Potential Cause of rumored GR86’s blown engine? Seal packing(RTV) was peeled off

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Let's face it, unless you are a "car guy or gal" rod knock may mean nothing to you. I seriously doubt warranty would be declined because you "drove to far after started". How would the dealer even know?

Well we're talking about a very specific example that includes how the dealer would know. This guy recorded himself continuing to drive the car after it was obvious something was wrong. On a race track. Which kind of answers the "car guy/gal" thing.

I'm not saying it's a black and white thing every time (or even this time). I'm saying that if you as the owner/driver demonstrate a lack of common sense and abuse the car in a way that warranties don't cover, warranties don't cover your abuse.

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

A dealer isn't going to fix an engine with rod knock, they are going to swap the short block at minimum. It was garbage already as has been said before in this thread. It also only takes a very short amount of time before it grenades' after loosing oil pressure.

This is just semantics. There are VERY FEW cases where a dealership "fixes" a car and returns it to you with no new parts. Whether it's replacing a bad sensor or the whole short block, both qualify as repairs.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

This is just semantics. There are VERY FEW cases where a dealership "fixes" a car and returns it to you with no new parts. Whether it's replacing a bad sensor or the whole short block, both qualify as repairs.

When your argument is this the point is not semantics. In this case the damage was already done. Don't backtrack and move goal posts.

Originally Posted by Spektyr

If damage is done by something covered under warranty, but you ignore it and keep driving the damage PAST that point is not covered because you chose to cause it.

[Stonehorsw]

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Stonehorsw

...time bomb video...

Could this video be any more vague on just how big a problem this is? Terms like "a lot of owners" etc means nothing. Also, starting off the discussion by saying it "started happening with a couple of months of the car coming out" then immediately saying "it happens when tracked cars have 10K or 20K miles on them" doesn't help with credibility. Nor does saying it happens with "modded cars".

I get the point, there is an issue for some people with the vehicle and there have been issues with some of the warranty coverage, but like the valve spring issue they refer to, it's a small limited number of cases out of thousands of vehicles.

[Ultramaroon]

Bullshit clickbait right from the title. Just say no.

[ZDan]

Is it advisable to overfill the oil by 1/2-quart or even a quart to mitigate risk oil starvation at the track, or would that quickly result in frothing issues?

First track days with my '23 are coming up next Mon/Tue at NJMP Lightning! Only mods are lowered ~32mm on RCE SS-2 coilovers, SPC camber bolt at left front, hope to have at least -3 front camber, rear camber is -2.7/-2.1. This car is *way* more asymmetrical than my '17 was! Will be running 225 RT660s on 17x9 +37 wheels, and maybe also 225 A052s on 17x9 +35 if the RT660s do not rub...

Fingers crossed!

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Bullshit clickbait right from the title. Just say no.

Over an hour long, I watched 2 minutes.

[NoHaveMSG]

I am listening to it now and it is pretty garbage.

So far:
Lot of cars, mentions 3 that blew up.
Claims thedrive is releasing an article on a blown up car every month.
Doesn't believe RTV is the root cause, thinks it is lateral G.
Thetopher believes frequent oil changes and adding liquid moly helps.

[NoHaveMSG]

It gets better. Zygrene doesn't think dropping the oil pan to check for RTV is worth doing. He advocates more frequent oil changes, adding liquid moly, and using 5-30. The others disagree on this. One of them being friends with the guy from CM Autohous who is in the bay area and regularly posts video of cleaning GR/BRZ oil pickups. I'm listening, not watching so I don't know who said this. Pretty sure if you have a dealer do this, and they find RTV, they will probably cover under warranty.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

It gets better. Zygrene doesn't think dropping the oil pan to check for RTV is worth doing. He advocates more frequent oil changes, adding liquid moly, and using 5-30. The others disagree on this. One of them being friends with the guy from CM Autohous who is in the bay area and regularly posts video of cleaning GR/BRZ oil pickups. I'm listening, not watching so I don't know who said this. Pretty sure if you have a dealer do this, and they find RTV, they will probably cover under warranty.

Yeah, Subie dealership did this for me. Quoted $397 for the work but warrantied it when some RTV was found in the pickup. I did end up paying something for new oil and filter I think so not totally free but honestly I was gonna be OK with the $397 just for some additional peace of mind.

[fredzy]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Is it advisable to overfill the oil by 1/2-quart or even a quart to mitigate risk oil starvation at the track, or would that quickly result in frothing issues?

First track days with my '23 are coming up next Mon/Tue at NJMP Lightning! Only mods are lowered ~32mm on RCE SS-2 coilovers, SPC camber bolt at left front, hope to have at least -3 front camber, rear camber is -2.7/-2.1. This car is *way* more asymmetrical than my '17 was! Will be running 225 RT660s on 17x9 +37 wheels, and maybe also 225 A052s on 17x9 +35 if the RT660s do not rub...

Fingers crossed!

I feel like overfilling has just as much chance of hurting as helping due to frothing, yeah. I'd say only a Subaru engineer could tell you but they'd probably say

My first track day with the 23 is coming up this weekend as well. No mods except BBK. I never messed with the pan and I'm not concerned about the engine at all. Fresh-ish M1 0w20 and will avoid getting it near 260F.

If it blows up and Toyota will cover it, I wonder if they could just give me a cash payout instead of fixing it? Solve the issue permanently by putting a non-Subaru engine in

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by fredzy

I feel like overfilling has just as much chance of hurting as helping due to frothing, yeah. I'd say only a Subaru engineer could tell you but they'd probably say

You'd have to over fill by multiple quarts before that is an issue. Guys have been running an extra quart in the first gen for a long time.


Back to the video:

Again, I can't see who is saying what all the time but one of the claims is the car is only capable of doing 2-3 laps before overheating and modifications only help that a little bit.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

You'd have to over fill by multiple quarts before that is an issue. Guys have been running an extra quart in the first gen for a long time.

Seems like i have heard of track peeps doing this... I might hedge and add 1/2-quart!

Again, I can't see who is saying what all the time but one of the claims is the car is only capable of doing 2-3 laps before overheating and modifications only help that a little bit.

What is he calling "overheating"? No matter how long I stayed on in my '17, whatever the ambient temps, I never got above 275F indicated oil temp. I have read that that correlates to about 255F in the sump. For me, with 5w30 synthetic, I was never worried... I expect to see something similar with the new car, but will keep an eye on oil temp gauge.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by ZDan

What is he calling "overheating"? No matter how long I stayed on in my '17, whatever the ambient temps, I never got above 275F indicated oil temp. I have read that that correlates to about 255F in the sump. For me, with 5w30 synthetic, I was never worried... I expect to see something similar with the new car, but will keep an eye on oil temp gauge.

They don't say an actual number. All the say is if you see the oil temp gauge getting too hot you should shut it down, one of the guys says he runs full sessions which is way more then 2-3 laps. One guy advocates running a couple laps then a cool down, repeat.


The whole video is like this. They seem to blame lateral force a lot but don't say what pressure numbers they consider starvation. The oiling system on the FA24 isn't that much different then the FA20. The routing from the pickup to the timing cover is actually nicer looking with less bends and passage changes but they keep talking about how tough the FA20 was. They are the same architecture I can see the FA24 maybe being less tolerant due to having more power output IF all other things in it's assembly were equal, but I'd like to believe things like rods and pistons were likely strengthened a bit.