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Old 11-23-2014, 08:07 AM   #29
lonborghini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaptorque View Post
Are radar detectors even useful anymore since it seems like all cops are using laser now?
It's a bit off topic but i do my driving in New York and Pennsylvania. In both states the police rely heavily on radar. I've encountered laser in New York only once and never in Pennsylvania. New York uses a lot of moving radar. Pennsylvania state police are restricted by law to stationary raday. I saw significant laser use in Massachusetts. Police prefer using radar as doing laser speed measurement is too much like work.
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
Hey guys. Here is FYI for FRS owners who want to hardwire their radar detector but don't want to run the wires to the fuse box or accessory plug.

If you pop out the dome light (grasp the edges and easily pull down, the plastic clamps will release and pop out). Feel around where the dome light hole is in the headliner and about an inch from the opening, towards the passengers side, you will feel wiring that is bundled with a grey foam at the end.

Easily pull the grey portion down. That unattached electrical connector is for the power rearview mirror on the BRZ and not used on the FRS. There are 3 wires (blue, black, grey). The middle black wire is the ground and the grey is the power and ONLY on when the ignition is on.

I used two small, blue, U shaped metal electrical connectors with half of the U cut off and stuck them in the back of the wiring harness (grey power, black ground), wrapped the connections some with electrical tape, then connected the hardwire kit that came with the V1. Secured all the wires so there was no rattle in the headliner. Reattached the dome light. This is just like using an invisicord.

Oh, you can feed the wire to the radar detector through the headliner towards the windshield, there is a small gap between the headliner and windshield.

Hope this helps. Doc.

OK so after reading this DIY and ordering this:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG5ZMVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#"]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG5ZMVC[/ame]

I found the wiring harness so accurately described above, and found the same three wires. I decided to snip off the OEM connector at the end and I will be using some single line connectors to make this easy to un-install should I need to in the future. To test the circuit, I temporarily used some wire nuts.

The gray wire on the car goes to the Red in the detector harness, and the black ground on the car goes to the black ground on the detector harness. From there, the circuit goes to an in-line fuse (see Amazon page) then out to a phone jack plug into the detector.

This setup is not working for me at all. I don't see any power to the detector, and none of the combinations of wires reads any Volts on a multi-meter, whether the car is running or not.

Did I screw something up in the circuit by snipping off the connector? Any other ideas as to what is going on here?? I'm starting to feel dumb!

All your help is greatly appreciated
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:11 AM   #31
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So I figured it out!!!

It turns out people above were discussing the same problem, but since I didn't know what was going on, I didn't realize I was having the same issue. I'll document it here in case anyone else runs into the issue.

If you are not getting power to the connector / wires for the harness, try the following. Turn the key to the ON position so your radio turns on. Try to move your side mirrors with the little knob on the driver's side door. If those work, you have some other problem and should stop reading this. If the mirrors won't move, I have your fix!

It turns out the side mirrors and the rear view mirror harness are on the same fuse. If you're like me, you accidentally blew the fuse by messing with the connector / wires. It is 10Amp in the corner of the interior fuse box (not the one under the hood). Specifically, it is the fuse furthest towards the front of the car, and furthest to the passenger side. Pop that out and replace it with a fresh one AFTER you've got all the wiring completed per the OP. Make sure nothing is touching each other or loose so you don't blow the fuse again. You can use the spare 10Amp from under the hood if you don't have one.
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Old 03-03-2015, 01:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zahrtman2006 View Post
Did you ever figure this problem out HotSauce?

As for the pictures, i took this after the fact so, there is electrical tape covering the connector.

Pry from the rear forward, it will come out very easily, i disconnected the dome light to allow more room with less interference, then like Doc said, reach around the dome light well for that unused connector, he used U-shaped connectors, i just tapped into the wire and added quick disconnects ( i dont plan on ever needing that harness anyway).

NOTE: I would HIGHLY recommend feeding the wire through the gap at the windshield BEFORE wiring, i did not and had quite a time trying to force the thicker end of the wire (where the adapter is) through that gap.

Thanks to Doc for the DIY, that how i did mine



what suction cup mount is that?
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:53 PM   #33
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I am planning on getting a BRZ very soon, and just wanted to confirm, if I get a BRZ with just the basic mirror, this should also be available right?

Has anyone used it to hook up a dashcam? That would be really convenient if I didn't have to run wiring.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:54 PM   #34
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Did this the other day. Much cleaner.
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:58 PM   #35
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I am planning on getting a BRZ very soon, and just wanted to confirm, if I get a BRZ with just the basic mirror, this should also be available right?
Yep, it would be exactly like the FRS in the OP.

Quote:
Has anyone used it to hook up a dashcam? That would be really convenient if I didn't have to run wiring.
Also yep - I had my ITB-100HD dashcam powered off it for a long while (along with my V1 and the power rear mirror). It really depends on the dashcam and what sort of power it wants to use. The ITB-100HD is good with the same 12VDC as the V1, which happens to be what's available from the power mirror connection, so that worked out well. My new camera, a Mobius ActionCam, needs 5VDC via a miniUSB connector, so I opted to wire it to a USB power adapter elsewhere.
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Last edited by codesplice; 03-03-2015 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:52 PM   #36
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Also yep - I had my ITB-100HD dashcam powered off it for a long while (along with my V1 and the power rear mirror). It really depends on the dashcam and what sort of power it wants to use. The ITB-100HD is good with the same 12VDC as the V1, which happens to be what's available from the power mirror connection, so that worked out well. My new camera, a Mobius ActionCam, needs 5VDC via a miniUSB connector, so I opted to wire it to a USB power adapter elsewhere.
Good to know, I plan on getting the BlackVue 650 2CH when I get my car, and its spec sheet says it is fine with 12-24V at a max of 4.8W, so that should handle it fine and I won't have to run any new cabling which is awesome. Especially since it comes on and off with the car. I have been thinking about getting a radar detector too, so I can just splice that in, in the future if I decide to go for it.
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Old 05-27-2015, 03:19 AM   #37
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To make it cheaper and not have to buy a detector power cord:
*This worked for a Passport 8500 X50
Take a regular telephone cord and cut it to about a foot in length.
Strip the red and green wire ends on the telephone cord.
Green cord wire to gray car wire and red cord wire to black car wire.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:18 PM   #38
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Easiest way I found was this:

>Original power cable for passport x500i plugged in to AC power outlet in glove box

> plugged into RJ11 coupler (purchased at radioshack) https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/s...bykQs&usqp=CAY

>Extended phone cable plugged into RJ11 coupler and routed along pillar to radar.

This allowed me to "have hidden cables/power w/o cutting or splicing any wires". All necessary items (extended phone cable, RJ11 coupler) can be purchased for cheap. You're simply extending the power cable to the radar using a homemade extension cable.
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