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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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11-27-2021, 07:37 PM | #57 |
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Since this is more or less the towing thread, as an attempt to consolidate I'll as my question here.
For you guys using R or T hooks, where are you running the strap to? I was looking at Subaru's recommendation and it says to only use the factory rear tie downs in a vertical load, 90* from horizontal +/- 45* Seems to me that running back to a normal traditional tie down point is going to be well outside of that window. Trying to figure out how to tie the rear of my car down and I'm starting to think installing etrack is the only way.
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11-28-2021, 07:23 PM | #58 |
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I added some 90deg angle Rennline hooks to where the RLCA’s mount to the subframe. It has worked really well and makes strapping the car down easy.
With the short distance to your trailer points that should give you a little more room/length Otherwise, yeah, might need e track
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11-28-2021, 10:20 PM | #59 | |
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11-28-2021, 10:40 PM | #60 |
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I’ve used the t-hooks in the frame holes to the tie down points for years on many cars and many trailers and never had an issue. Use those in the rear of the BRZ and the hooks in front.
If you still don’t want to use those you can get a tire block strap like this https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/c...32324072308810 With some surface mounted D rings or some versatrack anchors, easier than a whole run of e-track. |
11-29-2021, 08:29 AM | #61 | |
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11-29-2021, 10:16 AM | #62 |
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The factory ones were long enough. And we torqued them to the normal spec which iirc is around 55lbs
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11-29-2021, 12:20 PM | #63 | ||
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11-29-2021, 03:13 PM | #64 | |
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11-29-2021, 03:57 PM | #65 | |
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There are indentations in the top of the splitter that provide clearance for the hooks, but no access from beneath. I ordered some of the previously linked hooks and will find a spot more forward to attach them to.
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11-29-2021, 04:29 PM | #66 |
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I don't have my splitter setup figured out yet, but my plan was to do like another friend of mine has done on his and make the splitter and bumper quick-release so the splitter can be easily removed and attached for loading etc. Professional awesome sells a really nice quick release kit. Then you can still reach the factory tie points up front, just need a place in the truck bed or inside the car to carry the splitter when its disconnected.
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11-29-2021, 05:55 PM | #67 |
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Yeah, and you also get around needing to use Race Ramps or something in addition to your normal trailer ramps. I had the Miata and S2000 set up that way too.
I have a new set of Professional Awesome QR mounts here, but I noticed they are actually pretty heavy. I'll pull the bumper this weekend and see how much of a pain this will be.
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02-27-2024, 04:08 PM | #68 |
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@RedReplicant,
Would you please share what tiedown solution you came up with. I just bought the exact same trailer and trying to figure it out. I don't have a splitter. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! And apologies for old thread bump. |
02-27-2024, 04:40 PM | #69 | |
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I bought an 18ft wood deck dove tail and I use Mac's up front and some random loops in the rear since the Mac's end up too short unless I remove the sewn in Mac logo, which now that you remind me I'm going to do. I'm getting another aluminum trailer here in a couple of months, but it is an 18ft Alumina.
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03-01-2024, 05:00 PM | #70 |
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Thanks for a quick reply!
I am not going to sell the Featherlite for now, got a smoking deal on it. Just spent couple of days talking to the Mac's guys and after measuring everything I think that their suggestions should work. Plan is to use factory tiedowns front and rear. Will post pics once everything is place. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Koba For This Useful Post: | RedReplicant (03-01-2024) |
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