06-24-2020, 11:38 PM | #799 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Drives: Q5 + BRZ + M796
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 7,882
Thanks: 5,665
Thanked 5,802 Times in 3,297 Posts
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
I think the idea is to remove any embedded material from the previous pad off the rotor or something. People swap pads before track days all the time. It isn’t as good as having a second set of rotors n pads to swap all at once as a matching set. Obviously someone couldn’t get the rotors turned each time, so the trick is to sand the surface to remove transfer material the best you can before bedding the new pads.
__________________
My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
|
06-24-2020, 11:43 PM | #800 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
06-25-2020, 12:14 AM | #801 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Drives: Q5 + BRZ + M796
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 7,882
Thanks: 5,665
Thanked 5,802 Times in 3,297 Posts
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
I might just buy a second set of rotors. I’ll have to call to see what is available locally. I think I would rather maintain a set of brakes n rotors.
__________________
My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Irace86.2.0 For This Useful Post: | jflogerzi (06-25-2020) |
06-25-2020, 12:16 AM | #802 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
06-25-2020, 12:44 AM | #803 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Drives: Q5 + BRZ + M796
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 7,882
Thanks: 5,665
Thanked 5,802 Times in 3,297 Posts
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Yeah I might turn them too. I don’t know. I feel too lazy to sand, and I don’t know if I want to drop coin on new rotors at this time.
__________________
My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
|
07-14-2020, 09:57 PM | #804 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Drives: White Toyota 86
Location: FL
Posts: 40
Thanks: 2
Thanked 32 Times in 15 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Just wanted to add to this thread that 17+ OEM wheels (not the TRD or PP wheels) do not fit the sport performance front calipers. Wasn't sure if they had any differences in fitment to the 13-16 wheels so wanted to give it a try. Looks like a small spacer would let them clear.
|
07-21-2020, 01:09 AM | #805 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Drives: Q5 + BRZ + M796
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 7,882
Thanks: 5,665
Thanked 5,802 Times in 3,297 Posts
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
I decided to just use my angle grinder with a 60 grit sanding flap disc to quickly sweep across the rotors as I spun them on my stool with the backrest removed. Then I used 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat block of wood to add a cross hatch pattern tangential to the center drum, going in each direction. Saved me a $100 instead of getting them spun, and it really didn't look like there was much grooving that would require them to be spun. In fact, the BP10's had probably 75%+ of the material left on them, which I will keep for any future track days. Obviously, I haven't been using the brake pads that much when canyon carving, or rather, I haven't been abusing them or heating them up much. I then took the car out to bed the brakes. I did 4 sets of medium braking from 45-15 then 8-10 sets of hard braking from 60-15. Through it all, the brakes never squealed, and after, I drove around for another half an hour with light to medium braking, and I never once heard a squeal. The wife was with me, and she was very happy. I haven't had them long enough to know if they will ever squeal. I'll have to see after the car gets washed or after a rain or in different weather conditions, but my guess is they will be near quiet to completely quiet. Again, I haven't had them long enough to make a full review, but my initial impressions are that they don't seem to have as strong of a bite as the BP10s, nor do they feel as hard, but that could change as they wear in more fully. They seem perfect for the street and are easy to modulate, but feel sporty. I'm curious how they will hold up to street and canyon use. Overall, I am very happy thus far.
__________________
My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
|
|
07-21-2020, 10:27 AM | #806 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2014 GT86
Location: Latvia, Riga
Posts: 4,333
Thanks: 696
Thanked 2,085 Times in 1,436 Posts
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
So both optimum brake parts choices and alignment for such also is more "street oriented". |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post: | Goingnowherefast (07-21-2020), Irace86.2.0 (07-21-2020) |
07-21-2020, 01:32 PM | #807 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Drives: Q5 + BRZ + M796
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 7,882
Thanks: 5,665
Thanked 5,802 Times in 3,297 Posts
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Yeah exactly. I agree. Although, I do tend to push the car pretty hard in those canyons and late/hard brake, so I’m glad I have the insurance of better brakes, better cooling. ‘Yes, officer. I was barely going that fast. No, I wasn’t doing anything in the triple digits.’ I think most canyon carving is comparable for most people to autocrossing, where speeds aren’t as high and duration isn’t as long for a brake system to become overworked and heat soaked. Even during my most aggressive sessions on the back roads, I typically reach a situation or another vehicle after 2-5 minutes that requires a pause before I can return to driving, or I have the wife in the car, and she is ready to throw up in that time, so I back off. Energy equals 1/2 mass times velocity squared, so the higher velocities on a track are going to be what cooks the brakes more than duration. Most of the areas around the coast and wine country the roads are 25-45 mph normal warning signs with small straight aways. Even getting into triple digits occasionally won’t compare to most track speeds.
My other excuse for not getting out to the canyons as often as I would like is my motorcycle that I take out half or more of the time as a preference and is E85. It is 30 minutes away, and I can only store 30 gallons, so I try to make it last by not doing as many spirited driving sessions, which really eat into my tank. Coronavirus has interrupted getting an E85 station completed in town, but I will likely change that behavior when E85 is more convenient. I also intended to do track stuff, but nursing school has gotten in the way, partially for time and partially for needing this daily driver to be operable. The goal is definitely to see some track time, so I’m glad to have the brakes. Plus aesthetics.
__________________
My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
|
07-21-2020, 01:36 PM | #808 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to jflogerzi For This Useful Post: | Irace86.2.0 (07-21-2020) |
07-21-2020, 03:11 PM | #809 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Drives: Q5 + BRZ + M796
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 7,882
Thanks: 5,665
Thanked 5,802 Times in 3,297 Posts
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Just for better context (instead of me just eyeballing things), I measured my pads. I didn't measure them all and average them because they looked like they wore evenly enough to not get crazy with measurements. I did this because I reconsidered my visual estimates, forgetting that these pads are pretty thick new.
The fronts pads have 13 mm left and the rears have 8 mm left. The fronts originally came with 0.8 inches, which is 20.32 mm, and the rears originally came with 0.49 inches, which is 12.44 mm, so the fronts have about 64% pad left and the rears have about 64% pad left. As for mileage, the brakes were installed in late summer of 2016 when I had a little over 50k miles on the car, and now I have a little less than 80k miles, so roughly 30k miles on the pads. Most of the miles were commuting. I commute 3-5 miles to work in one direction 3-4 days/week (I work twelves in a hospital), which isn't much. I commuted 1.5 hours away twice a week for school for a year. I have done a few road trips like 1000 miles to Disneyland and such things. My daily driving style is aggressive. The car has seen dozens of canyon days. I don't know how long normal pads would last in a normal car with normal sized brakes. A Google search says most brake pads are 10-12 mm and should be replaced around 3-4 mm, which typically occurs around 50k miles. Given normal driving, I would imagine the BP10s on an upgraded brake system would last longer, even if the pads weren't so thick. Meaning, the fronts have gone through 6-7 mm and the rears have gone through 4-5 mm, which is about on par for a normal pad seeing about half it's life or more. In short, it seems that these upgraded pads on the upgraded brake system lasted about on par to a normal driver/car, even if I was driving more aggressively. The front pads have a slightly longer shelf life because of the extra thickness, so I should expect more mileage in total, but the wear characteristics are inline with typical driving, even though the system is an upgrade, which suggests to me that the brake system conserved some brake wear from my aggressive driving. Maybe someone else could give their two cents. Compared to a stock system and pad, an upgraded pad will last longer with normal driving, but with aggressive driving, it greatly depends. I would imagine the 1521s on a normal brake system with my driving style would likely see less than 50k miles. I could imagine them being stretched to 50k miles with the larger caliper/rotors, but not as long as the BP10s lasted.
__________________
My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
|
07-29-2020, 04:52 PM | #810 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: FRS
Location: Canada
Posts: 936
Thanks: 145
Thanked 422 Times in 289 Posts
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
My discs wore out before the track pads did, but the pads are good for many more track days. (and I used them full blast all out always) ! The street pads are quiet on new discs with light dusting on the street. Heavy dusting when tracking, with no rust in the dust or on the wheels when left on for a length of time. Dust cleans easily compared to RR race pads. The pads do not give the ultimate braking power of BP 20's. They do fade on the track when pushed, compared to the track pads. They can be tracked but from the large amount of dust they wont last long. I will report on how long they are usable at the track after they wear (cheaper to replace pads). |
|
12-27-2020, 03:51 PM | #811 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Drives: White Toyota 86
Location: FL
Posts: 40
Thanks: 2
Thanked 32 Times in 15 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Does anyone know how the sport performance fronts are clearance wise when compared to the PP Brembo calipers? The PP calipers have a comprehensive wheel fitment thread and wanted to know if our BBKs are closely compatible (or at least the sport ones).
|
12-29-2020, 11:03 PM | #812 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
|
|
Tags |
big brake kit, competition, track |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
AP Racing brake systems in development | track_warrior | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 872 | 09-17-2017 07:43 PM |
Megan Racing Coilovers - Street / Track / EZ STREET - Starting at $699 Shipped | GuerillaRacing | Brakes, Suspension, Chassis | 149 | 05-12-2015 05:53 PM |
AP Racing Factory Big Brake Kit, NOT Competition | Lonergt | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 0 | 08-25-2013 04:51 PM |
Official street racing thread. All street racing goes here! | bkblitzed | Off-Topic Lounge [WARNING: NO POLITICS] | 8 | 07-19-2013 11:31 AM |
Essex/AP Racing Competition Brake System in Development | JRitt | Brakes, Suspension, Chassis | 1 | 06-14-2012 01:32 PM |