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Old 11-01-2019, 11:17 AM   #29
RotARy15
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I just remembered that I was interested in quick caliper spreaders. It appears the Lisle ones are junk and everything else I can find is stupid expensive. I don't get it. They are just reverse pliers....

Last edited by RotARy15; 11-01-2019 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:36 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by i8ur911 View Post
Any decent pad for the track is going to make noise.

One of the pros of the PP cars is the quickness of changing pads with the Brembo's. I can do all 4 calipers in less than an hour....and that's taking my time.

With that being said, it's in your best interest to swap pads. Not only is the noise annoying, but you don't want to wear out expensive pads by street driving them. You also don't want to ruin rotors with using "cold" track pads on the track.

That's my $0.02.

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There is loud, and then there is freight train coming to an emergency stop. @mistople's car was really loud. My XP10's were almost as bad, not quite. I am on CSG C1's now. They make a bit of noise at low speeds but are pretty quiet.
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Old 11-01-2019, 12:13 PM   #31
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There is loud, and then there is freight train coming to an emergency stop. @mistople's car was really loud. My XP10's were almost as bad, not quite. I am on CSG C1's now. They make a bit of noise at low speeds but are pretty quiet.
Yep. My car goes full freight train with the W5s when even remotely under regular track temps.
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:31 PM   #32
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I just remembered that I was interested in quick caliper spreaders. It appears the Lisle ones are junk and everything else I can find is stupid expensive. I don't get it. They are just reverse pliers....
I have used the Lisle ones for two years, and well over a dozen brake pad changes without a single issue...even on my 2500HD.
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:37 PM   #33
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I'll have to try these PFC11's at some point then.
Every other track pad I've run makes noise and I've never been a fan of the "street/track" pads. There's always a compromise with those as they can't be great at both disciplines.
There is *always* a compromise with *any* pad, period.
As for "street/track", for *me*, Carbotech XP8 and XP10 and PFC 11 have all worked great for me as street/track pads for entire track seasons. I would like more initial bite than any of these have but not willing to go noisier or dustier or less effective when cold.

Pads that didn't work for me as "street/track":
WinMax W5 too loud, Project Mu CR not enough cold bite, and going *way* back, Hawk HP+ way too much corrosive hard-to-clean black dust and way too much noise on the street.
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:45 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ZDan View Post
There is *always* a compromise with *any* pad, period.
As for "street/track", for *me*, Carbotech XP8 and XP10 and PFC 11 have all worked great for me as street/track pads for entire track seasons. I would like more initial bite than any of these have but not willing to go noisier or dustier or less effective when cold.

Pads that didn't work for me as "street/track":
WinMax W5 too loud, Project Mu CR not enough cold bite, and going *way* back, Hawk HP+ way too much corrosive hard-to-clean black dust and way too much noise on the street.
The C1's feel like they have better initial bite then XP10's. I don't think the friction coefficent is much higher but I think they are less compressible which also leads to more consistent pedal feel. They are also much quieter and don't seem to dust any worse. They are much more expensive though.
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Old 11-01-2019, 03:51 PM   #35
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There is *always* a compromise with *any* pad, period.
As for "street/track", for *me*, Carbotech XP8 and XP10 and PFC 11 have all worked great for me as street/track pads for entire track seasons. I would like more initial bite than any of these have but not willing to go noisier or dustier or less effective when cold.

Pads that didn't work for me as "street/track":
WinMax W5 too loud, Project Mu CR not enough cold bite, and going *way* back, Hawk HP+ way too much corrosive hard-to-clean black dust and way too much noise on the street.
How did you like the 9012s on my car? I find them twice as noisy as the HP+. My Pagid Yellows on the Porsche were very quiet.

Are you mostly driving the Porsche on the street?
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Old 11-01-2019, 04:38 PM   #36
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How did you like the 9012s on my car? I find them twice as noisy as the HP+. My Pagid Yellows on the Porsche were very quiet.
Are you mostly driving the Porsche on the street?
I don't remember them so they musta been fine! Do you run them on the street a lot or swap them out?

I'm back and forth between CAyman and BRZ on the street. Cayman is nicer (i.e., less wind and road noise and feels noticeably more solid), mucho bettero engie noises , but BRZ feels lighter which I like and also has better steering IMO. Cayman steering is too slow and also too heavy, and the steering wheel is too big. Also mine feels very nonlinear at ~45 degrees steering wheel angle particularly on right-handers. Honestly I'd like the Porsche twice as much if it had the BRZ's steering.

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Old 11-01-2019, 05:36 PM   #37
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I doubt it!

It is close but I have you by 5 months.
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Old 11-04-2019, 01:12 PM   #38
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I don't remember them so they musta been fine! Do you run them on the street a lot or swap them out?

I'm back and forth between CAyman and BRZ on the street. Cayman is nicer (i.e., less wind and road noise and feels noticeably more solid), mucho bettero engie noises , but BRZ feels lighter which I like and also has better steering IMO. Cayman steering is too slow and also too heavy, and the steering wheel is too big. Also mine feels very nonlinear at ~45 degrees steering wheel angle particularly on right-handers. Honestly I'd like the Porsche twice as much if it had the BRZ's steering.
Haha well thats good then!
I run them on the street, I have no issues. Even my Genesis has HP+.

My Porsche's steering although heavy was never non-linear, that sounds pretty awful. I did like it better at high speeds than the 86s, but that could have just been the car itself?

Could it be a steering geometry issue? I wonder if there is an upgrade to make it 981 steering?
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Old 11-15-2019, 10:26 AM   #39
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Just get the oil cooler. Do you really want to be running multiple sessions in a day at 270*F?

I never understood the 'oil cooler isn't needed' crowd. engine makes less power, oil gets thinner and breaks down faster, and you have to constantly monitor it. Even if it isn't absolutely needed, it seems silly to not get one given how critical oil is. By the time you realize you need it, it might be too late.
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Old 11-15-2019, 10:32 AM   #40
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*shrug* looks like this is your regular topic here, @ZDan lol. guess we'll have to be on different sides of the coin.
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Old 11-15-2019, 12:59 PM   #41
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Just get the oil cooler. Do you really want to be running multiple sessions in a day at 270*F?

I never understood the 'oil cooler isn't needed' crowd. engine makes less power,
Does it though? Does ECU pull timing with oil temp or something? If not I can't think of any reason it should lose power. If it does it's not enough to be obvious or noticeable. But if so I'll definitely be addressing that...

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oil gets thinner and breaks down faster, and you have to constantly monitor it.
Hotter = thinner, so run 30wt during track season. 30wt viscosity at 270F is similar to 20wt at ~235F

Casual track usage, the oil doesn't break down particularly quickly. This has been demonstrated with oil analysis. You don't have to "constantly monitor it". Of course you should check oil level regularly anyway.
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:57 PM   #42
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Just get the oil cooler. Do you really want to be running multiple sessions in a day at 270*F?

I never understood the 'oil cooler isn't needed' crowd. engine makes less power, oil gets thinner and breaks down faster, and you have to constantly monitor it. Even if it isn't absolutely needed, it seems silly to not get one given how critical oil is. By the time you realize you need it, it might be too late.
A few people, I am not one of them, don't believe the pressure loss from running a cooler is worth it and chose to offset it by running 5-30 instead. It really depends on your region and how long your sessions are.

If your oil is breaking down from temperature you need to run different oil. Through UOA's and ASTM testing good modern synthetics like Motul 300V and Redline take a TON of tempt to break down. 300V has been tested at 300F for 40 hours with little to no break down or degradation.
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