weekend.