STX setup sharing thread (2020)

[oinojo]

Originally Posted by colobrio

I'm on 5k/8k and stock diff, but it's not by design. I bought tigermack's car in January, after he'd sold the Giken. This is the first substantially modified car I've driven, so I don't have much frame of reference. The one thing that's disappointed me with the handling has been that it seems looser on corner exit than I expected (although maybe less so since I just switched to Yokos). I'm sure that's due mostly to my mediocre skills, but would this setup be contributing? I'm thinking about squaring up the springs this winter.

Have you aligned it since you got it? Rear camber should be -3.0 and 1/8" toe in with the rear lower than the front. Try that before spending money on springs.

[colobrio]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

I have 500/lb springs all the way around on RCE T2, car has always been loose, I am fine with oversteer, but know it kills the tires/looses some time. I am at -2.5* camber in the rear, so guess I am less than most with dedicated STX setups.

Originally Posted by oinojo

Have you aligned it since you got it? Rear camber should be -3.0 and 1/8" toe in with the rear lower than the front. Try that before spending money on springs.

Originally Posted by strat61caster

If you've got a few events under your belt (or at least a solid TnT) just change something. More front spring or bar might help you build confidence in the car. Hell even just dropping the rear ride height or upping the front tire pressures, maybe a few clicks on the rear damper. You can always backtrack if you don't like it.

Alignment can play a pretty big role as well but you probably got decent specs to start with.

Thanks all.Yes, I did get it aligned, after a couple winter events but before the "season" started. From the comments, I may have set the rear camber a little too low. I'll have to dig out the sheet, but i think it's about 2.5, with maybe 4.3 in the front, a little toe out in front, and a little toe in at the back. I thought I'd want a little more autocross/track balance, but I've done almost all autocross this year.

I've think softening the compression setting on the back dampers has helped a little, but it sounds as if the next step may be trying a little more camber in back. I feel like I can already notice the effect on straight-line braking with the camber I've got, but I guess a little more in back won't make enough difference to matter.

[Breezio]

Interesting, I thought I had heard that -2.5 camber in the rear was about the most you want.
What would increased rear camber typically do to the handling?

[strat61caster]

imho rear toe is the culprit if they were running 1/8" in, just lengthen the rear lca to hit that number with some toe plates and I bet it hooks up for you. You'll get closer to the camber they had as a bonus.

[colobrio]

Following up: post-alignment camber was 4.2 degrees front and 2.75 degrees rear, toe was .05 out in front and .11 in at the back (per wheel). Height is slightly lower in back, measured to subframe. That was 10 AutoXs and 1 track day ago, so it may be due for a touch up.

[justint5387]

It's loose on power? or entry? Try more rear rebound?

If you carry enough speed, the car will never be loose

[Westen86]

Loose entry = needs more front or less rear
Loose exit = needs less front or more rear

Weather its springs, sways or dampening depends on what you have.

[colobrio]

Loose getting on the power at exit. Basically, I have to be more deliberate getting back on the throttle coming out of corners than I expected in a low-power car fully prepped for ST. It's the one area of handling that's not dramatically improved from what I'm used to, which is a barely modified car that weighs 600 lbs more and has minimal camber with no LSD.

[Roadphantom]

For those who also track and run an oil cooler, does it have problems warming up fast enough in autox cooler mornings? I am looking at a local option where I can choose the size of the oil cooler which comes in 13, 19, 25 or 30 rows. I am considering the 13 rows since I don't plan on tracking often.

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by Roadphantom

For those who also track and run an oil cooler, does it have problems warming up fast enough in autox cooler mornings? I am looking at a local option where I can choose the size of the oil cooler which comes in 13, 19, 25 or 30 rows. I am considering the 13 rows since I don't plan on tracking often.

I never noticed the warmup time being any different. I don't think its an issue.

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[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by Roadphantom

For those who also track and run an oil cooler, does it have problems warming up fast enough in autox cooler mornings? I am looking at a local option where I can choose the size of the oil cooler which comes in 13, 19, 25 or 30 rows. I am considering the 13 rows since I don't plan on tracking often.

You should just make sure you have a thermostatic plate and you size appropriately for max conditions.

Sounds like you're shooting yourself in the foot intentionally undersizing a cooler that can't handle max capacity.

[Roadphantom]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

You should just make sure you have a thermostatic plate and you size appropriately for max conditions.



Sounds like you're shooting yourself in the foot intentionally undersizing a cooler that can't handle max capacity.

So it comes with a 185f thermostatic plate. If warm ups are not any different with that, then it would be safer to go with the 19 rows one which is max row for that model on the stock crash bar since I don't know the max conditions.

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by Roadphantom

So it comes with a 185f thermostatic plate. If warm ups are not any different with that, then it would be safer to go with the 19 rows one which is max row for that model on the stock crash bar since I don't know the max conditions.

Correct, you won't flow oil through the cooler until 185F. So on a cold start condition you won't have to worry about overcooling oil.

19 Row should be plenty. Jackson Racing uses a 15 Row and performs really well

[AlanLGuy]

What are the STX legal options for replacing the differential bushings? Mine are looking a little worse for the wear. I see a lot of people running the Whiteline inserts, looking at the full Whiteline replacement kit, it looks like it’s probably not STX legal based on the increased metal content.

Megan Racing makes a hardened rubber replacement it looks like, any other options to consider or am I better off just replacing with a new OEM bushing and getting the Whiteline inserts?




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