Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[tomm.brz]

log is a bit short i hoped to see a more vary log of you driving around, also not even hot enough and i don t know the rpm to idle tables in your delicious tuning tune, 65 Celsius only maybe it s really commanded that high?
Does it sits at 1150 rpm also when fully warm at 88 Celsius?

Only "weird" thing i can see from this short log is a bit positive fuel trim, but not by too much, could not be relevant , as i never have seen a delicious tune with a perfectly spot on maf scaling/SD Volumetric efficiency, they rely really much to Ecutek closed loop correction and subaru oem fuel trims to make everything look good

usually fuel trims go positive when there is a small leak in exhaust btw

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

log is a bit short i hoped to see a more vary log of you driving around, also not even hot enough and i don t know the rpm to idle tables in your delicious tuning tune, 65 Celsius only maybe it s really commanded that high?
Does it sits at 1150 rpm also when fully warm at 88 Celsius?

Only "weird" thing i can see from this short log is a bit positive fuel trim, but not by too much, could not be relevant , as i never have seen a delicious tune with a perfectly spot on maf scaling/SD Volumetric efficiency, they rely really much to Ecutek closed loop correction and subaru oem fuel trims to make everything look good

usually fuel trims go positive when there is a small leak in exhaust btw

I do have a small leak at the muffler that I'm fixing. And yes when fully warmed up to temperature it still idles high. It only has started idling high recently before it idled at the correct rpm.

[tomm.brz]

a leak in the muffler is too far and hardly a problem.. anyway
you have racerom 11
old tune with probably lot of bugs

Ask delicious to send you a more updated tune because the currently one you have gives you the dtc and high idle
I ve heard other times of similar problems... ALL with delicious canned tunes. All of them. Ask delicious to fix this
Or change tuner

[Chris3007]

A question for the folks that have installed the works oil cooler / regulator on the car. How did you route this hose coming off the throttle body? Installing it as intended, when you put the silicon coupling on it pushes the hose so far it makes contact with the belt. How did you do it? Any creative routing suggestions?

[B T]

Originally Posted by Chris3007

A question for the folks that have installed the works oil cooler / regulator on the car. How did you route this hose coming off the throttle body? Installing it as intended, when you put the silicon coupling on it pushes the hose so far it makes contact with the belt. How did you do it? Any creative routing suggestions?

I actually bypassed mine but that may not be a great idea for you in NY. Can you find a hose with a built in elbow to replace it with?

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Just got off the phone with Tony from EB, their main SC tech. He told me some very interesting things about the Filter that everyone has to do apparently.

1. EVERYONE needs to REMOVE the sealant you applied to the airbox seal. They found that it contaminates the MAF sensor and get all sorts of weird behavior (J02 anyone?). The sealant no longer shipped with the kits roughly 1.5 years ago and they're advising everyone to clean it off if you've applied it

2. DO NOT use the OILed version sold on K/N website. ONLY use dried, they switched to using a special EB only dried K/N filter that's painted red (no oil) in 2017. He advised us to use K/N cleaner ONLY then wash with water and then dry in the sun for 2 DAYS! just to be sure because the cotton very easily traps water. Also he said to vigorously shake it to get the water out lol

EB part number is 51-0157
K/N special part number is SP-3737

Again do not use the OIL spray, or sealant. It fucks things up apparently.

@devtec

I am a dumbass and applied O-ring silicone lube to my dry K&N filter.

Maybe this is why I am still experiencing hesitation and -18% long term fuel trims?

What is the part number for the dry filter, I am going to order a new one and reclean my MAF sensor.

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

See this post.. guy reported mostly hesitation/stuttering.

I actually see this on 1st going downhill in slight traffic with my foot off the pedal. haven't gotten logs yet since it only occurs going slow downhill for some reason. Its like the throttle is doing rapid fire bursts.

@devtec

Did issues come back long term after replacing the PCV valve?

I am having the SAME exact issues you were having. Only thing I replaced so far were the intake manifold gaskets which seemed to help for about 100 miles or so.

It seems to have helped short term trim, but car still drives like shit and sees bad LT trim.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

@devtec

Did issues come back long term after replacing the PCV valve?

I am having the SAME exact issues you were having. Only thing I replaced so far were the intake manifold gaskets which seemed to help for about 100 miles or so.

It seems to have helped short term trim, but car still drives like shit and sees bad LT trim.

Did you check the bypass valve yet? Mine was leaking and was producing a loud hissing and sucking sound. When I did a smoke test through the intake it didn't leak. Only when I plugged my smoke machine line directly into the bypass valve did I see it was leaking like a sieve and I have the old bypass valve.

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

Did you check the bypass valve yet? Mine was leaking and was producing a loud hissing and sucking sound. When I did a smoke test through the intake it didn't leak. Only when I plugged my smoke machine line directly into the bypass valve did I see it was leaking like a sieve and I have the new bypass valve.

How did you do this without damaging the solenoid? Edelbrock instructions say to not tamper with the Bypass Valve.

I have not checked it yet. I do hear loud hissing on start up but cannot tell where it is coming from. Did they send you a new one?

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

How did you do this without damaging the solenoid? Edelbrock instructions say to not tamper with the Bypass Valve.

I have not checked it yet. I do hear loud hissing on start up but cannot tell where it is coming from. Did they send you a new one?

I don't believe a smoke test will damage the solenoid but I'm no expert. My car had a hissing sound that progressively got louder over time. I could definitely tell it was coming from the drivers side of the engine bay.



How is your idle? Is it high? If so another way to test it is pinching the vacuum line that runs to it or removing it completely and plugging it with your thumb and seeing if your idle drops a few rpm and is more stable.


As for the part I just went and brought it straight from Edelbrock it was $70. Probably could have gotten it for free if I really tried but, I just wanted the part asap.



Be fore warned if you do end up having to replace the bypass valve you will have to remove the supercharger to reinstall the upgraded version. The one they sell is V2 of the bypass valve. It is a lot bigger compared to V1 which you didn't have to remove the supercharger to install.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

How did you do this without damaging the solenoid? Edelbrock instructions say to not tamper with the Bypass Valve.

I have not checked it yet. I do hear loud hissing on start up but cannot tell where it is coming from. Did they send you a new one?

Read this post. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...postcount=2368

The bypass valve is just a spring loaded silicon diaphragm attached to a metal rod that moves when vacuum is applied. Just don't apply too much vacuum or pressure when testing, you'll see the normal operating values in that post. It's super easy to check.
If you have the first version, i.e. 3 mounting screws, it's probably leaky. V2 has 2 mount bolts and is much beefier, not to say that it couldn't develop a leak.
And yes, replacing V1 with V2 requires SC removal.

[Panstiks]

What diameter to make my exhaust system?? 76mm(3") 70mm(2.75") 64mm(2.5")
I have the edelbrock supercharger kit

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk

[Hikari1]

Hey everyone, having a weird issue with a high idle at low speeds when pushing the clutch in. It did this intermittently in extreme heat last year but this year after the winter is doing it everytime once the car has warmed up. At low speeds, when I put the clutch in, the car wants to idle at ~2000rpm for a few seconds...

I've checked the bypass valve, it's the updated model, and it's holding pressure and vacuum without leaking.

I've added a log short log of driving it to recreate the problem after a half hour drive to get it up to temp and a video of its behaviour as well...

https://datazap.me/u/hikari1/high-id...?log=0&data=30

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VW6...ew?usp=sharing

[Jeff86]

I have to say that I’ve got a very new Edelbrock SC and a Delicious tune. The warmer the weather has become the more erratic the idle is. It’s super annoying. Right after startup and after driving a fair distance, everything is wonderful… no issues. Get in the car and restarting after going to the grocery and it’s a complete disaster. Idle bouncing and car trying to die. It sucks and I’m about to switch to a tune from CSG. I just want to know… is there anyone out there with this supercharger and a Delicious flex fuel tune that ISN’T having these types of issues at all?