Edelbrock SC or sell for something faster?

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by B T

I was reliably supercharged on stock engine for 45k miles. Blew up without warning. Now built motor and I still worry.

Can you briefly summarize your setup, please?

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by HaXx

If you want something fast get a sportbike. There is no such thing as a fast car, you cant change my mind. I have a 200whp s1000rr.

What's the point of bringing bikes into this? And, I disagree with you that there's no such thing as a fast car compared to a bike. Take your bike to a track or tight twisties and see whether you can keep up with a well equipped sports car and skilled driver.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by HaXx

There are (I'm not sure) hundreds and hundreds of people who have been reliably supercharged on 9psi for years. It's not a time bomb. Doing the valve spring recall is s time bomb. If you want something fast get a sportbike. There is no such thing as a fast car, you cant change my mind. I have a 200whp s1000rr

As far as a car, I would just get something fun that you like. A supercharged frs/brz for example.

There are hundreds and hundreds of people that did the recall without problems. More of them have fallen prey to poor mods than ever will from the recall.

You are correct though there are plenty that mod with no issues. They knew and accepted the risk and were paid off with the power they wanted and still having a reliable car.

A sport bike is a horrible answer to replace a car.
If you want something fast get an F-22 Raptor.

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

If you want something fast get an F-22 Raptor.

Any passenger jet will do. You can take a piss, eat pretzels or sleep going 550 mph, which is faster than any street bike will go.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by shiumai

Any passenger jet will do. You can take a piss, eat pretzels or sleep going 550 mph, which is faster than any street bike will go.

But you can't blow shit up!

Well, you can I guess. Once.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Anytime you add power you’re compromising reliability. A lot depends if you enjoy modding. The 86 is a cheap mod platform as opposed to say, a Cayman. It’s tough to beat the handling of the 86. You won’t find that except for a Miata unless you spend a lot more on something like a 4C or Elise. S2000 is also a good platform.

Cost and cost of maintenance and repair always need to be factored in also. The bummer is any modding is money down the toilet on top of yearly depreciation. If I didn’t love the track I’d get a Cayman and leave it pretty much stock.

I always find the Cayman vs. Twins/S2000/Miata comparison interesting. The Cayman/Boxster are better on paper and quicker, but can feel less fun on the street. For me, it was a combination of the perceived weight, slower steering and longer gearing. I sold my 987.2 Boxster S and kept my FR-S. A friend of mine just did something similar, putting his 986 Boxster S for sale and picking up his second S2000. Said he preferred the agility of the S2000 chassis and I knew exactly what he was getting at. Both of us are fine with giving up some power.

If I knew I absolutely wanted 300+ hp though, I'd probably go with a 987.2 (or newer) Boxster S or Cayman S for the reliability at those power levels.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by HachiRokuX

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Are you tracking the car or just want a fun spirited DD do to some back road, twisties, hwy pulls etc..

For a reliable track car it’ll cost you a pretty penny to FI.

For a fun street car you don’t need near 5 figures in supporting mods.

4k turbo
1k tune
Self install
400$ oil cooler.
600$ tires
All in 6k$ pushing 250-270whp on pump gas around 7-9psi.

Should be pretty reliable and pretty fun. Do some weight reduction next 1whp to 10lbs weight is a good ratio to have fun in a straight line. Suspension to enhance the driver feel and improve handling in twisties.

The more you can DIY not only the cheaper to do upfront but the easier/cheaper to maintain. Just make sure you do it right the first time to not create more problems. But it’s really not that hard.

[ls1ac]

He wants to go faster. Where? Why? He has been driving the car for a while, so what is he trying to get out of his car? Stoplight, drag strip, around corners, at the track? He needs a reliable DD. Talking about not spending and at the same time getting a Cayman.


???

[HaXx]

I have said this before, I do not think supercharging the car is worth it FOR MY PURPOSES. I use the frs/brz for dd. Maybe the occasional track day bc they're a blast. The 86 in base form is an absolute delight to drive. Add a catback, lowering spring, tail lights and call it a day, it needs nothing(maybe tires). In stock form it does not need anything for our (dd) purposes. I hate to say it, but the JRSC is a $6,000 chip on my shoulder. That's all it is. I simply do not utilize it. Sure I get on it from time to time, I have fun, but that's all it is. I really do not drive the car rough. I buy groceries for crying out loud.

So dont let anyone tell you that forced induction is superior over normal aspiration. It's just a decision. You certainly dont need it.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by HaXx

I have said this before, I do not think supercharging the car is worth it FOR MY PURPOSES. I use the frs/brz for dd. Maybe the occasional track day bc they're a blast. The 86 in base form is an absolute delight to drive. Add a catback, lowering spring, tail lights and call it a day, it needs nothing(maybe tires). In stock form it does not need anything for our (dd) purposes. I hate to say it, but the JRSC is a $6,000 chip on my shoulder. That's all it is. I simply do not utilize it. Sure I get on it from time to time, I have fun, but that's all it is. I really do not drive the car rough. I buy groceries for crying out loud.

So dont let anyone tell you that forced induction is superior over normal aspiration. It's just a decision. You certainly dont need it.

I tend to agree that it is not needed. But this is a sports car more hp always helps. JRSC especially keeps the car as it just magnifies all the fun without changing its good qualities. That is not just me saying that.

[HachiRokuX]

I appreciate the different perspectives shared so far. Just to clarify:

-I will use the car as a DD and for monthly/semi-monthly autocross.

-I would not be installing it. The all in cost with install+tune+Jr dual oil cooler would be 5200-$6000.

-I guess my main concern is not spending more money, but dumping more money into an 86. No matter what, it will always be an entry level Toyota.

-It has been dead reliable in the 40k miles I’ve driven it. I don’t want it to be my life, spending weekends troubleshooting boost leaks, part failure etc.

Let’s say it’s a $45k Toyota after all my mods+a replacement engine. That’s too much to spend/reserve for the 86 imo. I truly feel like I’m at a crossroad where I either cut my losses and get something else or gamble with the 86.

BUT the fact that it’s been reliable so far makes me think it could potentially handle boost.

Basically, I’m a mess.


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[dejahboi]

I DD my Edelbrock FRS, and i've probably put about 40k miles on it, and its been almost 2 1/2 years. It still runs great, and I'm tuned by Delicious Tuning.


I just recently removed my UEL and switch back to the CARB tune for smog purposes; but I haven't had any type of reliability issues.



Also side note, I bought this SC second hand and the original owner had a very early release version of the kit. The only thing I updated was the coolant reservoir. I have no issues with the bypass valve *cross my fingers*.



EDIT: Forgot to add I've been on the stock clutch with this set up for the last 2.5 years as well. I just recently upped my clutch 2 months ago when I had the recall done to my car, and I'm going FF with the DD setup soon.

[86TOYO2k17]

@HachiRokuX
FI can be reliable, it’s less reliable than non FI, but to what extent depends on how much power you’re making over stock, and how often you use that power, how you manage/monitor temps, and a little bit of luck.

[TommyW]

Good headers, delicious tune for e85 or 95 octane and bang for the buck is better imo than FI. Plenty of power for the chassis and no torque dip.