Uneven camber with the camber plates maxed.

[fr-steezz]

Just as the title says I have bc coilovers and both camber plates are maxed out. But it’s very uneven. I have -3.2 on the passenger side and -4 on the driver side. Any idea why. I’ve tried doing my own research it couldn’t find anything. I got an alignment but one camber plate is still maxed out while the other side(driver side) has been adjusted to match the -3.2 degrees of camber on the passenger side

[yelsew]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

Just asthe title says I have bc coilovers and both camber plates are maxed out. But it’s very uneven. I have -3.2 on the passenger side and -4 on the driver side. Any idea why. I’ve tried doing my own research it couldn’t find anything. I got an alignment but one camber plate is still maxed out while the other side(driver side) has been adjusted to match the -3.2 degrees of camber on the passenger side

This isn't out of the ordinary. Each chassis will have its own native alignment due to manufacturing as well as driving the car such as, the positioning of the sub frame, the toe alignment, and any flex or settling of the frame itself. Its hard to manufacture an absolutely perfect car and keep it perfect throughout its life. My camber in the front is maxed out at -1.3 with camber bolts even though one side is capable of -1.8 with 0 toe.

Sorry but you are technically maxed at the least common measurement between the two sides.

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by yelsew

This isn't out of the ordinary. Each chassis will have its own native alignment due to manufacturing as well as driving the car such as, the positioning of the sub frame, the toe alignment, and any flex or settling of the frame itself. Its hard to manufacture an absolutely perfect car and keep it perfect throughout its life. My camber in the front is maxed out at -1.3 with camber bolts even though one side is capable of -1.8 with 0 toe.

Sorry but you are technically maxed at the least common measurement between the two sides.

My car also pulls to the left when accelerating and once off the gas it shoots back to the right and straightens out. This is after my alignment.

[wparsons]

Full alignment specs (or picture of the print out)? Who installed the suspension, is everything properly installed and torqued?

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Full alignment specs (or picture of the print out)? Who installed the suspension, is everything properly installed and torqued?

I have the specs at home I’ll get pic when I get off work. But I installed the coils my self and made sure everything was done correctly. Everything felt perfect when I was on stock wheels. But once I got new wheels and tires and an alignment it been driving terrible. I have 18x9.5 et+22 paired with 225/40r18

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

My car also pulls to the left when accelerating and once off the gas it shoots back to the right and straightens out. This is after my alignment.

This sounds like either low pressure on one of the rear tires or a bad rear tire.

[churchx]

- I wouldn't ever guide when aligning, just by position on camberplates. There are some variances between cars/parts, slack of mounts/bushings and as result more then possible differences between what is "max", "min" or specific position in between.
- Do camber on camber rig, where you see what alignment really is and dial to what you want to get to get those measurements right/even, ignoring, "what's measured on plates".
- Camber may naturally increase also from extra (driver's) weight. Usually way less then 0.8dg for you though, imho more like 0.1-0.2dg. But if one is anal about that, one may ask suspension techs to dial alignment while one sits in car.
- IF you have checked that tire pressures are even, and IF camber is even (as per alignment rig results, not by "maxed out") i'd suspect toe being out of whack / not even side to side or toe not properly set to track straight front vs rear. Worth remembering that on our cars changing toe changes also camber and vice versa, so hopefully they didn't just dial toe, and then separately camber, ignoring changes to toe from camber adjustment. But first thing i'd check (simplest/quickest/for free) would be tire pressures and if tires are mounted right (if tires are directional) on wheels.
- btw, do you track car? -3, -4 .. camber sounds way too much for car IF that is only daily driven (0 to -1.5dg for camber sounds more reasonable for DD use). One may have more grip when cornering very hard and fast (if on public roads, then usually that means one most of a time going way above speed limits / hooning / endangering self & others) with more static camber, but this is too much for just daily driven. As side ill-effects for too much camber for driving type there might be less grip in wet/worse grip in straight line/car more tending to follow longitudinal road groves, and uneven tire wear (inside edge).

[strat61caster]

Get camber bolts and balance the alignment that way instead of being uneven on the camber plates

[Racecomp Engineering]

I recommend setting your camber plates equally, and fine tuning with a camber bolt. This may help reduce your pull.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Get camber bolts and balance the alignment that way instead of being uneven on the camber plates

Beat me to it.

- Andrew

[tyler_win_photo]

Did you leave it at -3.2 R and -4.0 L? Maybe that's why your car is pulling.

[fr-steezz]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Full alignment specs (or picture of the print out)? Who installed the suspension, is everything properly installed and torqued?

Camber front left is -3.1. Front right is -3.2
Front left caster 6.1 front right caster 6.2
Front left toe. .02 front right toe .01
Back left camber -3.5 back right camber -3.4
Back left toe .10 back right toe .05

[Tristor]

Originally Posted by churchx

- btw, do you track car? -3, -4 .. camber sounds way too much for car IF that is only daily driven (0 to -1.5dg for camber sounds more reasonable for DD use). One may have more grip when cornering very hard and fast (if on public roads, then usually that means one most of a time going way above speed limits / hooning / endangering self & others) with more static camber, but this is too much for just daily driven. As side ill-effects for too much camber for driving type there might be less grip in wet/worse grip in straight line/car more tending to follow longitudinal road groves, and uneven tire wear (inside edge).

Good advice, but if you notice he is on 18x9.5" wheels with 225 section width tires. Sounds like this guy is focused on going full stretched tire tilty boi, so I don't think he is worried about having things like traction or even tire wear or endangering others on public roads.

[churchx]

Originally Posted by fr-steezz

Camber front left is -3.1. Front right is -3.2
Front left caster 6.1 front right caster 6.2
Front left toe. .02 front right toe .01
Back left camber -3.5 back right camber -3.4
Back left toe .10 back right toe .05

They certainly should have done better job on with toe, especially in rear. No wonder car with flooring or releasing gas turns a bit. Think of toe as presteered wheels to (toe-in) or from (toe-out, negative values) from centerline. Giving some beans, mass transfer to back, where one of wheels is more turned. Total track also doesn't look to me straight.
But wait, initially you mentioned -4 & -3.2 front camber. Did you dialed in more camber by yourself after this? Great chance to make alignment even worse, if done not on rig or with some extra measurement tools to show result of changes.