No more BMW turn signals

[joemysterio]

So initially before I got my BRZ, I was reading people's thoughts about it and figured it was no big deal. I had a Mini Cooper S with the same style turn signal which I actually liked a lot.


Fast forward to finally owning my twin and I'm very annoyed with this turn signal. With my MCS, if I fully engage the turn signal but want to cancel it, I just move the stalk half way in any direction and it's instantly canceled. I liked it because it was easy and there was a subtle but noticeable detent before fully engaging.


With my BRZ, I've begun to hate how it only cancels if I engage the stalk halfway in the opposite direction and it feels like the half way point is so light that at times I've accidentally signaled the other way instead. So yeah, I'd be more than happy to try this. Hope I'm able to find a cheap one on ebay as well, would be even better. Thanks for sharing!!

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

This sums it up

https://www.autotrader.com/car-news/...t%20originally.

No doubt you would get used to it in time but then every time you jump into another car...

That's bizarre. That's NOT how it was in my '13 135i.

Slight touch, 3 blinks for lane change.
Push it past the detent, stays on until the wheel is turned or you push it back past the detent to cancel it.

The same as our '18 Mazda 3.

[ROFL it's Waffle]

Originally Posted by CincyJohn

TLDW: Is this just removing the 3 blink lane change feature, namely the same feature that is easily disabled through the head unit in 10 seconds (which I did about a week in after I couldn't stand the 3 blink lane change feature)?

TLDR

Don't waste time in our forums like this. People are here to learn, all you're doing is adding zero value by not watching and sending the OP's thread down a rabbit hole for no reason.

[Sasquachulator]

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle

TLDR

Don't waste time in our forums like this. People are here to learn, all you're doing is adding zero value by not watching and sending the OP's thread down a rabbit hole for no reason.

The amount of discussion about the blinker situation proves that it is one of those things that changed for no reason at all. BMW started this trend, alot of other manufacturers copied but now BMW has gone back to the traditional style blinkers......

Kind of like the shifter buttons or electronic shifter replacing a manual shift lever....with the purpose of "opening up" some space in the center console.....(which it usually doesn't actually do because the buttons are laid out in such a weird way they take up all the shifter space anyways....)

[dawsonj87]

Originally Posted by removedonut

The only part that is needed for this is a gen1 light switch assembly. When I bought mine it was marked as 17-20, but it appears it’s the same from 13-20 regardless. Part # is 83115FJ070, this is about $150 from subaru but i got mine for $40 off ebay.

With the proper repin of the headlight harness, all functions work exactly as expected (including 3-blink lane change), with one minor caveat when it comes to the high beams. There are 2 differences:
1. The gen2 switch sends a momentary pulse when you push the high beams into the on (forward) position, while the gen1 sends a constant output in this position
2. The gen1 stalk also sends output to the wire for the high beams flash (pulling the stalk towards you) while the stalk is in the forward/on position. The gen2 stalk only sends output to one wire or the other, and if there is output on both wires it won’t turn the high beams on at all.

We can solve this in 2 different ways, and i’ve made 2 different diagrams.
The easy way simply hijacks the high beam flash wire and will have the high beams function exactly how you expect them to, but this will break auto high beams if you have an automatic.
The less easy way requires the use of a relay to interrupt the high beams flash wire while the stalk is in the forward position. This should retain auto high beam functionality, but the downside is to use your high beams, you will have to push the stalk forward, and then pull it back to the center again (simulating the momentary pulse of the gen2 stalk). To turn them back off you would once again push them forward, then pull them back to center again.

Repin info:

Depin white pin 12, insulate. This wire will no longer be used. You could optionally move this pin to the pin position for the fog lights and use it to control something, but I haven’t looked into what pin that is yet.
Move pink pin 16 to pin 11. Pin 11 will already be empty.
Move pin 13 black to pin 12.
Move pin 14 black to pin 13.
Pin 14 and pin 16 will now be empty.
*there are other wires pinned in this harness. i have not illustrated them because there is nothing that needs to be done with these wires.

For 6MT, or 6AT if you don’t care about keeping automatic high beams:
Cut the pink wire that is now in pin 11, making sure you leave at least an inch and a half on the connector side of the wire. Insulate the loose wire on the vehicle side of the cut. Connect the connector side of the wire to the red wire in pin 17 via military splice.

For 6AT:
Cut the red wire in pin 17. Connect one side of the cut wire to terminal 30 of your relay, and the other side to 87a. It does not matter which goes where. Terminal 87 will not be connected to anything.
Military splice a wire into the pink wire in pin 11 and connect it to terminal 85 of your relay.
Connect a fused constant 12 volt feed from somewhere in the vehicle to terminal 86 of your relay. We only need <150mA here, so any circuit is fine and you can use the smallest fuse available to you.

Attachment 213679
Attachment 213680
Disassembly info:

Driver airbag:
Disconnect battery. Remove cover surrounding cruise control switch and identical cover on other side. Use flathead screwdriver or similar implement to release the 3 retainers.
Attachment 213681

Use a pick tool to lift the retaining clips on the 2 airbag connectors and remove them. There is also a singular black wire attached with a spade connector, use your pick tool to depress the retainer and pull it off.

Steering wheel: Disconnect white clock spring connector. Remove 19mm nut. Use a straightedge to mark centerline on both the steering column spline and the steering wheel. Use steering wheel puller or brute gorilla force to remove steering wheel. If you are not using a puller, make sure you do not damage the airbag connectors as you remove the steering wheel. It may help to push them through the opening before removing the wheel. For reassembly, the torque spec on this nut is 28 ft-lbs.

Steering column cover: remove 2 philips screws. pull bottom section downwards. Flip top section out of the way.

Clock spring: Release 3 clips, pull towards you. You can leave this plugged in and let it dangle. Make sure you don’t let this rotate, if you spin it 360 degrees by accident and reassemble it that way you will break it when you turn the wheel.

Wiper stalk: Depress clip on the front of stalk, pull out. You can also leave this plugged in and dangling.

Turn signal assembly: Open band clamp with pliers, use a pick tool to release the black clip on the backside. Pull towards you to remove. Look at your new assembly if you have trouble with this.

This is extremely well-documented. Thank you for the great writeup! Coming from a mechanical engineer (note: not electrical... and that is most certainly intentional) this is the level of detail that I like to see when completing tasks like this. Very excited to give this a try when my 23 comes in

[timurrrr]

Did you need to quote the whole thing just to reply 2.5 lines?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Did you need to quote the whole thing just to reply 2.5 lines?

Did you need to yell at him without quoting so he may never know you said anything?

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Did you need to yell at him without quoting so he may never know you said anything?

Don't know if it works the same way for others, but once I post on a thread, I start getting emails about all future posts until I manually unsubscribe.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Don't know if it works the same way for others, but once I post on a thread, I start getting emails about all future posts until I manually unsubscribe.

OH GOD that would suck!

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

OH GOD that would suck!

Especially if people started replying to posts about how replying to posts sends out an email just to send out an email!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

Especially if people started replying to posts about how replying to posts sends out an email just to send out an email!

Do they have to reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post?

[Sasquachulator]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Do they have to reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post?

The choice is on them.
They can reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post, or they can choose not to reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post.

But if we can always go deeper.......

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Sasquachulator

The choice is on them.
They can reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post, or they can choose not to reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post.

But if we can always go deeper.......

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Do they have to reply to the email about how they replied to the post that sent the email that caused them to reply to the post?

And then quote the whole thing.