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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 02-03-2013, 06:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by seven View Post
I love when people say "powah" !

Also, yes I'd say for auto-x, probably keep it very low boost or go all motor as the table top of torque will make the car a little tail happy. HPDE/open track, drift, and street will just be more lively and likely more managable.
Fairly sure you can manage this with the accelerator. Remember its not a switch, you can actually back off a bit if you know flooring it will cause it to break out.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:23 PM   #30
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Fairly sure you can manage this with the accelerator. Remember its not a switch, you can actually back off a bit if you know flooring it will cause it to break out.
I'm thinking of the fact that the majority of twin owners are young and don't have a lot of track experience. Do I think I can handle it? Sure. Most people who are going to buy this kit? I dunno.
*edit*
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IMO, this kit running 1 bar is far more car than 90% of people could properly drive anyway. Probably a over-generalisation, but I bet I'm not far off.
You answered it here yourself.

Also... I can say with decent certainty, you won't need 1 bar for 300whp.

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Regarding OP's comments. Great honest feedback. All I would comment on, is that test driving a car around the block and living with it day to day are two different things. Agree that if you have driven 400whp cars, this kit obviously wouldn't blow your socks off. But, if you've had 400whp cars, the level of supporting modifications required to utilize that much power on the track (clutch, suspension) then makes the car less fun on the street.
The car feels so OEM (as far as power) that it doesn't matter whether it was a drive around the block (which it was a little longer than that) or all day... The power is the only thing different and it's completely welcome in this car... in fact in my opinion it'd be EASIER to live with as you don't need to downshift as much to get thru traffic. The suspension is stock besides RCE springs (and some bushings IIRC) and the rest of the car, besides the turbo kit and cat-back, is largely stock.

As far as the power comment, you'll need a clutch and while the stock one is light effort, I can see something in the spec stage 2 or 2+ variety being just fine, and they're not to hard to deal with on the daily. Suspension is going to be adjustable in most cases (other than coilovers the only shocks out right now are Koni yellows - adjustable) and you can put it a little softer, brakes (pads) and tires most track people swap at the track anyway. At 300whp you should be able to get away with a stock clutch for a while and if you don't plan on going up in power, you won't need anything too wild.

400whp didn't require much in a C5 to track btw, pads and tires did it. Stock clutch, stock suspension (lowered on the OEM bolts actually), stock everything else and it did just fine Keep in mind, not all my previous cars are japanese


In any case... This is getting a little off topic.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:43 AM   #31
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But, if you've had 400whp cars, the level of supporting modifications required to utilize that much power on the track (clutch, suspension) then makes the car less fun on the street.
Recently drove a boosted FR-S and heavy duty clutch...or I tried to anyway. Stalled probably 3 times in 20 feet. There's no way I could drive a car with a clutch like that day to day. Fast is great, but hating your drive to/from work or anywhere else because of it? No thanks.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:51 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Recently drove a boosted FR-S and heavy duty clutch...or I tried to anyway. Stalled probably 3 times in 20 feet. There's no way I could drive a car with a clutch like that day to day. Fast is great, but hating your drive to/from work or anywhere else because of it? No thanks.
Do you know what brand/model was it?
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:54 AM   #33
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Do you know what brand/model was it?
ACT 6 puck w/ lightened flywheel. I respect that a car needs a clutch to hold torque, but it wasn't really my game. Perhaps if my car wasn't my DD. In any case, fun car just not MY taste.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:59 AM   #34
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ACT 6 puck w/ lightened flywheel. I respect that a car needs a clutch to hold torque, but it wasn't really my game. Perhaps if my car wasn't my DD. In any case, fun car just not MY taste.
Respect your opinion and agree. Just keep in mind that there are clutches for every application and a 6 pluck is pretty high on the chain. There are full face disks that can do the job and be way more "drivable".
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:12 AM   #35
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Respect your opinion and agree. Just keep in mind that there are clutches for every application and a 6 pluck is pretty high on the chain. There are full face disks that can do the job and be way more "drivable".
FX400 by Clutch Masters for example. Visconti swears by them and they feel almost identical to OEM. It also holds 170% more tq than stock.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:14 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
ACT 6 puck w/ lightened flywheel. I respect that a car needs a clutch to hold torque, but it wasn't really my game. Perhaps if my car wasn't my DD. In any case, fun car just not MY taste.
6 puck is serious business (for a street car).
Clutch is like suspension tho, everyone is going to have their own idea of "drivability".

*edit* - I'll add the following...

Since this car even with a max'd out 18G (which is all I'm referring to) shouldn't make much more than 350wtq, I think most "stage 1" clutches will be fine. Organic material, engagement like stock, with some more clamping ability - Maybe a "stage 1.5-2" if you plan on drag racing/drifting, however for auto-x and HPDE, you don't really need to launch the car or shift super hard - launching is going to be what kills the clutch in the most short order. So I don't see the need for a more aggressive clutch, unless you're upgrading the turbo or plan on drag racing a good bit.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:24 AM   #37
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6 puck/paddle discs are fine when you use them with an appropriate cover. A nice compromise is often using such a disc with the OEM cover. Same pedal feel (resistance) as OEM, much more torque capability, but yes you do get some shuddering on engagement.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:38 PM   #38
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I've driven aftermarket clutches in high hp cars (particularly f-bodies) that you absolutely could not slip from a dead stop. I basically had to drop release the clutch everywhere. Scary at first, but after a few weeks.. It feels like OEM. (; lol
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