Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[CSG Mike]

Are you folks putting back in the factory ducting that needs to be trimmed around the FMIC piping? If you don't you will, literally, lose more than half of your cooling.

Hood vents will also further decrease temps.

The CSG BRZ with a C30 HBP never saw oil temps over 255F, in ~115F ambient temps with the factory air guides in place, and Trackspec hood vents. This was a record setting car at the time.

[peaches]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are you folks putting back in the factory ducting that needs to be trimmed around the FMIC piping? If you don't you will, literally, lose more than half of your cooling.

Hood vents will also further decrease temps.

The CSG BRZ with a C30 HBP never saw oil temps over 255F, in ~115F ambient temps with the factory air guides in place, and Trackspec hood vents. This was a record setting car at the time.

I did, I had to buy it new because I misplaced the stock one. I also purchased the foam for the radiator new, just those 2 things lowered the temps while on the highway (hard to set up a track day just to test that). I also have the trackspec louvers and the APR CF cover. The last time the car was out I let a friend drive it and forgot to turn the heater on, after 5 laps at Sebring the car threw a code for low voltage for the coolant sensor, the ECU registered 246 for the coolant. Turned the heater on at that point and there seems to be no damage. I cleared the code and it's been fine since (on the street, haven't attended another event).

I stopped looking at my oil temp gauge because it triggers the warning (set at 265) after 2 laps, it's flashing all the time and I know now it's a false reading. The JRDOC does keep oil temps within 30 degrees of the coolant just like JR states, so given that the car pulled the code when the coolant was 246, following that logic the oil was at 276 or so after lap 5 on a clean track (no traffic). This was with an ambient of 64. I wouldn't dare do that mid-summer at Sebring, even with the heater full blast.

I have been told the ECU will pull timing if it detects an unusually high oil temp, that has yet to happen.

I have a C38 HBP on E-85. How much cooling capacity will the dedicated track cooler buy me?

[peaches]

I can take pictures of my setup, maybe there's another piece of trim I'm missing that is reducing the airflow? Like I said, I trimmed the pieces that go around the piping and replaced the radiator foam with new ones. The undertray is also in place.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by peaches

I did, I had to buy it new because I misplaced the stock one. I also purchased the foam for the radiator new, just those 2 things lowered the temps while on the highway (hard to set up a track day just to test that). I also have the trackspec louvers and the APR CF cover. The last time the car was out I let a friend drive it and forgot to turn the heater on, after 5 laps at Sebring the car threw a code for low voltage for the coolant sensor, the ECU registered 246 for the coolant. Turned the heater on at that point and there seems to be no damage. I cleared the code and it's been fine since (on the street, haven't attended another event).

I stopped looking at my oil temp gauge because it triggers the warning (set at 265) after 2 laps, it's flashing all the time and I know now it's a false reading. The JRDOC does keep oil temps within 30 degrees of the coolant just like JR states, so given that the car pulled the code when the coolant was 246, following that logic the oil was at 276 or so after lap 5 on a clean track (no traffic). This was with an ambient of 64. I wouldn't dare do that mid-summer at Sebring, even with the heater full blast.

I have been told the ECU will pull timing if it detects an unusually high oil temp, that has yet to happen.

I have a C38 HBP on E-85. How much cooling capacity will the dedicated track cooler buy me?

Divorcing the oil cooler from the radiator will eliminate a heat exchange and also lower the load on your radiator. This is somewhat similar to AT folks getting a standalone AT cooler and deleting the factory AT/Coolant heat exchanger. This exchange elimination plus the additional cooler means the same heat load now has more surface area to dissipate heat, resulting in lower temps overall.

Factory OEM (NA) tunes will drop power once temps climb; aftermarket tunes may or may not. CSG tunes have built-in temp fail safes; if you start nearing unsafe temperatures, the tunes will dramatically drop output to signal that you need to cool down, as well as throw a CEL.

[peaches]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Divorcing the oil cooler from the radiator will eliminate a heat exchange and also lower the load on your radiator. This is somewhat similar to AT folks getting a standalone AT cooler and deleting the factory AT/Coolant heat exchanger. This exchange elimination plus the additional cooler means the same heat load now has more surface area to dissipate heat, resulting in lower temps overall.

Factory OEM (NA) tunes will drop power once temps climb; aftermarket tunes may or may not. CSG tunes have built-in temp fail safes; if you start nearing unsafe temperatures, the tunes will dramatically drop output to signal that you need to cool down, as well as throw a CEL.

If 255 is your reference, maybe I can drop 20 degrees by divorcing the oil cooler? Not sure what other options I have.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by peaches

If 255 is your reference, maybe I can drop 20 degrees by divorcing the oil cooler? Not sure what other options I have.

I would expect oil temps to remain approximately similar, but coolant temps to drop significantly.

[peaches]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I would expect oil temps to remain approximately similar, but coolant temps to drop significantly.

You mean by divorcing the oil cooler I would get lower coolant temps but similar oil temps? 275 is too high still, no?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by peaches

You mean by divorcing the oil cooler I would get lower coolant temps but similar oil temps? 275 is too high still, no?

If your temps are higher than the reference temps, something else is going on.

You should see no more than 260F on oil, and no more than 210 on coolant, done properly.

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If your temps are higher than the reference temps, something else is going on.

You should see no more than 260F on oil, and no more than 210 on coolant, done properly.

Is running at 260 Oil and 210 Coolant okay, as long as it doesn’t go above? I just had a day at Summit Point and was floating around these temps when I decided to cool down. I’m running JRSC C30, 93 Octane, JR Track Cooler, Verus Hood Vents, and Koyo Radiator. Also reinstalled the trim/cut it around Intercooler piping. Temps were in the high 50’s, and I was running the heat out the windows, but not on 100% max/full blast.

I have another event at VIR in a few weeks, and will make sure I do some more accurate data logging, but I can say for certain that on the internal gauges on an 18, it never created 230 for Coolant and 270 for Oil. If I don’t crest those clicks, am I in okay shape? These cool down laps are killing me, especially with all the work done to try and cool it down.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by J1Avs

Is running at 260 Oil and 210 Coolant okay, as long as it doesn’t go above? I just had a day at Summit Point and was floating around these temps when I decided to cool down. I’m running JRSC C30, 93 Octane, JR Track Cooler, Verus Hood Vents, and Koyo Radiator. Also reinstalled the trim/cut it around Intercooler piping. Temps were in the high 50’s, and I was running the heat out the windows, but not on 100% max/full blast.

I have another event at VIR in a few weeks, and will make sure I do some more accurate data logging, but I can say for certain that on the internal gauges on an 18, it never created 230 for Coolant and 270 for Oil. If I don’t crest those clicks, am I in okay shape? These cool down laps are killing me, especially with all the work done to try and cool it down.

Borderline, but you'll be okay.

Swap out the Verus vents for Trackspec. You'll notice a dramatic difference in cooling.

[steved]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are you folks putting back in the factory ducting that needs to be trimmed around the FMIC piping? If you don't you will, literally, lose more than half of your cooling.

Hood vents will also further decrease temps.

The CSG BRZ with a C30 HBP never saw oil temps over 255F, in ~115F ambient temps with the factory air guides in place, and Trackspec hood vents. This was a record setting car at the time.

@CSG Mike

Can you break this down a bit more? Is the intention to;
A. redirect the air that would make it around the left and right side of the intercooler to the radiator by trimming the factory air guides around the piping and then keeping the upright plastic pieces in place that snug up against the rear side of the intercooler piping?
B. Block off the sides entirely so air can only flow through the intercooler -> oil coolers -> radiator?

Do you have pictures of this setup?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by steved

@CSG Mike

Can you break this down a bit more? Is the intention to;
A. redirect the air that would make it around the left and right side of the intercooler to the radiator by trimming the factory air guides around the piping and then keeping the upright plastic pieces in place that snug up against the rear side of the intercooler piping?
B. Block off the sides entirely so air can only flow through the intercooler -> oil coolers -> radiator?

Do you have pictures of this setup?

The purpose is to keep all air entering the front opening going through the cooling stack. Air going around the stack is air not drawing heat away from your coolers.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Divorcing the oil cooler from the radiator will eliminate a heat exchange and also lower the load on your radiator. This is somewhat similar to AT folks getting a standalone AT cooler and deleting the factory AT/Coolant heat exchanger. This exchange elimination plus the additional cooler means the same heat load now has more surface area to dissipate heat, resulting in lower temps overall.

Factory OEM (NA) tunes will drop power once temps climb; aftermarket tunes may or may not. CSG tunes have built-in temp fail safes; if you start nearing unsafe temperatures, the tunes will dramatically drop output to signal that you need to cool down, as well as throw a CEL.

Factoy oem tunes do not drop power against neither coolant or engile oil temperature
Just against air intake temperature

That s why you, me and whoever tune this car need to build custom maps to have timings drop against oil temperature and to blink or flash the CEL

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Borderline, but you'll be okay.

Swap out the Verus vents for Trackspec. You'll notice a dramatic difference in cooling.

Getting the feeling once you cut the Verus vents in, I’ll need a new hood for the Trackspec. Those lines don’t look like they line up all that much, but that’s a guess.

For reference, I’m also running Motul 300V 5W30, and Subaru OEM Coolant. I plan on going to Distilled Water and Water Wetter once the temperatures move towards more consistent warm weather. Should I be running a different oil??

Thanks as always!