No acceleration past 3000rpm Manual mode

[86MLR]

Disconnect the battery for a hour or so.

If it's still a issue see the service department, warranty???

If it fixes it, yay.

If it comes back, see your service department, warranty??

Don't drive around keepin it pegged, you may have a major fueling issue, keeping it pegged may not be in the best interest of your valves and pistons.

Opinions may vary

[Grady]

Originally Posted by RZNT4R

Drive the car from cold until it warms up and make sure to reproduce the problem, keep it pegged against its 3000 "limit" for a while. During this drive, use both surface streets and highways.

Yes just like when a fuse keeps blowing, put a larger one in to see if it fixes it.

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Grady

Yes just like when a fuse keeps blowing, put a larger one in to see if it fixes it.

Yeap, cause that has never caused a fire and burnt a car to the ground.

And yes, I did see what you did there.

[RZNT4R]

Originally Posted by Grady

Yes just like when a fuse keeps blowing, put a larger one in to see if it fixes it.

Feel free to leave this thread and come back when you've figured things out a bit.

Forcing the pcm to log the error in 2 back to back drive cycles isn't like putting a bigger fuse in. If the pcm is limiting rpm in a certain condition, then that is an operating condition deemed as safe, operating at that setting is safe, doing it all day is safe, because it's an engine operation mode that was programmed in specifically to be safe.

Why do I recommend pegging it for a while? Because error detection often has a timed element to it, like the popular p219a and p119f, a cylinder had to miss precisely 400 times in a row for the error to detect. If his error code takes 15 seconds to confirm, staying on the 3000 Rev limit for 9 second isn't going to help.

He'll, I was diagnosing an Altima with a stuffed cat the other day, it took the car being unable to run above 1300 rpm, being only able to crawl forwards, and having missing cylinders for MINUTES before the check engine lit up.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by RZNT4R

Feel free to leave this thread and come back when you've figured things out a bit.

Forcing the pcm to log the error in 2 back to back drive cycles isn't like putting a bigger fuse in. If the pcm is limiting rpm in a certain condition, then that is an operating condition deemed as safe, operating at that setting is safe, doing it all day is safe, because it's an engine operation mode that was programmed in specifically to be safe.

Why do I recommend pegging it for a while? Because error detection often has a timed element to it, like the popular p219a and p119f, a cylinder had to miss precisely 400 times in a row for the error to detect. If his error code takes 15 seconds to confirm, staying on the 3000 Rev limit for 9 second isn't going to help.

He'll, I was diagnosing an Altima with a stuffed cat the other day, it took the car being unable to run above 1300 rpm, being only able to crawl forwards, and having missing cylinders for MINUTES before the check engine lit up.

You need a CEL to diagnose a plugged cat? If something is wrong diagnose it. Not hard to check actual values and see what's wrong, a fault code doesn't fix the car for you.

I've never had much luck pushing the issue on a half broken car. Quick way to send a rod through the block or burn down a piston.

If I take my car in and they're floating the valves while it's misfiring just to set a CEL.... I'd be taking my car elsewhere.

[Grady]

Originally Posted by RZNT4R

Feel free to leave this thread and come back when you've figured things out a bit.

I’m back.

[RZNT4R]

Originally Posted by maslin

You need a CEL to diagnose a plugged cat? If something is wrong diagnose it. Not hard to check actual values and see what's wrong, a fault code doesn't fix the car for you.

I've never had much luck pushing the issue on a half broken car. Quick way to send a rod through the block or burn down a piston.

If I take my car in and they're floating the valves while it's misfiring just to set a CEL.... I'd be taking my car elsewhere.

Jesus, the car is hitting limp at 3k, not floating the valves at 8. I'm not saying you need a cell to diagnose it, I'm saying it's insurance when dealing with a dealer for a warranty concern. I'm not saying I needed a cel for a plugged cat, I'm saying the car ran like crap for minutes before the pcm got off it's ass, not that it was part of the diagnostic process.

CONTEXT PEOPLE, CONTEXT.

Oh yeah, holding 3000 rpm is suuuuuuure to break it.

[maslin]

If it's leaning out and breaking up 3k will burn it down. If the torque converter is stuck open holding it at 3k will burn it down.

If there's an obvious problem, forcing the issue to prove a point will burn shit down.



Take to the car to the dealer. Tell them what's wrong. Pick it up when it's fixed.

[RZNT4R]

You've got to much faith in dealers, I've got customers that spent years pushing issues at the dealers only to get pumped full of bs, all for easy fixes, and some of them even had tsbs!

Heck, my 86 had the p219a/p119f and it took every effort to have the issues taken seriously, and it's STILL stick in bureaucracy.

Op said the car drive fine in D, not that it had a lack of power stopping the car around 3000 rpm. That does not point to a fueling issue, it points to a limp mode, which is a safe operating condition.

[Grady]

Yes a lot of dealers suck! You may have to help them with knowledge of proper operation so they fix it and do not give BS reasons why it is normal. With the description from OP limp mode sounds most likely. However there is no way to be 100% positive it is in limp mode from a post. CEL or not there is an issue that is covered under warranty. If it is not in limp mode and it is somthing else, then if the OP runs it at 3K and damages somthing (not likely but possible) it could be an fight to get warranty coverage. If the dealer takes it out and tries and craters the engine. No issue getting a new one.

[guybo]

Originally Posted by 860

just purchased a 2017 toyota 860 special edition about 3 weeks ago

Do nothing to anything. Have it towed back to the dealership (make sure THEY PAY), it's their problem. If you try to fix it and do anything including drive it, they may try to turn it around and make it YOUR problem.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by guybo

Do nothing to anything. Have it towed back to the dealership (make sure THEY PAY), it's their problem. If you try to fix it and do anything including drive it, they may try to turn it around and make it YOUR problem.

Sorry, we've determined the proper procedure is to drive it as hard as possible and make sure it is broken. Only then will the evil dealership be willing to unlock to doors to let him in.