first maintenance need help!!!!

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

right now my car is 7k
being on track once
and i always heel and toe
so here is my maintenance plan
1.engine oil motul b100 ow20
2.oil filter hks
3.air filter k&n
4.transmission oil motul gear 300
5.brake fluid project mu 335
6.brake pad roject mu club racer pad
7.rotor bda 500
8.brake line stoptech stainless steel

any suggestion ?
am i get everything right ?
first maintenance need help!!!!

[Firecruiser]

I only see 1 liter of oil in your cart. Spec says 5.4L of oil.

I don't track my car right now so maybe there's some magic there but no way i would spend $110 a liter for brake fluid. ATE type 200 or super blue if you can get it is dot 4 and like $20 a liter.

Anything particularly wrong with the oem oil filter? It seems to be the consensus choice around here and I can usually pick one up for $12 or less.

I'm out of my league when it comes to pads and rotors for track use. I've not seen anywhere that slotted rotors provide huge benefits. Only thing i've heard is that it can help with bite a bit. Have you had brake issues on the track before? Fade? Personally I would run oem rotors and I can usually find them for <$50 a rotor.

Someone will probably come along with more track knowledge and can help you out with some of the details and fill in for my lack of knowledge.

[hyper4mance]

You may want to pickup a heavier oil since track temps thin the oil too much. IMO its worthwhile to get a baffled oil catch can as well. If you plan on tracking often, pickup a spare coil in case cyl 1 goes (p351 CEL) and put some heat tape or something to protect it from going bad. Also wrap the existing coil (front passenger side = cyl 1). Its good practice to know how to wrench certain items before you get in a bad situation so you aren't twiddling your thumbs at the track. Don't worry its really simple, just remove 3 bolts on the ecu on the passenger side and move it out of the way. The plugs are a bit trickier but really easy if you have a deep socket and a 3" extension.

It seems like you may be new to tracking based on your question. More expensive parts don't always mean its the best. IMO its absurd to spend that much on brake fluid and oil filter. As Firecruiser stated the oem filter and ATE 200 works perfectly, both I also use. Just a thought and I may be anal about this, but I changed my trans fluid pretty early with a few thousand miles just for a peace of mind to ensure no metal shavings were present before driving it hard. When I drained it, I didn't see much foreign matter at all so it should be ok if you don't.

Once you start regularly going to the track pickup a spare set of rotors, pads, and calipers as a backup. Have fun, be safe, and keep your ego at home.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by Firecruiser

I only see 1 liter of oil in your cart. Spec says 5.4L of oil.

I don't track my car right now so maybe there's some magic there but no way i would spend $110 a liter for brake fluid. ATE type 200 or super blue if you can get it is dot 4 and like $20 a liter.

Anything particularly wrong with the oem oil filter? It seems to be the consensus choice around here and I can usually pick one up for $12 or less.

I'm out of my league when it comes to pads and rotors for track use. I've not seen anywhere that slotted rotors provide huge benefits. Only thing i've heard is that it can help with bite a bit. Have you had brake issues on the track before? Fade? Personally I would run oem rotors and I can usually find them for <$50 a rotor.

Someone will probably come along with more track knowledge and can help you out with some of the details and fill in for my lack of knowledge.

thx for let me know the engine oil was short! i need 6 in there, i find it out when i double check the part!!!
yea that brake fluid is soooo expensive, would give it try tho! since it is going to be one or two years for another change
it was a bad choice for a drill rotor tho, i found a video that says slotted rotors have better performances. but anyway already ordered!

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by hyper4mance

You may want to pickup a heavier oil since track temps thin the oil too much. IMO its worthwhile to get a baffled oil catch can as well. If you plan on tracking often, pickup a spare coil in case cyl 1 goes (p351 CEL) and put some heat tape or something to protect it from going bad. Also wrap the existing coil (front passenger side = cyl 1). Its good practice to know how to wrench certain items before you get in a bad situation so you aren't twiddling your thumbs at the track. Don't worry its really simple, just remove 3 bolts on the ecu on the passenger side and move it out of the way. The plugs are a bit trickier but really easy if you have a deep socket and a 3" extension.

It seems like you may be new to tracking based on your question. More expensive parts don't always mean its the best. IMO its absurd to spend that much on brake fluid and oil filter. As Firecruiser stated the oem filter and ATE 200 works perfectly, both I also use. Just a thought and I may be anal about this, but I changed my trans fluid pretty early with a few thousand miles just for a peace of mind to ensure no metal shavings were present before driving it hard. When I drained it, I didn't see much foreign matter at all so it should be ok if you don't.

Once you start regularly going to the track pickup a spare set of rotors, pads, and calipers as a backup. Have fun, be safe, and keep your ego at home.

that was sooo hard for me , i dont have all the tools!!!!
being track 3 times with everything stock scion 2016 frs

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13lZnjhTLsE&t=734s[/ame]

and 1 time with everything stock 2017 toyota 86

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1EizPUCOM[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLkvgboMOw0[/ame]
welcome to give some tips on track day !!!!!

time to mod the car, i need better tires and brake

so that lead me to this mod
my brake was no bite at top range will got little bite in middle range bottom was fine tho
find it out when i entry the track and waiting for take off after each section, also on the way back to home from the track
that is my first time mod brakes tho
also the first time for me to maintenance the car
hope the best
maybe i will just give all the part to Toyota dealer and ask them to do it
or i got one of my friend who did maintenance all the time to his nd mx5
still thinking which one is best
i am more preferring to my friend which i can study those thing and do it my self next time
we did mxp rs ti tip cat back together that was lots of fun!!!
already buy the enkei rpf1 wheels with 17x8 +45 with re71 245 40 17
should be a huge improve for my lap times
yea i think the oil filter maybe a bad move, already ordered
will give it try.
next time maybe just back to oem filter
yea one of my friends also said that, don't knowing much sooo better keep it factor recommend
thx for all the help tho

[hyper4mance]

I'll watch the other vids later, just fast fwd'd thru parts of the 1st vid. A few comments on that:
-both hands should always be on the wheel. The only time your right hand isn't, is when you shift. Many times you have your right hand resting before you shift.
-the video is a bit washed out and the camera angle is hard to tell whether you are hitting your marks consistently. What I mean by that is the same point to turn in, apex, and track out. You want to achieve inch (or cm in your case... lol) perfect marks in using ALL the track.
-hard to tell braking as well, but identify markers that do no move. Most tracks will have countdown signs, but not all turns will have them. In the case where they do not, use for example the start of the rumble strip or a unique tree to gauge where to brake and turn in. Typically the most time to be found is in the development of how and when you brake. It is totally different from street driving. Brake hard and firm and be ready to manually pulse in the event of squirming- ALWAYS in a straight line. Then slowly release the brake, turn in, start to apply throttle around apex, unwind while smoothly going to maximum throttle. As the brake pedal goes up, your gas goes down.
-I'm sure you've heard this a million times - look farther ahead and thru the car in front. Nothing should be a surprise by the time you get to it. Most of the 1st vid you were following the miata and on corner exit, it was pulling on you. Why? - his exit speed was much higher. I like to experiment with different lines when following, super late apex (this is NOT the same as late braking) or the traditional line to get a feel for what is better to setup for the next turn. Depending on the radius of the turn, you should either begin application of throttle or already be flat footed. My guess is the combination of the amount of braking and when the miata started throttle is why they were pulling on you.

Overall pretty good for only a handful of events. Good to see that your wheel inputs are smooth and constant, not sawing back and forth. If you get a chance have an instructor help you with how to oversteer out of tight turns using your right foot to maximize exit speed. Tires would be the best single item to invest in for quicker laps, but your focus should be on the appropriate lines at this stage. I personally run on 17x8 wheels with 245/40 tires, some do 17x9 with 255 tires. The sky is the limit on compound, but for us mere mortals where cost is always a factor do your research on price vs grip vs durability vs responsiveness. Brakes are a close second - I run WRX fronts since they are super easy to swap pads.

If you have a gaming console/computer, I've found that a a driving simulator like project cars and a wheel helped me practice offtrack without risk of physical harm.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by hyper4mance

I'll watch the other vids later, just fast fwd'd thru parts of the 1st vid. A few comments on that:
-both hands should always be on the wheel. The only time your right hand isn't, is when you shift. Many times you have your right hand resting before you shift.
-the video is a bit washed out and the camera angle is hard to tell whether you are hitting your marks consistently. What I mean by that is the same point to turn in, apex, and track out. You want to achieve inch (or cm in your case... lol) perfect marks in using ALL the track.
-hard to tell braking as well, but identify markers that do no move. Most tracks will have countdown signs, but not all turns will have them. In the case where they do not, use for example the start of the rumble strip or a unique tree to gauge where to brake and turn in. Typically the most time to be found is in the development of how and when you brake. It is totally different from street driving. Brake hard and firm and be ready to manually pulse in the event of squirming- ALWAYS in a straight line. Then slowly release the brake, turn in, start to apply throttle around apex, unwind while smoothly going to maximum throttle. As the brake pedal goes up, your gas goes down.
-I'm sure you've heard this a million times - look farther ahead and thru the car in front. Nothing should be a surprise by the time you get to it. Most of the 1st vid you were following the miata and on corner exit, it was pulling on you. Why? - his exit speed was much higher. I like to experiment with different lines when following, super late apex (this is NOT the same as late braking) or the traditional line to get a feel for what is better to setup for the next turn. Depending on the radius of the turn, you should either begin application of throttle or already be flat footed. My guess is the combination of the amount of braking and when the miata started throttle is why they were pulling on you.

Overall pretty good for only a handful of events. Good to see that your wheel inputs are smooth and constant, not sawing back and forth. If you get a chance have an instructor help you with how to oversteer out of tight turns using your right foot to maximize exit speed. Tires would be the best single item to invest in for quicker laps, but your focus should be on the appropriate lines at this stage. I personally run on 17x8 wheels with 245/40 tires, some do 17x9 with 255 tires. The sky is the limit on compound, but for us mere mortals where cost is always a factor do your research on price vs grip vs durability vs responsiveness. Brakes are a close second - I run WRX fronts since they are super easy to swap pads.

If you have a gaming console/computer, I've found that a a driving simulator like project cars and a wheel helped me practice offtrack without risk of physical harm.

that mx5 is on re71 and i am on stock tires which also been used at drift school once, and all the turn is either 90 or 180 where i am still fighting with grip on corner exit he could just get grip and floor the pedal . that s the reason i lost it on straight line and up hills
also i think nd is a bit fast on acceleration from 60km to 100km
nd mx5 has higher rate for weight/power
also on the first video where the braking zone l am brake early, i just lift the gas pedal for some safety space,
he is down shift where i don't it will be way to close to him if i dont brake early!

u should check my second video, i improve my lap time by 3 secs
and i was chasing on a evo automatic!!!!
still on stock tires but i keep them like new never burnout or drift just for that trackday
hoping hear some feed back!!!!

[Bonburner]

surprised nobody mentioned an oil cooler

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by Bonburner

surprised nobody mentioned an oil cooler

Yea after 10k my coolant is below half now

[NCtoBRZ]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

that mx5 is on re71 and i am on stock tires which also been used at drift school once, and all the turn is either 90 or 180 where i am still fighting with grip on corner exit he could just get grip and floor the pedal . that s the reason i lost it on straight line and up hills
also i think nd is a bit fast on acceleration from 60km to 100km
nd mx5 has higher rate for weight/power
also on the first video where the braking zone l am brake early, i just lift the gas pedal for some safety space,
he is down shift where i don't it will be way to close to him if i dont brake early!

u should check my second video, i improve my lap time by 3 secs
and i was chasing on a evo automatic!!!!
still on stock tires but i keep them like new never burnout or drift just for that trackday
hoping hear some feed back!!!!

The ND is actually a bit quicker 0-60 than the twins, the twins pull ahead at higher speeds.
It’s a common misconception they the ND has a better power to weight ratio than the twins, just do the math and you’ll see that isn’t true:
ND Miata 2,332 lbs. / 155 horsepower = 15.05 lbs. for each horse to move
Twins 2,774 lbs. / 200-205 horsepower = 13.87-13.53 lbs. for each horse to move

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by NCtoBRZ

The ND is actually a bit quicker 0-60 than the twins, the twins pull ahead at higher speeds.
It’s a common misconception they the ND has a better power to weight ratio than the twins, just do the math and you’ll see that isn’t true:
ND Miata 2,332 lbs. / 155 horsepower = 15.05 lbs. for each horse to move
Twins 2,774 lbs. / 200-205 horsepower = 13.87-13.53 lbs. for each horse to move

yes that true, but it just really pull from me.
no matter what, i am slower than nd at that time

just done some change to my car, really want test them out

earliest track day on august tho

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

some feed back on my firstmaintenance
motul 8100 for engine
motul 300 for transs
motul 300ls for diff
have not using the project mu brake fluid yet

hawk dtc-60 for front brake pad cause project mu race club is back order 2 months already
stoptech rotors and brakeline


k&n drop in air filter
k&n oil filter


refill my coolant it was going sooo fast 10k already used it to half between min and max marks


here is my feedback


did everything on 10k
engine transmission diff
much smooth

most important is my squeal setup enkei rpf1 17x8 +45 on re71r 245 40 17

for hawk dtc-60 brake pads

too much brake dust for daily drive but good feeling tho
could use for daily drive without any problem if u can live with brake dust
and little bit squeeze sound

for me i like that sound


first wheel pic is took after i bedding my pad and rotor

20 mins drive 3 time slow 100 to 20 braking follow with 3 time hard braking then 15 mins cursing

to compare how much brake dust on that run

the second pic is my rear wheel
i think i did smell some brake on my second hard braking



that curve map is what i am feeling from daily drive it

black is the oem pad
red is the hawk dtc 60
rush drawing just a idea!


overall really enjoy my set up 10 out of 10

[NyC Zn6]

I've had leaking issues with the HKS oil filter. The O-ring that was provided on mine was damaged. Just look out for this as it was shipped directly from HKS to me.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by NyC Zn6

I've had leaking issues with the HKS oil filter. The O-ring that was provided on mine was damaged. Just look out for this as it was shipped directly from HKS to me.

I went to use k&n oil filter
Hks was back order 2 months lead me change
To k&n

Last month when I got my rims , one of them was
Damaged on lip I did order another one
Get my lesson check every thing when I got the item