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Old 10-06-2021, 11:53 AM   #1
GPhilly
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Question Has anyone installed OEM Audio+ and Sound Deadening at the Same Time?

I have both materials and the audio system on order. I am wondering if any of you guys installed both at the same time. If so what is the easiest way to go about it?

Should I do OEM Audio+ first, make sure it works then add the Sound Deadening before putting the trim back together?

My other option (thought) would be do it by section. Do deadening and audio on the door first then move on.

Any tips?


My end goal is to deaden the whole car (doors, floor, trunk) and add the OEM audio+ system to my car. I am also aware of the larger threads that breakdown the whole process of sound deadening the car however I am not sure how it will conflict with my install on the audio system.

Last edited by GPhilly; 10-06-2021 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Added extra information
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Old 10-06-2021, 12:40 PM   #2
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I would do both at the same time since it will be easier to run wires. I just did amp and sub and deadening at the same time. It took me approx 2 full days (about 16-18 hours). That's removing front seats, removing door panels, making an amp mount, mounting speakers and modifying speaker mount in door, cutting and measuring CLC/CCF/MLV. Should be a couple hours less for you since OEM audio+ is more plug and play. There shouldn't be any conflict.

Also with deadening do more than just CLC as it's a misconception that clc alone deadens your car.
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Old 10-06-2021, 01:25 PM   #3
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I would do both at the same time since it will be easier to run wires. I just did amp and sub and deadening at the same time. It took me approx 2 full days (about 16-18 hours). That's removing front seats, removing door panels, making an amp mount, mounting speakers and modifying speaker mount in door, cutting and measuring CLC/CCF/MLV. Should be a couple hours less for you since OEM audio+ is more plug and play. There shouldn't be any conflict.

Also with deadening do more than just CLC as it's a misconception that clc alone deadens your car.
I think my concern is about getting lost in OEM+ installation steps because I have to take a break and fill in sections with SD material.

And thanks, I did actually order Resonix Barrier as an MLV (sound blocker) and some CLD tiles (reduction of vibration). I did a decent amount of research beforehand, but I couldn't find any resources on installing both together.
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:10 PM   #4
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I think my concern is about getting lost in OEM+ installation steps because I have to take a break and fill in sections with SD material.

And thanks, I did actually order Resonix Barrier as an MLV (sound blocker) and some CLD tiles (reduction of vibration). I did a decent amount of research beforehand, but I couldn't find any resources on installing both together.
I used this guide:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53511

For the butyl tiles I used strips in dipped areas of the metal and just knocked around and added more until knocks became a thud. I used ccf on top and then MLV on top of that. The ccf I used was noico and I was pretty happy with it (itís also super light)
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:22 PM   #5
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I used this guide:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53511

For the butyl tiles I used strips in dipped areas of the metal and just knocked around and added more until knocks became a thud. I used ccf on top and then MLV on top of that. The ccf I used was noico and I was pretty happy with it (itís also super light)
I saw that as well. Definitely seemed like the most thorough guide and will plan on using it.

How much of a noticeable difference did it make in the interior? If you have quantitative data, can you share it? I saw from other threads people got about a -7dB difference which is pretty significant.

I am expecting the results to be able to hear some of the exhaust with the windows up and not overpower the new stereo. But when the windows are down to be able to hear the sweet loud exhaust. Basically a more premium feel since sound seems to bleed through the car at the moment.
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:54 PM   #6
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I saw that as well. Definitely seemed like the most thorough guide and will plan on using it.

How much of a noticeable difference did it make in the interior? If you have quantitative data, can you share it? I saw from other threads people got about a -7dB difference which is pretty significant.

I am expecting the results to be able to hear some of the exhaust with the windows up and not overpower the new stereo. But when the windows are down to be able to hear the sweet loud exhaust. Basically a more premium feel since sound seems to bleed through the car at the moment.
I don’t have any quantitative data however I did immediately notice that it became harder for me to take off from a stop in terms of clutch feel. I realized it was because I was gauging it based exhaust noise (I also deleted the sound tube during this install, so could be that as well). It’s also easier to have a talk with a passenger and I don’t have to speak as loudly. I used 1/2 lb MLV.
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Old 10-08-2021, 10:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPhilly View Post
I have both materials and the audio system on order. I am wondering if any of you guys installed both at the same time. If so what is the easiest way to go about it?

Should I do OEM Audio+ first, make sure it works then add the Sound Deadening before putting the trim back together?

My other option (thought) would be do it by section. Do deadening and audio on the door first then move on.

Any tips?


My end goal is to deaden the whole car (doors, floor, trunk) and add the OEM audio+ system to my car. I am also aware of the larger threads that breakdown the whole process of sound deadening the car however I am not sure how it will conflict with my install on the audio system.

When I added the OEM Audio system to my FRS, I also added sound deadening material at the same time, but I did some of the install in stages. Did you get the reference system with the replacement speakers? If so, you can do the two doors separately before you install the whole system since it is just swapping out those two door speakers. You could also add deadening material to the truck area before you begin the full install. I would recommend doing the back seats at the time of the full install since you will need to remove some of the paneling there to run wires.
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Old 10-08-2021, 07:01 PM   #8
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it shouldn't be a problem. i would break it out into 'while i'm here' steps. ie, while disassembling the passenger side door speaker, do all of the deadening of that panel during that time before putting the oem+ stuff in.
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Old 10-13-2021, 04:19 PM   #9
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When I added the OEM Audio system to my FRS, I also added sound deadening material at the same time, but I did some of the install in stages. Did you get the reference system with the replacement speakers? If so, you can do the two doors separately before you install the whole system since it is just swapping out those two door speakers. You could also add deadening material to the truck area before you begin the full install. I would recommend doing the back seats at the time of the full install since you will need to remove some of the paneling there to run wires.
I did end up going with the Reference system. Thanks for the tips, this was the kind of info I was looking for.

I wanted to avoid having a bazillion pieces of screws/parts as well as Mlv scrap around doing the install. Like Soundman said, it sounds like a do as I go type deal. Thanks all
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Old 03-22-2022, 02:18 PM   #10
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I started working through this project a couple days ago and its going good so far.

I decided to focus on the OEM Audio+ system first to get the wiring in place and working. This system sounds really good! I kept the panels off and applied MLV and CLD where I could.

The first area I covered was the door cards because I knew that once I swapped the speakers, I could put it back together and focus on the rest of the car and keeping everything tidy. Disassembly is not hard and can be done by one person but I struggled putting the door card back with the layers even with 2 people. The fitment is tight and not much give once everything is plugged in and sandwiched together.

My car is now stripped and I have to do the footwells and truck. Hoping to see some good results.

Some data from before the project:

70 db at idle
88 db loudest point at WOT

Boxes full of material (I will weigh at the end of the project to see how much was used)
73 lbs MLV
42 lbs CLD
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Old 04-04-2022, 07:47 AM   #11
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I finished the install this past weekend. It took longer than expected due to having issues with the subwoofer. I would say this could take anyone about a week + 2 weekends to sound deaden the whole car (if you work a 9-5). It took me 2 weeks.

The results were worth the time spent. I will still have to grab some quantitative data but just listening, the car sounds a lot quieter. The OEM sound system itself sounds really good but with the sound deadening, you can bump music very loudly and not hear it outside the car if the windows are closed. Only the exhaust can be heard outside the car (perrin catback + catted jdl uel). Sounds fantastic in the car.

I used all of the MLV I had and had 11lbs of CLD left. I would say the car added about ~105 lbs. I did the doors, floor, trunk and backseat side panels. Car drives pretty much the same. I'll drop my review of OEM Audio + in here too.
@oemaudioplus

Sound
5/5 stars. I can't complain, sounds fantastic stereo wise. I am slightly picky due to having a monitor and sub setup for producing so it sounded a little bass heavy but its perfect when driving.

Install
2/5 stars
The install wasn't hard however I was having issues with my subwoofer not playing and had to go through tech support for about a week. I worked with Rick over the phone/facetime and he was very helpful when diagnosing what was wrong with my system. After a new wiring harness was sent, I was still not getting power to the sub amp. The issue turned out to be the ground cable in the power connector did not have a good connection. Once spliced and put back in, the sub fired with no issues. I did not want this to be a complaint, however I just wanted to log my experience/issues.


All in all, very happy with the way the car sounds!
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Old 04-04-2022, 09:41 AM   #12
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I finished the install this past weekend. It took longer than expected due to having issues with the subwoofer. I would say this could take anyone about a week + 2 weekends to sound deaden the whole car (if you work a 9-5). It took me 2 weeks.

The results were worth the time spent. I will still have to grab some quantitative data but just listening, the car sounds a lot quieter. The OEM sound system itself sounds really good but with the sound deadening, you can bump music very loudly and not hear it outside the car if the windows are closed. Only the exhaust can be heard outside the car (perrin catback + catted jdl uel). Sounds fantastic in the car.

I used all of the MLV I had and had 11lbs of CLD left. I would say the car added about ~105 lbs. I did the doors, floor, trunk and backseat side panels. Car drives pretty much the same. I'll drop my review of OEM Audio + in here too.
@oemaudioplus

Sound
5/5 stars. I can't complain, sounds fantastic stereo wise. I am slightly picky due to having a monitor and sub setup for producing so it sounded a little bass heavy but its perfect when driving.

Install
2/5 stars
The install wasn't hard however I was having issues with my subwoofer not playing and had to go through tech support for about a week. I worked with Rick over the phone/facetime and he was very helpful when diagnosing what was wrong with my system. After a new wiring harness was sent, I was still not getting power to the sub amp. The issue turned out to be the ground cable in the power connector did not have a good connection. Once spliced and put back in, the sub fired with no issues. I did not want this to be a complaint, however I just wanted to log my experience/issues.


All in all, very happy with the way the car sounds!

I also had an issue with a ground when I did my system (not OEM audio +) and once the bass hits it's so nice!

Enjoy.
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