Potential FR-S / BRZ Buyer - Feedback Appreciated

[sdwagonjp]

I would go new. You seem like a guy who won't be modding (obviously could be wrong) but in the case you aren't why not spend the extra cash for a warranty that most people void putting after market parts on.

[kh060]

It really depends on what you want out of the car. I'm a 100 miles a day driver here too! I bought my 10 series last October 2013 with 6 miles on it and today I am gonna hit 24000 so in about a year and a month or so I drove my new car 24k miles. So far nothing mechanical has "failed".

It is my daily driver, so I drive to work and home 5 days a week. My commute is central valley California so it is pretty much flat so I set my cruise control to 65 mph and so far I avg about 36-39 mpg! I live 20 sec from highway on ramp and work 30 sec off the highway ramp so that is why I get the mileage I get. My purpose is not to drag race my car.

I am about 250 pounds and I am not uncomfortable at all on the drives, so it is actually comfy for me. Also I do hear rattles here and there now all the time. If you like quiet peaceful drives then the car might not be for you because everything is thin on the car to save weight so therefore there are a lot of noises you are gonna hear. I test drove a Lexus RC 350 F Sport just 2 hours ago and a totally different feel and experience from my FR-S but then again it also costs almost double.

[02.ACCORD.DUDE]

Originally Posted by sdwagonjp

I would go new. You seem like a guy who won't be modding (obviously could be wrong) but in the case you aren't why not spend the extra cash for a warranty that most people void putting after market parts on.

No that's pretty spot on, I won't be doing any modding - at least nothing major - maybe a few cosmetic things once the car is broken in way down the road, just for the sake of tinkering but that's it...

[navanodd]

I came from driving a 2001 4cyl Accord (parent's old car they bought new) and got the BRZ. Still on the original Accord transmission?


For comparison's sake, I will say that the BRZ is quieter overall, but not by a lot. I have the sound tube plugged because it seemed more like noise than an engine note to me and that quieted it a lot.


This is absolutely the season to buy one of these cars. People don't like car shopping this time of year anyhow, and practically no one wants to buy a RWD sports car when there is snow on the ground.


For snow tires, I recommend getting some 16". Whether you get steelies or another set of alloys, you get a taller sidewall and are less likely to damage a rim in the winter. The price difference between 16" and 17" winter tires paid for my rims. I use Michelin X Ice Xi3's and think they're great. I don't know how much winter driving you do or where exactly you are so they may or may not be the most suitable for you.


Not sure how familiar you are, but the sound tube basically just pipes in some intake noise to the cabin through a set of hoses and a diaphragm. Comes into the cabin in the passenger footwell and can be blocked with the 12V power plug in the glove box. Would be easy to do to tell the difference on a test drive.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by kh060

It really depends on what you want out of the car. I'm a 100 miles a day driver here too! I bought my 10 series last October 2013 with 6 miles on it and today I am gonna hit 24000 so in about a year and a month or so I drove my new car 24k miles. So far nothing mechanical has "failed".

It is my daily driver, so I drive to work and home 5 days a week. My commute is central valley California so it is pretty much flat so I set my cruise control to 65 mph and so far I avg about 36-39 mpg! I live 20 sec from highway on ramp and work 30 sec off the highway ramp so that is why I get the mileage I get. My purpose is not to drag race my car.

I am about 250 pounds and I am not uncomfortable at all on the drives, so it is actually comfy for me. Also I do hear rattles here and there now all the time. If you like quiet peaceful drives then the car might not be for you because everything is thin on the car to save weight so therefore there are a lot of noises you are gonna hear. I test drove a Lexus RC 350 F Sport just 2 hours ago and a totally different feel and experience from my FR-S but then again it also costs almost double.

Got mine in August and have 13000 so will be even higher after a year. I have not had any issues either and have drove through all sorts of weather. Can tell you, that with the right snows on, these cars can send a plume of snow about 40 feet in the air on each side when driving through about 18 inches on the road!

[02.ACCORD.DUDE]

I feel the need to compulsively updated this... I'm going for a test drive a 2015 FRS at another Scion dealer, and am going to check out 1-2 more used ones on the way back...

After that there's one BRZ Limited I'll probably look at on Monday before I make my decision...

When it comes to paint chips, scratches, etc. how do you guys typically go about fixing them and how often (cost)?



I'm really starting to like the blue even though I was initially turned off from it...

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by 02.ACCORD.DUDE

When it comes to paint chips, scratches, etc. how do you guys typically go about fixing them and how often (cost)?

First chip I was pissed, ran out got a paint stick and spent an hour cleaning, sanding, filling and blending.
Second chip spent 20 minutes cleaning and filling.
Third chip spent 10 minutes filling.
By the twentieth chip I spent 30 seconds slapping some paint in it and calling it a day!

[02.ACCORD.DUDE]

Has anyone had any luck with getting a dealer to knock off the destination fees?

If the car is already on the lot, why am I getting charged a destination fee (it's not explicitly stated, but you can tell that's where the additional $770 is coming from)? Is this standard dealer practice?

I'm weighing the cost benefits of a new FRS (base) - on dealer lot - vs. BRZ limited (would have to order)... I think I can get BRZ price down a little which would put it at a 1-grand difference between the two, assuming the destination charges on the FRS stick...

[sdwagonjp]

Originally Posted by 02.ACCORD.DUDE

Has anyone had any luck with getting a dealer to knock off the destination fees?

If the car is already on the lot, why am I getting charged a destination fee (it's not explicitly stated, but you can tell that's where the additional $770 is coming from)? Is this standard dealer practice?

I'm weighing the cost benefits of a new FRS (base) - on dealer lot - vs. BRZ limited (would have to order)... I think I can get BRZ price down a little which would put it at a 1-grand difference between the two, assuming the destination charges on the FRS stick...

Destination fee is where it came from. That car didn't just magically appear at the dealer. Did cost money to get it there.

[02.ACCORD.DUDE]

Originally Posted by sdwagonjp

Destination fee is where it came from. That car didn't just magically appear at the dealer. Did cost money to get it there.

True, but my thinking was - if I bought a brand new car (not on lot) - the destination fee would be incurred by dealership solely for the purpose of delivering a car I would drive away with.

With this car, the dealership ordered, had other individuals test drive and presumably used to help sell other vehicles. So in this case the dealership derived some benefits from the delivery of the car, and the car was not solely delivered for my sake.

Wouldn't it make since for them to incur some of these costs? (If I'm reaching, feel free to let me know)

[sdwagonjp]

Originally Posted by 02.ACCORD.DUDE

True, but my thinking was - if I bought a brand new car (not on lot) - the destination fee would be incurred by dealership solely for the purpose of delivering a car I would drive away with.

With this car, the dealership ordered, had other individuals test drive and presumably used to help sell other vehicles. So in this case the dealership derived some benefits from the delivery of the car, and the car was not solely delivered for my sake.

Wouldn't it make since for them to incur some of these costs? (If I'm reaching, feel free to let me know)

I think I see what your saying but every car on the lot you can test drive. Most dealers will knock it off. Best thing to do is get quotes from near dealers and show each dealer what your offers are. They will typically lower the price.

[02.ACCORD.DUDE]

Originally Posted by sdwagonjp

I think I see what your saying but every car on the lot you can test drive. Most dealers will knock it off. Best thing to do is get quotes from near dealers and show each dealer what your offers are. They will typically lower the price.

So this is pretty standard then? I understand why the dr?dealer would do it, just want to make sure I'm doing all I can to get best price (pure price be damned lol)...

Did get these guys to consider throwing in winter tires, Shi at least there's that angle I can work...

[fika84]

Originally Posted by 02.ACCORD.DUDE

So this is pretty standard then? I understand why the dr?dealer would do it, just want to make sure I'm doing all I can to get best price (pure price be damned lol)...

Did get these guys to consider throwing in winter tires, Shi at least there's that angle I can work...

Just wanted to touch on your tire options (and TPMS) once more. If you're planning on just swapping tires onto the same wheels, then you're good to go and don't need to read any further . If you plan on getting another set of wheels you will either need to:

A) swap the TPMS from your stock wheels which is a PITA since you have to dismount tires to get to them
B) not get TPMS sensors and deal with the annoying light and potentially a fix it ticket if the cop is a ****
C) buy 4 tpms sensors (I recommend Ebay, I got 4 used ones for $40 and they all work) and buy a ATEQ QuickSet TPMS Reset Tool [ame="http://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4"]Amazon.com: ATEQ QuickSet TPMS Reset Tool: Automotive[/ame] for $150 and easily swap between wheels/tires whenever you want
D) buy 4 tpms sensors and have a place like Discount Tire (new TPMS is ~$40/ea sensor) swap your tires and pay them a small fee everytime.

If you plan on getting another set of wheels, then maybe try and get the dealer to through in 4 new TPMS sensors too!!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by 02.ACCORD.DUDE

True, but my thinking was - if I bought a brand new car (not on lot) - the destination fee would be incurred by dealership solely for the purpose of delivering a car I would drive away with.

With this car, the dealership ordered, had other individuals test drive and presumably used to help sell other vehicles. So in this case the dealership derived some benefits from the delivery of the car, and the car was not solely delivered for my sake.

Wouldn't it make since for them to incur some of these costs? (If I'm reaching, feel free to let me know)

You pay a "destination" fee on every single thing you buy as they all need to be shipped. It is just normally hidden in the price. It is certainly negotiable but the mark up on these cars is not huge and dealer's have to earn money too live on just like everybody else.

The worst example of an add on fee is Hydro in Ontario! We pay for the power we use but then they tack a "delivery" fee on top of the bill. Not like we could pick it up ourselves!!!!!