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Old 06-24-2020, 11:38 PM   #799
Irace86.2.0
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I did not. Was not aware it was advisable

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I think the idea is to remove any embedded material from the previous pad off the rotor or something. People swap pads before track days all the time. It isn’t as good as having a second set of rotors n pads to swap all at once as a matching set. Obviously someone couldn’t get the rotors turned each time, so the trick is to sand the surface to remove transfer material the best you can before bedding the new pads.
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Old 06-24-2020, 11:43 PM   #800
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I think the idea is to remove any embedded material from the previous pad off the rotor or something. People swap pads before track days all the time. It isn’t as good as having a second set of rotors n pads to swap all at once as a matching set. Obviously someone couldn’t get the rotors turned each time, so the trick is to sand the surface to remove transfer material the best you can before bedding the new pads.
What grit/type of paper do you recommend?

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Old 06-25-2020, 12:14 AM   #801
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What grit/type of paper do you recommend?

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I have read every from a Scotchbrite pad to 80 grit. I’ve heard people using different chemicals and not.

I might just buy a second set of rotors. I’ll have to call to see what is available locally. I think I would rather maintain a set of brakes n rotors.
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:16 AM   #802
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I have read every from a Scotchbrite pad to 80 grit. I’ve heard people using different chemicals and not.



I might just buy a second set of rotors. I’ll have to call to see what is available locally. I think I would rather maintain a set of brakes n rotors.
I am leaning towards this as well but my current rotors will be for the street. I will give what you said a try and see if it helps.

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Old 06-25-2020, 12:44 AM   #803
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I am leaning towards this as well but my current rotors will be for the street. I will give what you said a try and see if it helps.

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Yeah I might turn them too. I don’t know. I feel too lazy to sand, and I don’t know if I want to drop coin on new rotors at this time.
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:57 PM   #804
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Just wanted to add to this thread that 17+ OEM wheels (not the TRD or PP wheels) do not fit the sport performance front calipers. Wasn't sure if they had any differences in fitment to the 13-16 wheels so wanted to give it a try. Looks like a small spacer would let them clear.
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Old 07-21-2020, 01:09 AM   #805
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I am leaning towards this as well but my current rotors will be for the street. I will give what you said a try and see if it helps.

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I finally got around to installing the Carbotech 1521s.

I decided to just use my angle grinder with a 60 grit sanding flap disc to quickly sweep across the rotors as I spun them on my stool with the backrest removed. Then I used 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat block of wood to add a cross hatch pattern tangential to the center drum, going in each direction. Saved me a $100 instead of getting them spun, and it really didn't look like there was much grooving that would require them to be spun. In fact, the BP10's had probably 75%+ of the material left on them, which I will keep for any future track days. Obviously, I haven't been using the brake pads that much when canyon carving, or rather, I haven't been abusing them or heating them up much.

I then took the car out to bed the brakes. I did 4 sets of medium braking from 45-15 then 8-10 sets of hard braking from 60-15. Through it all, the brakes never squealed, and after, I drove around for another half an hour with light to medium braking, and I never once heard a squeal. The wife was with me, and she was very happy.

I haven't had them long enough to know if they will ever squeal. I'll have to see after the car gets washed or after a rain or in different weather conditions, but my guess is they will be near quiet to completely quiet. Again, I haven't had them long enough to make a full review, but my initial impressions are that they don't seem to have as strong of a bite as the BP10s, nor do they feel as hard, but that could change as they wear in more fully. They seem perfect for the street and are easy to modulate, but feel sporty. I'm curious how they will hold up to street and canyon use. Overall, I am very happy thus far.
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Old 07-21-2020, 10:27 AM   #806
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.. Obviously, I haven't been using the brake pads that much when canyon carving, or rather, I haven't been abusing them or heating them up much. ,,
this. imho many by far overestimate "canyon carving" or enthusiastic driving braking needs, it's far from track, much closer to "normal" street (unless it's prehistoric car which stock brakes are barely sufficient even for street/DD). Canyon roads are still public roads, with no engineered runoff zones to make mistakes less costly/risky, with still many unpredictable/uncontrollable variables, such as other drivers (including driving in opposite direction), kids, critters, sand or spill over tarmac at unexpected point, blind turns/junctions and so on .. apart those uncontrollable variables, that require to not drive at more then acceptable to one risk/limits, there are also legal speed limits, often put up such, that even with reasonable speeding over them, as they are put there for generic, including less grippy/capable traffic and for misc. possible weather situations, it still is far from driving on maximized acceleration/cornering/braking grip limit like on eg. track. By my book if DD is 2-3/10, "enthusiastic/canyon driving" 3-4/10, and track 8-10/10.
So both optimum brake parts choices and alignment for such also is more "street oriented".
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Old 07-21-2020, 01:32 PM   #807
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Yeah exactly. I agree. Although, I do tend to push the car pretty hard in those canyons and late/hard brake, so I’m glad I have the insurance of better brakes, better cooling. ‘Yes, officer. I was barely going that fast. No, I wasn’t doing anything in the triple digits.’ I think most canyon carving is comparable for most people to autocrossing, where speeds aren’t as high and duration isn’t as long for a brake system to become overworked and heat soaked. Even during my most aggressive sessions on the back roads, I typically reach a situation or another vehicle after 2-5 minutes that requires a pause before I can return to driving, or I have the wife in the car, and she is ready to throw up in that time, so I back off. Energy equals 1/2 mass times velocity squared, so the higher velocities on a track are going to be what cooks the brakes more than duration. Most of the areas around the coast and wine country the roads are 25-45 mph normal warning signs with small straight aways. Even getting into triple digits occasionally won’t compare to most track speeds.

My other excuse for not getting out to the canyons as often as I would like is my motorcycle that I take out half or more of the time as a preference and is E85. It is 30 minutes away, and I can only store 30 gallons, so I try to make it last by not doing as many spirited driving sessions, which really eat into my tank. Coronavirus has interrupted getting an E85 station completed in town, but I will likely change that behavior when E85 is more convenient.

I also intended to do track stuff, but nursing school has gotten in the way, partially for time and partially for needing this daily driver to be operable. The goal is definitely to see some track time, so I’m glad to have the brakes. Plus aesthetics.
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Old 07-21-2020, 01:36 PM   #808
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Yeah exactly. I agree. Although, I do tend to push the car pretty hard in those canyons and late/hard brake, so I’m glad I have the insurance of better brakes, better cooling. ‘Yes, officer. I was barely going that fast. No, I wasn’t doing anything in the triple digits.’ I think most canyon carving is comparable for most people to autocrossing, where speeds aren’t as high and duration isn’t as long for a brake system to become overworked and heat soaked. Even during my most aggressive sessions on the back roads, I typically reach a situation or another vehicle after 2-5 minutes that requires a pause before I can return to driving, or I have the wife in the car, and she is ready to throw up in that time, so I back off. Energy equals 1/2 mass times velocity squared, so the higher velocities on a track are going to be what cooks the brakes more than duration. Most of the areas around the coast and wine country the roads are 25-45 mph normal warning signs with small straight aways. Even getting into triple digits occasionally won’t compare to most track speeds.

My other excuse for not getting out to the canyons as often as I would like is my motorcycle that I take out half or more of the time as a preference and is E85. It is 30 minutes away, and I can only store 30 gallons, so I try to make it last by not doing as many spirited driving sessions, which really eat into my tank. Coronavirus has interrupted getting an E85 station completed in town, but I will likely change that behavior when E85 is more convenient.

I also intended to do track stuff, but nursing school has gotten in the way, partially for time and partially for needing this daily driver to be operable. The goal is definitely to see some track time, so I’m glad to have the brakes. Plus aesthetics.
Swapping pads is pretty easy on these brakes. You convinced me to get my rotors turned and get a set for track days next season(this season is shot)

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Old 07-21-2020, 03:11 PM   #809
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Just for better context (instead of me just eyeballing things), I measured my pads. I didn't measure them all and average them because they looked like they wore evenly enough to not get crazy with measurements. I did this because I reconsidered my visual estimates, forgetting that these pads are pretty thick new.

The fronts pads have 13 mm left and the rears have 8 mm left. The fronts originally came with 0.8 inches, which is 20.32 mm, and the rears originally came with 0.49 inches, which is 12.44 mm, so the fronts have about 64% pad left and the rears have about 64% pad left.

As for mileage, the brakes were installed in late summer of 2016 when I had a little over 50k miles on the car, and now I have a little less than 80k miles, so roughly 30k miles on the pads. Most of the miles were commuting. I commute 3-5 miles to work in one direction 3-4 days/week (I work twelves in a hospital), which isn't much. I commuted 1.5 hours away twice a week for school for a year. I have done a few road trips like 1000 miles to Disneyland and such things. My daily driving style is aggressive. The car has seen dozens of canyon days.

I don't know how long normal pads would last in a normal car with normal sized brakes. A Google search says most brake pads are 10-12 mm and should be replaced around 3-4 mm, which typically occurs around 50k miles. Given normal driving, I would imagine the BP10s on an upgraded brake system would last longer, even if the pads weren't so thick. Meaning, the fronts have gone through 6-7 mm and the rears have gone through 4-5 mm, which is about on par for a normal pad seeing about half it's life or more.

In short, it seems that these upgraded pads on the upgraded brake system lasted about on par to a normal driver/car, even if I was driving more aggressively. The front pads have a slightly longer shelf life because of the extra thickness, so I should expect more mileage in total, but the wear characteristics are inline with typical driving, even though the system is an upgrade, which suggests to me that the brake system conserved some brake wear from my aggressive driving.

Maybe someone else could give their two cents. Compared to a stock system and pad, an upgraded pad will last longer with normal driving, but with aggressive driving, it greatly depends. I would imagine the 1521s on a normal brake system with my driving style would likely see less than 50k miles. I could imagine them being stretched to 50k miles with the larger caliper/rotors, but not as long as the BP10s lasted.
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Old 07-29-2020, 04:52 PM   #810
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My discs still have a coating of the track pads, the metal rusts when sitting in the wet. Start up is dead quiet when wet, and when polished shiny after a few stops, still quiet.
No shims, and no grease as it instantly sizzles smokes and burns when tracking
Will report after my next tracking day as to results of hard use. I hope the pads will be useful on the track due to the overbraking capacity of the stage IV and hi bias on a light car ( the track pads are very abrasive and erode the discs quickly )

My discs wore out before the track pads did, but the pads are good for many more track days. (and I used them full blast all out always) !
The street pads are quiet on new discs with light dusting on the street.
Heavy dusting when tracking, with no rust in the dust or on the wheels when left on for a length of time.
Dust cleans easily compared to RR race pads.
The pads do not give the ultimate braking power of BP 20's.
They do fade on the track when pushed, compared to the track pads.
They can be tracked but from the large amount of dust they wont last long.
I will report on how long they are usable at the track after they wear (cheaper to replace pads).
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Old 12-27-2020, 03:51 PM   #811
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Does anyone know how the sport performance fronts are clearance wise when compared to the PP Brembo calipers? The PP calipers have a comprehensive wheel fitment thread and wanted to know if our BBKs are closely compatible (or at least the sport ones).
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Old 12-29-2020, 11:03 PM   #812
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Does anyone know how the sport performance fronts are clearance wise when compared to the PP Brembo calipers? The PP calipers have a comprehensive wheel fitment thread and wanted to know if our BBKs are closely compatible (or at least the sport ones).
I have the sports both front and rear. I can provide some measurements if need be

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