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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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02-03-2013, 06:42 PM | #29 |
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Fairly sure you can manage this with the accelerator. Remember its not a switch, you can actually back off a bit if you know flooring it will cause it to break out.
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02-03-2013, 08:23 PM | #30 | |||
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Quote:
*edit* Quote:
Also... I can say with decent certainty, you won't need 1 bar for 300whp. Quote:
As far as the power comment, you'll need a clutch and while the stock one is light effort, I can see something in the spec stage 2 or 2+ variety being just fine, and they're not to hard to deal with on the daily. Suspension is going to be adjustable in most cases (other than coilovers the only shocks out right now are Koni yellows - adjustable) and you can put it a little softer, brakes (pads) and tires most track people swap at the track anyway. At 300whp you should be able to get away with a stock clutch for a while and if you don't plan on going up in power, you won't need anything too wild. 400whp didn't require much in a C5 to track btw, pads and tires did it. Stock clutch, stock suspension (lowered on the OEM bolts actually), stock everything else and it did just fine Keep in mind, not all my previous cars are japanese In any case... This is getting a little off topic.
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02-04-2013, 12:43 AM | #31 |
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Recently drove a boosted FR-S and heavy duty clutch...or I tried to anyway. Stalled probably 3 times in 20 feet. There's no way I could drive a car with a clutch like that day to day. Fast is great, but hating your drive to/from work or anywhere else because of it? No thanks.
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02-04-2013, 12:51 AM | #32 | |
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Quote:
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02-04-2013, 12:54 AM | #33 |
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02-04-2013, 12:59 AM | #34 |
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Respect your opinion and agree. Just keep in mind that there are clutches for every application and a 6 pluck is pretty high on the chain. There are full face disks that can do the job and be way more "drivable".
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02-04-2013, 01:12 AM | #35 |
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FX400 by Clutch Masters for example. Visconti swears by them and they feel almost identical to OEM. It also holds 170% more tq than stock.
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02-04-2013, 02:14 AM | #36 | |
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Quote:
Clutch is like suspension tho, everyone is going to have their own idea of "drivability". *edit* - I'll add the following... Since this car even with a max'd out 18G (which is all I'm referring to) shouldn't make much more than 350wtq, I think most "stage 1" clutches will be fine. Organic material, engagement like stock, with some more clamping ability - Maybe a "stage 1.5-2" if you plan on drag racing/drifting, however for auto-x and HPDE, you don't really need to launch the car or shift super hard - launching is going to be what kills the clutch in the most short order. So I don't see the need for a more aggressive clutch, unless you're upgrading the turbo or plan on drag racing a good bit.
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02-04-2013, 03:24 AM | #37 |
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6 puck/paddle discs are fine when you use them with an appropriate cover. A nice compromise is often using such a disc with the OEM cover. Same pedal feel (resistance) as OEM, much more torque capability, but yes you do get some shuddering on engagement.
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02-04-2013, 12:38 PM | #38 |
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I've driven aftermarket clutches in high hp cars (particularly f-bodies) that you absolutely could not slip from a dead stop. I basically had to drop release the clutch everywhere. Scary at first, but after a few weeks.. It feels like OEM. (; lol
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