Noisy Wilwoods

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Humor us and walk us through the steps you did as you recall them.

Here's the info from Wilwood for reference sake. I try to to follow this as best I can.:

Begin with a series of light decelerations to gradually build some heat in the brakes. Use an on-and-off the pedal technique by applying the brakes for 3-5 seconds, and then allow them to fully release for a period roughly twice as long as the deceleration cycle. If you use a 5 count during the deceleration interval, use a 10 count during the release to allow the heat to sink into the pads & rotors.

After several cycles of light stops to begin warming the brakes, proceed with a series of medium to firm deceleration stops to continue raising the temperature level in the brakes.

Finish the bedding cycle with a series of 8-10 hard decelerations from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH while allowing a proportionate release and heat-sinking interval between each stop. The pads should now be providing positive and consistent response.

If any amount of brake fade is observed during the bed-in cycle, immediately begin the cool down cycle.

Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

Glad to know it seems to be common. What do you have in mind for grease?

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Was gonna try this stuff since it has a high temp threshold

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8aAke-EALw_wcB

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[ActionMaxon]

I can't speak to race parts, but I want to add that some brake pads specifically say not to apply grease to the backing plate. So make sure you aren't missing a pad specific installation note.

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Was gonna try this stuff since it has a high temp threshold

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8aAke-EALw_wcB

I found that the purple label stuff has a bad reputation with rubber parts. People may want to consider the silicon based alternative.
Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ROADRACER]

I have the same 4 piston Wilwood BBK. So far Iv'e just used the bp10 pads. I have never heard a squeal from them.
I have noticed a problem however. In the rain when the pads/rotors get wet I have almost zero brake friction for a second or two after I hit the brakes. It isn't a good feeling. Anyone else have this issue?

[RFB]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

Here's the info from Wilwood for reference sake. I try to to follow this as best I can.:

Begin with a series of light decelerations to gradually build some heat in the brakes. Use an on-and-off the pedal technique by applying the brakes for 3-5 seconds, and then allow them to fully release for a period roughly twice as long as the deceleration cycle. If you use a 5 count during the deceleration interval, use a 10 count during the release to allow the heat to sink into the pads & rotors.

After several cycles of light stops to begin warming the brakes, proceed with a series of medium to firm deceleration stops to continue raising the temperature level in the brakes.

Finish the bedding cycle with a series of 8-10 hard decelerations from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH while allowing a proportionate release and heat-sinking interval between each stop. The pads should now be providing positive and consistent response.

If any amount of brake fade is observed during the bed-in cycle, immediately begin the cool down cycle.

Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.

Works like a charm !
- Until a little daily driving removes the bedding and the squeeeeeeel starts again.

[churchx]

In that case wrong pad choice for wrong type of driving. There is reason, why many use two pad sets, one for track, one for DD, switching for trackdays, to have pros at type of driving pads are meant/designed to, and to not having to suffer cons/deficiencies of those in driving they are not meant to. Obviously track pads designed for higher temp range don't get anywhere near heat/temps during daily driving, thus no transfer of pad material aka bedding happens, rather opposite, scratching off what got there during bedding. It's not pad fault. It's owner's not right parts for a job choice fault. If it was intentional, well, one should accept cons that come with that (noise aside, also might be a bit worse braking on non-bedded rotors, and quicker wear). Street pads have low working temp range .. it limits one on track .. but in most cases with stock pads able to rebed layer even with light braking characteristic of DD. Though as BBKs often have more thermal capacity and have more efficient cooling, in rare cases even with less track oriented pads it may get harder to keep brakes bedded. It may sound counterintuitive, but eg. i'd close brake airducts for DD for example , and/or use even more street oriented pads for DD with BBK then if with OE brakes.

[RFB]

Originally Posted by churchx

In that case wrong pad choice for wrong type of driving. There is reason, why many use two pad sets, one for track, one for DD, switching for trackdays, to have pros at type of driving pads are meant/designed to, and to not having to suffer cons/deficiencies of those in driving they are not meant to. Obviously track pads designed for higher temp range don't get anywhere near heat/temps during daily driving, thus no transfer of pad material aka bedding happens, rather opposite, scratching off what got there during bedding. It's not pad fault. It's owner's not right parts for a job choice fault. If it was intentional, well, one should accept cons that come with that (noise aside, also might be a bit worse braking on non-bedded rotors, and quicker wear). Street pads have low working temp range .. it limits one on track .. but in most cases with stock pads able to rebed layer even with light braking characteristic of DD. Though as BBKs often have more thermal capacity and have more efficient cooling, in rare cases even with less track oriented pads it may get harder to keep brakes bedded. It may sound counterintuitive, but eg. i'd close brake airducts for DD for example , and/or use even more street oriented pads for DD with BBK then if with OE brakes.

Works like a charm ! Swappin pads is the answer .
Except that the street pads also have to be bedded.
Lots of track days - lots of bedding.
Except for the great gobs of pad powder going into the ether and excessive wear on the discs.

Sometimes it seems like I lose more pad material in bedding than duelling with Corvettes !

[ZZJ]

Are you running wilwood pads?
I've tried bp40 and they are extremely loud! Louder than train stopping behind my house. I would try different pad compound if you can't live with it. I kinda like bp40 because they are cheap and work just fine.

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by ZZJ

Are you running wilwood pads?

I've tried bp40 and they are extremely loud! Louder than train stopping behind my house. I would try different pad compound if you can't live with it. I kinda like bp40 because they are cheap and work just fine.

Yes currently bp20 pads. And it does sound like a train stopping. So I will be trying something else.

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[ZZJ]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

Yes currently bp20 pads. And it does sound like a train stopping. So I will be trying something else.

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I would try blank rotors. Im using dtc60 now but with the J hook rotors with the ap kit they are just as loud as wilwood pads but on stock size blank rotors they are almost quiet. Both have gone through same bed in procedure.

[fminicooper]

I am using BP40 with a very loud noisy result as expected, similar to others experience.
I tried the Permatex 24129 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts did not work a bit.

Went with BP10 pads, problem solved, I will change pads for track with proper bedding.

[jflogerzi]

Just bumping this thread. Using carbotech 1521s and brakes are slient on street. Found carbotech xp10s and xp8s front and and rear for these calipers. Going to try these on track and switch between the 2. Nice thing I can use a single set of rotors and just switch pads

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[bmacfrs]

I forgot to make an update to this thread...
I tried a set of G-Loc R10 front and rear. Great success with performance and significantly reduced noise. I have used them on many TT events and track days. Very consistent results. I rarely drive on the street anymore but that was MUCH better as well. I got a set of their AX pads for the occasional autocross so I can just swap the fronts. I have heard their compound is very similar to Carbotech.
So maybe this is the best option for helping noise with these calipers.

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