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Old 05-11-2022, 07:01 PM   #1
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Powertrain options for track only

I have a track only BRZ with a tired motor and trans on its last leg. I got plenty of time out of it, so it's time for a powertrain refresh.

All I really care about is reliability and then cost.
I'd rather pay more for more reliability, to a reasonable degree.
Increased power isn't much of a goal, if any.

So what does everyone recommend here? And where should I get it from?


What year engines will be compatible? I have an early 2014, and it has the 2013.
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Old 05-11-2022, 07:37 PM   #2
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Best reliability would be to swap in a stock Honda K24 or a Ls motor.
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Old 05-12-2022, 08:08 AM   #3
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That’s a lot more than I care to get into and this trans doesn’t need more power. I’d just buy a c5 race car at that point.
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2014 BRZ: Full track car. Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, OMP, bolt ons, aero, etc,
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1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies.
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Old 05-12-2022, 08:43 AM   #4
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Look at Element Tuning in Fla.
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Old 05-12-2022, 08:59 AM   #5
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What year transmissions can I use? Is it just the gearing that changed?
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2014 BRZ: Full track car. Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, OMP, bolt ons, aero, etc,
2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc.
1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies.
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Old 05-12-2022, 10:11 AM   #6
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What’s your budget
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Old 05-12-2022, 10:32 AM   #7
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What’s your budget
I guess it depends. I figure I can get a new bottom end for around $2k. It’s the heads and trans that I haven’t much looked at lately.
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2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc.
1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies.
2018 GLE 63 AMG: +800hp whistling AWD TT V8 grocery getter
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Old 05-12-2022, 11:29 AM   #8
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If you are happy with it just throw another shortblock at it and call it a day. Maybe add an oil pan baffle for some extra protection.

I am going through this now. Want a K swap, can't justify the cost yet. I'm just going to do a leak down and comp test, tear it down and check the rod and main bearings. Replace what needs replaced and send it.
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Old 05-12-2022, 01:26 PM   #9
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I guess it depends. I figure I can get a new bottom end for around $2k. It’s the heads and trans that I haven’t much looked at lately.
You can have the heads re done. I went with an IAG shortblock for good measure.
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Old 05-12-2022, 02:43 PM   #10
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If you are happy with it just throw another shortblock at it and call it a day. Maybe add an oil pan baffle for some extra protection.

I am going through this now. Want a K swap, can't justify the cost yet. I'm just going to do a leak down and comp test, tear it down and check the rod and main bearings. Replace what needs replaced and send it.
Mine is smoking a good bit and my mph/lap times are down about 4 seconds too. Pretty sure I'm on borrowed time at this point.

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You can have the heads re done. I went with an IAG shortblock for good measure.
I can't imagine I'd really need aftermarket internals for stock power, but what did that run you?

It's really shocking how expensive a low mile long block is. I thought for sure I'd be able to grab a 30k mile crate for like $3k. More like double that for double the miles.

Anyone know what year engines and transmissions I can use?
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2014 BRZ: Full track car. Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, OMP, bolt ons, aero, etc,
2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc.
1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies.
2018 GLE 63 AMG: +800hp whistling AWD TT V8 grocery getter
2016 GX460: IDK. Too reliable to sell. Too boring to use.
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Old 05-12-2022, 04:10 PM   #11
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Transmissions are effectively the same across all years

Long block can be used across all years, but you will need to swap a few things from your old motor depending on year. There are some threads around here if you search the motor year you're swapping and the base year.

I would personally not touch a motor that has been opened by anyone since it left the factory on these cars since they are already kind of hand grenades, but your mileage my vary. I went K24 and sold my 30k-ish mile motor as a long block for $3k.

I think prices for these motors are higher than expected because they effectively only came in BRZ/FRS/86, cutting the donor pool significantly.
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Old 05-12-2022, 07:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedReplicant View Post
Transmissions are effectively the same across all years

Long block can be used across all years, but you will need to swap a few things from your old motor depending on year. There are some threads around here if you search the motor year you're swapping and the base year.

I would personally not touch a motor that has been opened by anyone since it left the factory on these cars since they are already kind of hand grenades, but your mileage my vary. I went K24 and sold my 30k-ish mile motor as a long block for $3k.

I think prices for these motors are higher than expected because they effectively only came in BRZ/FRS/86, cutting the donor pool significantly.
Yeah, I been down that road. Got an engine from a "master" Toyota tech. It was a mess. Threw a rocker but don't think I can attribute that to his work but the FIPG job he did was awful, he must have used 2 full tubes of it on that thing. It wasn't going to be long of this world.
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Old 05-12-2022, 10:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by GrandSport View Post



I can't imagine I'd really need aftermarket internals for stock power, but what did that run you?

It's really shocking how expensive a low mile long block is. I thought for sure I'd be able to grab a 30k mile crate for like $3k. More like double that for double the miles.
it was 3,200. They also machine the block for better oiling. Way better bearings than stock also. I wanted bulletproof. Lol I call it my Toyota boxter. Overengineered like a Toyota motor.
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Old 05-29-2022, 06:04 PM   #14
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So as an update, I couldn't find a better option than just a straight up new crate bottom end. I guess that it's hard to argue with +100 hard track hrs for $5k- maybe even 200 come to think of it.
As far as transmissions go, there seems to be an issue with McCloud clutches not 100% disengaging and killing synchronizers. Going to switch out something else and try again.
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2014 BRZ: Full track car. Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, OMP, bolt ons, aero, etc,
2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc.
1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies.
2018 GLE 63 AMG: +800hp whistling AWD TT V8 grocery getter
2016 GX460: IDK. Too reliable to sell. Too boring to use.
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