Camber options.

[yzf219]

Hey guys wondering how I should get more front camber. I am lowered 1.2 inches on springs. Have 14mm cam bolts in the bottom hole and crash bolts in the top hole. Currently maxed out a -1.8 camber. Would like to achieve -2.5.

So the options I have come up with are,

Option 1, Run a 16mm cam bolt in the strut top hole in addition to the 14mm cam bolt I already have in the bottom hole.

Option 2, slot the top hole in the strut and continue to use the 14mm crash bolt in the top hole along with the 14mm camber bolt in the bottom hole.

Option 3, slot the 3 holes where the strut mounts to the body. However I'm of the understanding that camber at the hub is more desirable than camber achieved at the top of the strut.


Forgot to mention that I do not want to run camber plates as they are far too expensive.

Thanks for the help.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Hey guys, wondering how I should proceed. I'm lowered on springs about 1.2 inches. In the front I already have a 14mm camber bolt in the bottom strut hole that is maxed out and the 14mm crash bolt in the top strut hole. Which gives me about -1.8 camber. I would like to get around -2.5.

So my question is, should I replace the 14mm crash bolt that I currently have in the top hole with a 16mm cammed bolt and run camber bolts top and bottom?

Or should I slot the top hole of the bottom strut Mount?

Or should I slot the 3 holes at the top of the strut where the top hat mounts to?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

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Get camber plates? Never used them but it seems like that's what they're for. Otherwise I believe the way it's usually done is another cam bolt in the top hole

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[finch1750]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Hey guys wondering how I should get more front camber. I am lowered 1.2 inches on springs. Have 14mm cam bolts in the bottom hole and crash bolts in the top hole. Currently maxed out a -1.8 camber. Would like to achieve -2.5.

So the options I have come up with are,

Option 1, Run a 16mm cam bolt in the strut top hole in addition to the 14mm cam bolt I already have in the bottom hole.

Option 2, slot the top hole in the strut and continue to use the 14mm crash bolt in the top hole along with the 14mm camber bolt in the bottom hole.

Option 3, slot the 3 holes where the strut mounts to the body. However I'm of the understanding that camber at the hub is more desirable than camber achieved at the top of the strut.


Forgot to mention that I do not want to run camber plates as they are far too expensive.

Thanks for the help.

find a different alignment shop. You should be able to get -2.5 from that set-up, or at least very close to it.

I dont believe option 1 will benefit any more than current. Option 2 could but I don't think it's necessary. I dont know that I would cut my strut tower in any way like Option 3

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by finch1750

find a different alignment shop. You should be able to get -2.5 from that set-up, or at least very close to it.



I dont believe option 1 will benefit any more than current. Option 2 could but I don't think it's necessary. I dont know that I would cut my strut tower in any way like Option 3

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. Everyone else seems to be getting more camber than me. I installed and set the camber myself as well as aligned it using the string method. I only loosened one strut bolt at a time and tried to find all the camber I could by loosening the top nut, pushing the rotor in then tightening the top nut. Then undoing the bottom nut, pulling the rotor out then tightening the nut. I think I may need to loosen both top and bottom bolts at once and push the rotor in at the top while pulling the bottom of the rotor out at the same time? Reason why I did it one at a time is cause I only have one set of hands.

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[TommyW]

Camber plates are much better than screwing around with bolts plus you have a lot more options.

[Tcoat]

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Camber plates are much better than screwing around with bolts plus you have a lot more options.

I was under the impression based on my reading that camber added via plates isn't as desirable as camber via the hub due to something called SAI? I don't really understand it, it's just what I read.

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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

AutoX, tires are getting way warmer on the outside edge compared to the inside. The wheels are from the previous owner but they look to be 17x8 on 235/45 S04 Pole Position 280tw.

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[RToyo86]

Pedders top mounts are an option.

[PetrolioBenzina]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

Cut! I want to see what happens.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. Everyone else seems to be getting more camber than me. I installed and set the camber myself as well as aligned it using the string method. I only loosened one strut bolt at a time and tried to find all the camber I could by loosening the top nut, pushing the rotor in then tightening the top nut. Then undoing the bottom nut, pulling the rotor out then tightening the nut. I think I may need to loosen both top and bottom bolts at once and push the rotor in at the top while pulling the bottom of the rotor out at the same time? Reason why I did it one at a time is cause I only have one set of hands.

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the bottom bolt is eccentric right? That means you gain camber by turning it not by pulling/pushing the hub. You got the first part right about adjusting the top bolt first.

also getting camber from plates is fine. Sometimes its the only way

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by finch1750

the bottom bolt is eccentric right? That means you gain camber by turning it not by pulling/pushing the hub. You got the first part right about adjusting the top bolt first.

also getting camber from plates is fine. Sometimes its the only way

Yes bottom bolt is an eccentric bolt. I'll try again and see if I get more camber.

Do you perhaps think it could be from my drop that I'm not getting enough camber? From my understanding our cars being a MacPherson design in front and only gains camber up to 1" of travel anything after we lose camber? So if I'm dropped 1.2" could that be where some of my camber is going?

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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Pedders top mounts are an option.

Thanks for the suggestion, these are much better priced than the other top mounts I was looking at.

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[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Yes bottom bolt is an eccentric bolt. I'll try again and see if I get more camber.

Do you perhaps think it could be from my drop that I'm not getting enough camber? From my understanding our cars being a MacPherson design in front and only gains camber up to 1" of travel anything after we lose camber? So if I'm dropped 1.2" could that be where some of my camber is going?

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I suspect you're just not adjusted properly. He's right about the eccentric bolt, you have to turn the bolt to change the camber position, not pull on the hub.

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