Camber options.

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

I suspect you're just not adjusted properly. He's right about the eccentric bolt, you have to turn the bolt to change the camber position, not pull on the hub.

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That could very well be it. I'll be double checking my work. I do remember rotating the eccentric bolt thru it's whole rotation multiple times and measuring the distance between hub and a fixed point to verify max camber. Thank you.

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[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by yzf219

That could very well be it. I'll be double checking my work. I do remember rotating the eccentric bolt thru it's whole rotation multiple times and measuring the distance between hub and a fixed point to verify max camber. Thank you.

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It should be pretty obvious just watching it, about where max is

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[HaXx]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Hey guys wondering how I should get more front camber. I am lowered 1.2 inches on springs. Have 14mm cam bolts in the bottom hole and crash bolts in the top hole. Currently maxed out a -1.8 camber. Would like to achieve -2.5.

So the options I have come up with are,

Option 1, Run a 16mm cam bolt in the strut top hole in addition to the 14mm cam bolt I already have in the bottom hole.

Option 2, slot the top hole in the strut and continue to use the 14mm crash bolt in the top hole along with the 14mm camber bolt in the bottom hole.

Option 3, slot the 3 holes where the strut mounts to the body. However I'm of the understanding that camber at the hub is more desirable than camber achieved at the top of the strut.


Forgot to mention that I do not want to run camber plates as they are far too expensive.

Thanks for the help.

i dont blame you, i just looked at ftspeed and camber plates are between 300-400 USD. you might look into onimade camber plates. 200+25 shipping USD. Im not sure if you can use camber plates on stock struts. i know you might not ilke them bc theyre a stance product, but for what they do vs how much they cost...

just another option that you might not have considered...

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by HaXx

i dont blame you, i just looked at ftspeed and camber plates are between 300-400 USD. you might look into onimade camber plates. 200+25 shipping USD. Im not sure if you can use camber plates on stock struts. i know you might not ilke them bc theyre a stance product, but for what they do vs how much they cost...



just another option that you might not have considered...

Thanks for the suggestion! Glad you understand my perspective. I will definitely look into these plates, 200 is much easier for me to stomach.

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[TommyW]

Originally Posted by yzf219

I was under the impression based on my reading that camber added via plates isn't as desirable as camber via the hub due to something called SAI? I don't really understand it, it's just what I read.

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That is Steering Axis Inclination. I does have SOME benefit is certain applications as far as scrub radius however when introducing negative camber that way the tires will most likely hit the struts

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by TommyW

That is Steering Axis Inclination. I does have SOME benefit is certain applications as far as scrub radius however when introducing negative camber that way the tires will most likely hit the struts

Songs like something a low level autocrosser doesn't need to worry about

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[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Pedders top mounts are an option.

I use Pedders top mounts which are good for -.75 along with the 14mm camber bolts (bottom hole) and 16mm camber bolts (top hole) and have achieved -2.75 front camber (aligned by Alex at Burning Rubber in Oakville).
Using a pyrometer, the tread surface shows very similar values all across during 8-10 lap sessions at TMP. This with Conti Extreme Contact Sport 245-45-17.
Using Blox LCA's adjusted at -1.5 rear camber, similar even temps are found out back.
After about 6-7 lapping events these tires, which wear incredibly slow, show dead even wear across their width.

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

I use Pedders top mounts which are good for -.75 along with the 14mm camber bolts (bottom hole) and 16mm camber bolts (top hole) and have achieved -2.75 front camber (aligned by Alex at Burning Rubber in Oakville).

Using a pyrometer, the tread surface shows very similar values all across during 8-10 lap sessions at TMP. This with Conti Extreme Contact Sport 245-45-17.

Using Blox LCA's adjusted at -1.5 rear camber, similar even temps are found out back.

After about 6-7 lapping events these tires, which wear incredibly slow, show dead even wear across their width.

Appreciate the detailed response. One of my plans was to just run 2 sets of bolts.

Did you ever run the car with just 2 sets of bolts and no top mounts? If so curious as to what amount of camber you were able to achieve? Also are you lowered at all?

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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by TommyW

That is Steering Axis Inclination. I does have SOME benefit is certain applications as far as scrub radius however when introducing negative camber that way the tires will most likely hit the struts

Gotcha, I just had a look at the strut to tire clearance. Looks like I still have several mm left at -1.8. Getting a little close though.

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[TommyW]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Gotcha, I just had a look at the strut to tire clearance. Looks like I still have several mm left at -1.8. Getting a little close though.

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Let me know what your specs are

Tire size
Wheel width
Wheel offset
I'll tell you what you can get away with

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

99 civics had double wishbones up front.



I wouldn't bother tracking with less then -3 degrees of camber up front unless I really wanted to destroy a set of tires. Competitive autox setups are around -4 degrees camber up front.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

99 civics had double wishbones up front.



I wouldn't bother tracking with less then -3 degrees of camber up front unless I really wanted to destroy a set of tires. Competitive autox setups are around -4 degrees camber up front.

Just a "lets butcher a base sedan Civic to make it cool" reference. Was not intended to be accurate nor truthful.

[Ernest72]

OP, why not ask a vendor like RCE or CSG. They have a lot of experience with there own cars and sell suspension parts.

[Drifter X]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Pedders top mounts are an option.

I second this. Mount them with the holes facing towards the engine for Max camber.


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