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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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11-18-2014, 12:55 PM | #155 | |
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11-18-2014, 01:26 PM | #156 |
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Keep me posted. I am concerned about anything I may have overlooked and will update the procedure accordingly. Thanks for the updates!
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11-18-2014, 04:39 PM | #157 |
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It seems to me if you lower the "touch point" too much, you might put it past the center of the assist spring, which would then cause the pedal to not pull back completely.
You should never need to pull the pedal back with your foot. With the assist spring removed, the pedal may fall forward TO the touch point (so, no dead band) but you should be able to pull the pedal back maybe 1/2'', or basically have 1/2'' of deadband when properly adjusted. On my car, if I had removed the assist spring, and the pedal were to fall forward to the touch point, I'd personally install a light spring to pull the pedal back. Then, I'd have my 1/2" of deadband travel to the touch point. The assist spring makes it difficult to feel the touch point, it makes the whole stroke kind of vague. If you know what you're feeling for, you can still feel the touch point though. I think many Many people are running with mal-adjusted clutches, causing the hard to engage 1st and dragging clutches. I installed the ACT clutch on my car, and I had to adjust mine as I've suggested, and it made it MUCH better. Night and day. In a nutshell, adjust your clutch so you have 1/2'' deadband/free travel to the touch point, and you should be good IMO. |
11-18-2014, 06:11 PM | #158 |
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When I say "touch point" I'm referring to the point at which, as the clutch pedal is released, the first "bite" of clutch engagement is felt. If anyone knows of a better term to describe this, please correct me. Thanks.
Bite point? I agree with Mike. Lots of clutches now adjusted with not enough disengagement being forced into gear and dragging. |
11-18-2014, 06:34 PM | #159 | ||
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Stock everything clutch, but with the spring removed and clutch pedal lowered to 1-2mm above the brake pedal. Is that too low.
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11-18-2014, 07:45 PM | #160 |
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I read about people adjusting their clutch pedals in relation to the brake pedal. This IMO is not correct, as I think people are actually lowering the "touch point", adding dead band, and in turn, the clutch is not being full disengaged, even when the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor.
IMO you want the most travel you can get from the slave cylinder, and this means the pedal should begin "pushing" the master cylinder as early as possible. This is why I say set the clutch with just 1/2'' of dead play (you want a little play so you don't continually spin the throwout bearing), this gives you maximum actuation. I can say that my car stock, and also with the ACT clutch, the clutch was not adjusted optimally. After adjusting my clutch the action was much better. |
11-18-2014, 07:55 PM | #161 |
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The clutch pedal acts on the master cylinder immediately at no matter what point it is adjusted. This is by design. It is impossible to add extra dead throw at the top. The only thing that can be adjusted is the total amount of throw of the cylinder.
Adjusting the clutch relative to the brake pedal is BAD ADVICE. Never mind where the other pedals are. Adjust the clutch for proper operation. Is this what the accepted adjustment DIY says? I need to read it more carefully. There are 2 critical adjustments. 1. Make sure the clutch disengages fully (and then a little safety factor) at the bottom. The issue with the factory adjustment is that the clutch fully disengages way too early. There is a bunch of arc wasted at the bottom of the throw. 2. Adjust the clutch switch so it doesn't keep the clutch master piston from fully extending. This is critical for the self-adjusting feature inherent in the design of this system. |
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11-18-2014, 09:15 PM | #162 |
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Adjust the pedal engagement height ( see DIY)
I had trouble getting used to the clutch also. Mine now engages just off the floor and after driving 5k I'm ready to move it up a hair I find it also depends on my shoes (size14) if I'm wearing my driving shoes much better feel. |
11-18-2014, 11:12 PM | #163 | |
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People adjust their clutch pedal relative to their brake pedal because they've found that its a good spot to have it relative to when the clutch will engage/disengage (for the stock clutch). I have my clutch pedal parallel to the plane of my brake pedal and when i have the clutch fully pressed in its fully disengaged, about an inch to inch n half from the floor you'll feel the clutch start to engage. Also that thread does not really give a good way of adjusting the clutch pedal, there is a far easier way buried in the thread but is not outlined in the DIY. In the "clutch pedal adjust" thread, check out pg 14 post 288, pg 20 post 420 and pg 18 post 384. Instead of going through all the trouble in the DIY the simple way is to remove the pin & plastic cap then adjust the u shaped clevis, I don't know the entirety of the other way but its more complex and involves the cruise control sensor.
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11-17-2015, 04:10 PM | #164 |
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Not sure if anyone has seen this. It's the patent for the damper on the clutch master cylinder.
http://www.google.com/patents/EP1457702A1?cl=en
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11-21-2015, 02:25 PM | #165 |
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My SRT4 has a stage 2 clutch and I stalled that maybe once driving it for 2 years and I've stalled this at least 5 times in the month I owned it. Not only is the release point really weird it doesn't have much feel to it. Granted my SRT4 makes more than twice the tq and almost double the whp that the Twins do but still.
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11-21-2015, 02:56 PM | #166 | |
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11-21-2015, 03:22 PM | #167 |
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Took your advice, Ultramaroon. My slave cylinder arrived yesterday. Hope to install it on Tuesday. Thanx for all your help.
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11-21-2015, 04:16 PM | #168 | |
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Just to drill it in some more, remember, the DIY photos show the *cough* wrong part. I mention buying it on a whim in this thread and I never bothered updating. It's still installed and works just fine. I do need to add something about applying a dab of high temp - high tack grease to both ends of the pushrod. Wheel bearing grease will work but the tacky stuff is what's specified.
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