oil pan removal - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

SirSpectre · 04-21-2016, 03:19 PM

How did you guys get your oil pan off when tapping an oil drain? Did you say F*** it and bend it all up, or was there some trick to get it to come off easier?

I thought about heat, but ya know...oil.

What is typically used for the hole? Side or front? I am leaning toward front, but it would be at a slight downward angle.

Toyarzee · 04-21-2016, 03:53 PM

Are you talking about making an oil return line from a turbo? If so, I hope you're draining the oil before attempting to remove the oil pan lol (per your heat comment). Also, any oil return line should not have any resistance, ie having to surpass gravity. Finally, highly recommend AN fittings for everything in a large enough diameter.

SirSpectre · 04-21-2016, 03:58 PM

Oh its all drained and i have AN fittings for it. I just cant get it to come off. I know there is some kind of glue or sealant for a gasket. I'm trying not to bend it, i would like to keep using it. Now I am thinking the tap it on the side of the pan to avoid that slight angle?

Toyarzee · 04-21-2016, 04:04 PM

Got it. So a bit of heat certainly wouldn't hurt, but if you can wedge a thin flat head or similar tool that can help you get some leverage, you should be able to create some wiggle room to slowly pry it off. If you do misshape a small section of the lip slightly, no worries, you can sorta bend it back and you'll be using new sealant to keep that leak free anyway. I haven't seen underneath this platform with turbo applications, but usually the side of the pan as high up and angled straight perpendicular or angled downwards into the pan is best. However, I'm sure those more experienced with this platform will chime in

Cockatoo · 04-21-2016, 04:27 PM

I didn't have the patience, and took the peen of my hammer and went to town. I was replacing it it with a pan that already had a tap on it though...

SirSpectre · 04-21-2016, 08:25 PM

Well I got it off. Heat really helps. Still had to bend a corner a little to get a putty knife under there. Then with heat it came off easy enough. Pounced the pan back into shape pretty nicely too.

GsxrMe · 04-22-2016, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SirSpectre

Well I got it off. Heat really helps. Still had to bend a corner a little to get a putty knife under there. Then with heat it came off easy enough. Pounced the pan back into shape pretty nicely too.

Hey there's alot of billet oil pans that have a return, oil baffle and can hold more oil. While you're doing all this you should really get a new pan. Nothings like turning to fast and sharving your engine of oil.

SirSpectre · 04-22-2016, 05:58 PM

very tempted to do that now. Bigger oil pan wont fit with this manifold sadly. Clearances are pretty tight. But I may have to scrap this entire project if thats the case. The supplied oil return bung to put on the oil pan is weldless. Thats not really the issue though, its the fact that its restricted down to a 5/16" hole from the 10 AN hose. Pretty sure this'll cause a lot of back pressure and blow the seals. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Fizz · 04-30-2016, 10:37 PM

In it possible to remove oil pan with the factory header still in place? I'm planning to swap to the new the oil pan (Full Blown cast pan) first whilst waiting for the turbo kit to arrive.

SpoochFRS · 10-21-2016, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

I didn't have the patience, and took the peen of my hammer and went to town. I was replacing it it with a pan that already had a tap on it though...

LMFAO, we did this to my friends oil pan when we installed his SBD hahaha too funny.

Hags86 · 07-06-2017, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizz

In it possible to remove oil pan with the factory header still in place? I'm planning to swap to the new the oil pan (Full Blown cast pan) first whilst waiting for the turbo kit to arrive.

How did you go with this? Is this possible or does the header need to come off?

504 · 07-06-2017, 09:03 PM

I am yet to do this (next week hopefully) but for a situation like this, I reckon simple fishing line would be the perfect tool. Wear gloves and floss the sealent to break the seal. The friction will slice the goo loose with no possibility of damaging or bending anything

I guess I'll find out how effective it is next week

FirestormFRS · 07-06-2017, 10:21 PM

The key is not to gouge the sealing surface on the block. I like the fishing line idea if you have the patience. Super thin putty knife works well for me.

ShadowReaper · 10-30-2017, 12:05 PM

wonder if I really want to buy the pre welded pan because I'm having it installed

10-30-2017, 12:05 PM	#14
ShadowReaper Indulgent Tormenter Join Date: Dec 2015 Drives: 15' LTD Subaru BRZ DGM Location: FL Posts: 486 Thanks: 316 Thanked 128 Times in 87 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	wonder if I really want to buy the pre welded pan because I'm having it installed __________________ Instagram: 86_Maul

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04-21-2016, 03:53 PM	#2
Toyarzee Shibby! Join Date: Feb 2014 Drives: '14 White FR-S, '01 turbo mini taco Location: Costa Mesa, CA Posts: 647 Thanks: 838 Thanked 583 Times in 269 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Are you talking about making an oil return line from a turbo? If so, I hope you're draining the oil before attempting to remove the oil pan lol (per your heat comment). Also, any oil return line should not have any resistance, ie having to surpass gravity. Finally, highly recommend AN fittings for everything in a large enough diameter.

04-21-2016, 04:04 PM	#4
Toyarzee Shibby! Join Date: Feb 2014 Drives: '14 White FR-S, '01 turbo mini taco Location: Costa Mesa, CA Posts: 647 Thanks: 838 Thanked 583 Times in 269 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Got it. So a bit of heat certainly wouldn't hurt, but if you can wedge a thin flat head or similar tool that can help you get some leverage, you should be able to create some wiggle room to slowly pry it off. If you do misshape a small section of the lip slightly, no worries, you can sorta bend it back and you'll be using new sealant to keep that leak free anyway. I haven't seen underneath this platform with turbo applications, but usually the side of the pan as high up and angled straight perpendicular or angled downwards into the pan is best. However, I'm sure those more experienced with this platform will chime in

04-21-2016, 04:27 PM	#5
Cockatoo TALLY FT86 Join Date: Mar 2014 Drives: 2014 FR-S Monogram -- SBD Turbo -- Location: Tallahassee, FL Posts: 624 Thanks: 185 Thanked 444 Times in 241 Posts Mentioned: 12 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I didn't have the patience, and took the peen of my hammer and went to town. I was replacing it it with a pan that already had a tap on it though...

04-30-2016, 10:37 PM	#9
Fizz Senior Addict Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: 86 GT Location: Perth, Australia Posts: 1,217 Thanks: 249 Thanked 336 Times in 215 Posts Mentioned: 12 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	In it possible to remove oil pan with the factory header still in place? I'm planning to swap to the new the oil pan (Full Blown cast pan) first whilst waiting for the turbo kit to arrive.

07-06-2017, 09:03 PM	#12
504 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Drives: 2014 86 GTS Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 168 Thanks: 131 Thanked 85 Times in 57 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I am yet to do this (next week hopefully) but for a situation like this, I reckon simple fishing line would be the perfect tool. Wear gloves and floss the sealent to break the seal. The friction will slice the goo loose with no possibility of damaging or bending anything I guess I'll find out how effective it is next week

07-06-2017, 10:21 PM	#13
FirestormFRS Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2013 FR-S Location: Anytown Posts: 920 Thanks: 73 Thanked 643 Times in 302 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	The key is not to gouge the sealing surface on the block. I like the fishing line idea if you have the patience. Super thin putty knife works well for me.

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