Dss axles street reliability

[dholloway543]

My CV axles are blown up so bad that I can feel them clicking in the frame now. Needless to say I need new axles. I've heard that the chromeolly CV axles don't last as long and I've also heard drive shaft shop axles don't stay in like their too short or something like that.


What are your experiences with dss axles and how far have you gone on them (miles/kilometers). How often do you beat on them?

[DarkPira7e]

If your stock axles can't take the power, I'd bet they'll last a lot less time than upgraded axles even if upgraded axles had a shorter life expectancy. I haven't heard anything that would suggest upgraded axles would have shorter life expectancy. In for answers as well if anyone has heard of this

[dholloway543]

Well I'm just skeptical sometimes *cough cough ACT clutch* and the very few reviews that I've seen online including high performance academy's review have me scared. I bed it's just the people that had problems posted reviews and it's a good product. Just skeptical especially since it's $1100

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by dholloway543

Well I'm just skeptical sometimes *cough cough ACT clutch* and the very few reviews that I've seen online including high performance academy's review have me scared. I bed it's just the people that had problems posted reviews and it's a good product. Just skeptical especially since it's $1100

So why did your axles go out? Is it because of long term wear or too much power? If it's just long term then maybe OE axles would better suit you. Many performance parts don't last as long as OEs in normal usage but are much better in performance situations

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[dholloway543]

I looked up the price difference and I think I'm going to try the dss axles. I agree that they don't last as long but the stock part is $800 for the price increase it's worth a shot.

[Mr.ac]

Dam, that's a lot of cheddar for axles.

If it was me I'll just go to my local tranny/axle shop and have them rebuild. Sure is a hell of a lot cheaper than $800. But that's just me being cheap.

[x808drifter]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

So why did your axles go out? Is it because of long term wear or too much power? If it's just long term then maybe OE axles would better suit you. Many performance parts don't last as long as OEs in normal usage but are much better in performance situations

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Door number 3.

Car dropped too low.
If that is the case. Going upgraded isn't gonna help. Upgraded axles aren't designed or extreme angles any more than the oem ones.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by x808drifter

Door number 3.



Car dropped too low.

If that is the case. Going upgraded isn't gonna help. Upgraded axles aren't designed or extreme angles any more than the oem ones.

Not necessarily. Just not DSS axles. Though I'm not sure there is any one babysitting axles for extreme dropped applications. I know you can get stuff like that for trucks with crazy lifts so it makes sense that drop axles would exist

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[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by x808drifter

Door number 3.

Car dropped too low.
If that is the case. Going upgraded isn't gonna help. Upgraded axles aren't designed or extreme angles any more than the oem ones.

He's not a lowboi, he's a powerboi. But yes, this is worth mentioning

[dholloway543]

Yeah my car is only dropped an inch and it's already such a pain I don't ever see myself going lower. In truth they have died a slow death so I wouldn't feel like going oem again is the worst idea, I'm pretty sure I only broke it from doing a burnout at the drag strip, figure. Just for the price difference it's worth a shot for long term reliability. Tbh I'm more concerned with fitment anyway. I've heard that they can pop out from being too short but who knows if that's the clip holding it in the differential failing or if it was a bad QA which resulted in a bad review. Either way it's worth a shot.

[Misfit714]

you can do what I am going to do which other people on the forum told me to do which is get subframe and diff risers if it is because you are low. I know pbm makes them!

[rice_classic]

Inside joint? Both failing equally or just driver side?

[dholloway543]

I have yet to see, California is currently on fire so it will be a minute before I'm going to fix it but I will post how it failed and my experience with dss if you want

[TRS]

Hi all,

Im strugelling with some issues in my DSS 600hp direct replacement axles. Car is LS3 swapped with factory Diff but changed diff ratio and used as daily, street racer and drifter.

I expierienced a clicking noise (single click) when the Torque in the axle changed between load/acceleration and coasting. It is NOT the typicall noise of a brocken CV and it occures only if torque direction is changed.

As well I noticed a vibration getting worse over time occuring between 95 and 105mph. (the Vibration is also present before and after, but gets very noticabel at exactly those speeds and is barely noticabel on way higher or lower speeds) I measured the frequency and it turned out it correlates with wheel/axle RPM. (wheels and tires are fine and ballanced) It also is not related to the selected gear but disappears if no torque is applied to the axle (no acceleration, no coasting = transmission in neutral or clutch depressed).

Based on this I started to investigate differential and axles. I pulled the axles and the diff and found the following:



Splines of inner axle / CV flange obviously sitting at different depth left to right axle.




Splines of the inner axle flange / CV flange show noticabel wear.



Splines of torsen unit fortunately dont show any noticabel wear.



Despite heavy usage of the car, the diff doesnt show unusual amounts of wear / depris in oil.

Other symtoms I found are that the locking ring (or better the grouve for this ring in the spline portion of the flange) is Not located in the correct position. This leads to the effect that the flange can travel in and out in axial direction for about 3-4mm. Obviously this is the reason for the different depth the both flanges are sitting inside the differential. (Based on the wear marks) On has decided to sit more towards the diff, one further away.

Additional both flanges have also arround 1mm radial play. In my book this is the reason for the vibrations I notic at certain speeds die to the axles not running ballanced anymore.

The spline geometry of the factory differential / torsen unit seems to be different to the geometry of the DSS axle inner flange. The angle between the spline tooth in side of the diff seems to be higher then in side of the DSS axle flanges. This also correlates with form and position of the found wear marks.

Also the diameter of the cylindrical part of the flange behind the spline portion seems to be smaler then the cylindrical diameter inside the differential. In my understanding those should match to guarantee the axles are running in the Axis of rotation as the differential unit.

Now my questions:

-Did anyone expierience similar issues with those DSS 600hp axles?
-Is it known If DSS somewhen update the design?
-Does anyone know the spilne count and diameter of the INNER ring of the INNER 108mm Porsche CV joints used by DSS?
-Does anyone know the spline count, diameter and tooth angle of the splines of the inner axle flange / factory torsen unit?

Thanks in advance!

TRS