2016 BRZ Head Unit Wiring Harness

[Joon525]

Originally Posted by soilent

Okay, sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm looking into replacing my head unit now and noticed this new harness. Can anyone confirm that this works? Some websites say that it will not "fit" a 2016 BRZ. Is anyone using it? Thanks.

I didn't just post about it, I used it too. The pins may have to be straightened out for you to use it though. I had to de-pin it, snap the harnesses together and then re-insert the pins. Some others didn't have to do this though.
If you read the comment on Amazon you'll see others had the same problem.

This thread is also worth reading.

[soilent]

Originally Posted by Joon525

I didn't just post about it, I used it too. The pins may have to be straightened out for you to use it though. I had to de-pin it, snap the harnesses together and then re-insert the pins. Some others didn't have to do this though.
If you read the comment on Amazon you'll see others had the same problem.

This thread is also worth reading.

But so it does work, I just have to fiddle with it, yes? Would recommend getting that one or just going the normal route with the Drok converter and wiring that in myself?

[Joon525]

Originally Posted by soilent

But so it does work, I just have to fiddle with it, yes? Would recommend getting that one or just going the normal route with the Drok converter and wiring that in myself?

Option 1

1. Try it, you might have it work nicely out of the box.
2. If it doesn't work, try bending the pins OR removing them and re-inserting them after the two harnesses are plugged in.

Option 2
Go another route of any kind.

To give you a bottom line answer, I say go with option 1.
I used it and I have everything working and I didn't strip a single wire that was already in the car.

[kothetimeless]

Originally Posted by Akuma147

Got everything finally working. Took me a lot of reading in this thread and the Joying thread, but got everything figured out. I like to thank Luftwaffel, Pointmutation, sLoPy, and everyone else in this thread and the Joying thread for all the great information, especially SVXdc for all the detailed information about the harnesses and wiring.

I got the steering wheel controls working, OEM backup camera working, OEM AUX port works, waiting for the USB harness to come in the mail, but that should be an easy plug and play. If anyone needs help with the install for either the 2017 BRZ model or the 2016 BRZ, which is pretty much the same OEM HU, then feel free to ask me.

To anyone attempting this, the only things you need are:

1) Universal Toyota Harness (came with the Joying Android head unit). The 10-pin and 6-pin for the speakers are already wired up and ready to plug and play. It also includes a 20-pin connector that has the 3 wires for the steering wheel control. You can discard the 20-pin connector, but keep the 3 wires if you want to retain steering wheel control (pink-key1, brown-key2, and black-ground)

2) Metra 40-LX11 - For the Radio Antenna

3) AX-SUB28SWC - for the 28-pin connector. This thing is a godsend. Everything is pretty much wired for you already if you want to keep the OEM camera, aux port, and steering wheel controls. You just need to remove the ground wire from pin 14. I didn't use pin 15 for parking brake, and pin 17 for vehicle speed, so I removed those. I took one of those wires and put it in pin 9 for AMP power. The steering wheel controls are in the exact perfect place, pin 21 to 23. The Aux wires were also perfect, being in pin 26 to 28. Pin 25 says Aux Enable, this is not needed as it is empty and still works fine.

4) DROK 12V to 6V converter for the OEM backup camera.

5) AX-SUBUSB2 - For using the OEM USB port. This hasn't arrived in the mail yet and should be here next week, so I will update this when I confirm it working.
*Update* I can confirm that this usb cable works perfectly. I can use the OEM usb port now.

Everything was pretty much smooth sailing except getting power to the AMP (and door speakers), this took me a LONG time to figure out and a lot of reading on the forums. There was conflicting information about the blue antenna wire, the antenna power wire, and moving from pin 8 to pin 9 on the 10-pin connector. I can't say anything about previous years models, but on the 2017 BRZ (and maybe the 2016 BRZ, not quite sure) but it is not necessary to move from pin 8 to pin 9 on the 10-pin connector. It is already aligned correctly with the Toyota Harness. Previous information said put the blue antenna wire onto the Antenna Power, other information said not to connect the blue antenna wire to anything as it's not needed and to put the AMP power on the Antenna Power, since the BRZ doesn't have AMP power on the 10-pin connector.

My mistake was I put the AMP power on the Antenna Power on pin 9, which didn't work. I couldn't find any information on where to put the AMP power, as the BRZ doesn't have it on the 10-pin connector and most likely an FRS thing. Then I looked at the 28-pinout and there it was, pin 9 of that connector! not the 10-pin connector.

So, to summarize, I did connect the blue antenna wire to antenna power on pin 9 of 10-pin connector and connected the AMP power to pin 9 of the 28-pin connector. That fixed my issue and now the AMP and front speakers are working.

Regarding the mysterious black/blue wire I posted above, I'm still not sure what that is. My guess is it's the antenna booster. I left it untouched and dangling there with no apparent usage. Pin 21-23 was indeed for the steering wheel control.

I can do a more thorough write up if anyone needs help, but it'll take a bit of time to write up, so please let me know if it's necessary.

Overall, I am extremely happy that everything is working correctly with the OEM parts and functions and no OEM wires were cut or messed with, so I can return to factory if necessary in the future.

Akuma! I've been following all your posts on your 2017 BRZ Head Unit swap. Amazing. I have everything set up from OEM camera, AUX, amp, USB, antenna, etc.

However I have two last questions...

1) SWC: I see that I can tap into pin 21-23 of the 28 pin connector for the appropriate wires... BUT where do those wires connect to on the HU? I am using a Pioneer AVIC-5200NEX. Because of this I got a different wire harness which included the 10 & 6 pin connectors and then I bought the 28 pin connector separately. Any idea what wires I need to pull from the HU to tap into 21-23? I did buy these but don't know if these are the only things I need:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00B4PJC...=bit_pcomp_ask

*UPDATE* I figured out the steering wheel controls. I basically needed to use the ASWC-1 by Metra/Axxess and in theory that should be hooked up. All I'm left with is the microphone.

2) OEM Microphone. Any idea on this? I would love to retain the OEM microphone but have had no success researching this.

*UPDATE* I did some more reading... looks like I'm going to have to splice the microphone cables {Pin 4: Mic Power 5V, Pin 5: Mic Signal, Pin 6: Mic Detect) But... I don't know how to satisfy all these wires with just my 3.5mm jack input on my HU

[kothetimeless]

Originally Posted by sLoPy

I'm actually in the same boat. I have a 2016 BRZ with Starlink Radio and I'm currently in process of replacing it with an Android based radio while trying to retaining my factor Microphone, USB, Radio Antenna, Aux Input, and Backup Camera. I'm very close. Just need to finish up my custom harnesses (waiting on capacitors to arrive).


I've compiled a pin out for the 28pin connector after extensive search on google and pinning out the radio wiring in my car. I've attached a picture of the pin outs. Hopefully this helps.


The 16 pin connector (10pin and 6pin connector) are essentially the same as the previous years BRZ except for the relocation of the Amp signal. As Luftwaffel originally pointed out, the Amp signal has been moved to Pin 9 (Brown wire) of the 28pin connector.

Any luck with the OEM microphone?

[Akuma147]

Originally Posted by kothetimeless

2) OEM Microphone. Any idea on this? I would love to retain the OEM microphone but have had no success researching this.

*UPDATE* I did some more reading... looks like I'm going to have to splice the microphone cables {Pin 4: Mic Power 5V, Pin 5: Mic Signal, Pin 6: Mic Detect) But... I don't know how to satisfy all these wires with just my 3.5mm jack input on my HU

Sorry, not much help because I haven't done it, but look at this thread here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=923715

Also you can use the pinout here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=22

I've given up on trying to retain the OEM mic. I've tried a few different mic positions, so you might wanna try these if the above doesn't work out:

1) The position in my guide with the mic sticking out of the head unit. A little stealthy, almost behind the steering wheel, but still noticeable. Works good, but I don't like how it's just dangling there.

2) I tried running an aftermarket mic from the HU, up the A pillar on the passenger side, behind the rear view mirror, under the roof headliner, and then into where the OEM mic is located. It's actually pretty simple and the wire is hidden. It's very simple to remove the OEM mic (just press on the two notches) and place the aftermarket mic into the original mic's position. Unfortunately, that OEM position isn't very good and it seems to pick up a lot of noise. Looks great, just like OEM, but not very useful.

3) Put the mic behind the steering wheel. There's a little area behind the steering wheel where there's a piece of plastic and the leather meet. I used the mic clip and clipped it onto the plastic piece, so the mic is right behind the steering wheel. It's very stealthy and the driver will be the only one who will notice the mic behind the wheel. This actually works pretty well, as the instrument cluster and the wheel blocks all noise, like a/c or wind.

[vintagemxer]

Originally Posted by Akuma147

Sorry, not much help because I haven't done it, but look at this thread here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=923715

Also you can use the pinout here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=22

I've given up on trying to retain the OEM mic. I've tried a few different mic positions, so you might wanna try these if the above doesn't work out:

1) The position in my guide with the mic sticking out of the head unit. A little stealthy, almost behind the steering wheel, but still noticeable. Works good, but I don't like how it's just dangling there.

2) I tried running an aftermarket mic from the HU, up the A pillar on the passenger side, behind the rear view mirror, under the roof headliner, and then into where the OEM mic is located. It's actually pretty simple and the wire is hidden. It's very simple to remove the OEM mic (just press on the two notches) and place the aftermarket mic into the original mic's position. Unfortunately, that OEM position isn't very good and it seems to pick up a lot of noise. Looks great, just like OEM, but not very useful.

3) Put the mic behind the steering wheel. There's a little area behind the steering wheel where there's a piece of plastic and the leather meet. I used the mic clip and clipped it onto the plastic piece, so the mic is right behind the steering wheel. It's very stealthy and the driver will be the only one who will notice the mic behind the wheel. This actually works pretty well, as the instrument cluster and the wheel blocks all noise, like a/c or wind.

Pictures ?

[007BRZ]

Go http://www.autoharnesshouse.com
And buy the dam harness from them instead of writing a dam book.i
I've got everything working and just ordered a harness to attach my 2017 BRZ CAMERA
To my Kenwood DNS893S. The rest of my cables came from Crutchfield.
They also have the black spacers for each side of aftermarket headunits
To fill the space using a rectangular cover. I have a 2017 Toyota86 single piece dash unit cover Out on an "86" 2017 Special Edition for sale.

[kothetimeless]

Originally Posted by Akuma147

Sorry, not much help because I haven't done it, but look at this thread here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=923715

Also you can use the pinout here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=22

I've given up on trying to retain the OEM mic. I've tried a few different mic positions, so you might wanna try these if the above doesn't work out:

1) The position in my guide with the mic sticking out of the head unit. A little stealthy, almost behind the steering wheel, but still noticeable. Works good, but I don't like how it's just dangling there.

2) I tried running an aftermarket mic from the HU, up the A pillar on the passenger side, behind the rear view mirror, under the roof headliner, and then into where the OEM mic is located. It's actually pretty simple and the wire is hidden. It's very simple to remove the OEM mic (just press on the two notches) and place the aftermarket mic into the original mic's position. Unfortunately, that OEM position isn't very good and it seems to pick up a lot of noise. Looks great, just like OEM, but not very useful.

3) Put the mic behind the steering wheel. There's a little area behind the steering wheel where there's a piece of plastic and the leather meet. I used the mic clip and clipped it onto the plastic piece, so the mic is right behind the steering wheel. It's very stealthy and the driver will be the only one who will notice the mic behind the wheel. This actually works pretty well, as the instrument cluster and the wheel blocks all noise, like a/c or wind.

HAHA yes I used that thread and pinout as my main guides besides your DIY guide. (Thanks for those btw)

I have the reverse cam, bluetooth and GPS working. I am trying to get the SWC and Mic working and thats it.

I read some stuff about the 5 mic pins in the 28connector:

Pin 4: Mic power (5v) - (I am going to buy a DROK 12 to 5v converter and do similar things as you instructed with the reverse cam... also I noticed I can maybe tap one of my HU's USB ports for 5V? Thoughts?)
Pin 5: (Mic +) - Positive wire of spliced 2.5mm mono that goes into HU
Pin 6: Mic Detect - I sent to chasis ground
Pin 18: Mic Shield Ground - I sent to chasis ground
Pin 19: (Mic -) - Negative wire of spliced 2.5mm mono that goes into HU

[kothetimeless]

So the back of a pioneer has 2 USB with power slots. I cut up a USB wire, deaded the data +/- wires, spliced the power+ (5v) wire to the pin 4 mic amp power, and sent the USB power- to chasis ground.

Worked like a charm!! If your head unit does not have USB slots in the back, I'm sure you can use a similar method to the reverse cam (12v to 5v converter, tap ignition 12v wire) for the same effect. So here is the FINAL pin arrangement that I can confirm works:

Pin 4: Mic power (5v) - Tap one of my HU's USB ports for 5V OR if you don't have a spare USB slot... Buy a DROK 12 to 5v converter and do similar things as you instructed with the reverse cam
Pin 5: (Mic +) - Positive wire of spliced 2.5mm mono that goes into HU
Pin 6: Mic Detect - I sent to chasis ground
Pin 18: Mic Shield Ground - I sent to chasis ground
Pin 19: (Mic -) - Negative wire of spliced 2.5mm mono that goes into HU

@Akuma147 @Joon525 @vintagemxer @007BRZ

Originally Posted by kothetimeless

HAHA yes I used that thread and pinout as my main guides besides your DIY guide. (Thanks for those btw)

I have the reverse cam, bluetooth and GPS working. I am trying to get the SWC and Mic working and thats it.

I read some stuff about the 5 mic pins in the 28connector:

Pin 4: Mic power (5v) - (I am going to buy a DROK 12 to 5v converter and do similar things as you instructed with the reverse cam... also I noticed I can maybe tap one of my HU's USB ports for 5V? Thoughts?)
Pin 5: (Mic +) - Positive wire of spliced 2.5mm mono that goes into HU
Pin 6: Mic Detect - I sent to chasis ground
Pin 18: Mic Shield Ground - I sent to chasis ground
Pin 19: (Mic -) - Negative wire of spliced 2.5mm mono that goes into HU

[kothetimeless]

Onto the next issue. I realized that the ASWC-1 SORT OF works for the BRZ... axxessinterfaces.com still does not have the 2017 BRZ programmed I believe yet. Eventually they will? I will call their customer service tomorrow.

But a note to Pioneer users. You do NOT connect the ASWC-1's 3.5mm jack to your AUX in as some directions say... you must connect it to the 3.5mm jack titled "W/R" behind your unit.

However upon doing so, I successfully can control ....some thing. This is my mapping that I cannot customize and as is:

Button: Effect
Volume up : Next track/preset +
Volume down: Next track/preset +
Seek/preset up (right): next track/preset +
Seek/preset down (left): Previous track/preset -
Enter (center): Nothing
Source: Source
On hook: Nothing
Off hook: Nothing
PTT: Source
Back: Nothing
Right side omnidirectional works still with the onboard dash computer in the gauges
cruise control still works correctly

[kothetimeless]

the ASWC-1 worked for the volume, source, seek/preset buttons and the center "enter" button became the "ATT" button. However I did lose the on/off hook and PTT button functionality. Maybe I can custom program them but we'll see. Here is the ASWC-1 configuration as given to me from an Axxess customer service rep... Jerry. He's the man.


Hello when installing the ASWC-1 into your BRZ you will want to wire it as follows,

Gray/red wire of ASWC-1 to pin# 22 of the vehicle
Gray/blue of the ASWC-1 to pin# 21 of the vehicle
Black/green of the ASWC-1 will go to chassis ground
Pin#23 of the vehicle to chassis ground.

You will want to reset the ASWC-1 by holding the reset button down for 3 seconds then push and hold the volume up on the steering wheel until the light starts flashing green then release.

I have attached a copy to the installation instructions that will apply to your vehicle.

https://metradealer.com/files/aswc/ASWC-1_INST_959.pdf

After you get it all installed and working please let me know how it worked out for you.

Thank you,



Jerry Ferguson
Technical Support Specialist
Metra Electronics
1-800-253-TECH (8324)

[drew_kar]

I have a 2016 head unit and dash installed on my 2013. I got it for free, but my door speakers obviously aren't firing. Does anyone have a solution to this? I have read this entire thread, but I'm still confused on what to do. Thanks.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[treminaor]

Originally Posted by drew_kar

I have a 2016 head unit and dash installed on my 2013. I got it for free, but my door speakers obviously aren't firing. Does anyone have a solution to this? I have read this entire thread, but I'm still confused on what to do. Thanks.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Use the wiring diagrams for the 2016 harness to match up the door speaker wires to the 2013 harness