CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[strat61caster]

@Spuds add a degree of camber up front, you may be ok with it, but I guarantee the outside edges of your tires aren’t.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

@Spuds add a degree of camber up front, you may be ok with it, but I guarantee the outside edges of your tires aren’t.

Even if I'm still on 215 regular summer tires at the moment?

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Even if I'm still on 215 regular summer tires at the moment?

Yes

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Yes

YES! For AX or road course you should be at or near 4° in the front.
Stiffen the rear andor soften the front, stiffer setting on rear sway bar. Increase rear spring rate.
Tire air pressure adjustments. You should be monitoring them closely, regardless of size. A pyrometer is a must for dialing in the car's camber and pressure.
There's a ton of info on the web for how to set up a RWD car!
Like: https://www.se-r.net/car_info/suspen...cle%20Dynamics

[churchx]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Even if I'm still on 215 regular summer tires at the moment?

In HPDE extra negative camber noticeably added grip and improved tire wear EVEN with stock primacies i've been on at first trackdays. But obviously will work/help with better tires aswell. Primacies have relatively stiff sidewalls for street tires though, and not sure of -4 is needed, settled on -3 front/-2.5 rear ..

[Spuds]

I increased camber up front. Haven't measured yet but should be around 3°. Also took out some toe in the rear. Hoping I got it pretty close to 0.

[EAGLE5]

How true is this statement?
"The truth of the matter is spring rates really do not affect the ride harshness, especially when we speak about shocks and bumps when running over bumps and potholes. This is more in the hardness of how dampers absorb ultra-fast compression motions."

Please explain.

[strat61caster]

Ever had adjustable dampers? Full stiff and it’s garbage over bumps, big range and full soft sucks too. Really it’s both springs and dampers (and the rest of the suspension design and chassis), but good dampers can cover for sub-optimal springs, you can’t really cover for shit dampers though.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Spring rates, damping, and available travel affect ride quality (and some other little things like bushings and tires etc). All are important IMO.

- Andrew

[cmiovino]

This is going to be a spicy question, but for an upper-intermediate driver, what do you think the actual autocross run difference would be between going with something like the RCE SuperStreet-1's vs. Tarmac 2's?

Given all other things are equal, such as going with a 245/40/17 A052's on 17x9, having rear lower control arms, same alignment with a good 3-4 degrees up front, same power, etc.

I'm kinda torn with going with an all inclusive SS1 setup with tophats and just getting probably 95% of the same performance vs going all in with a ~$3k+ setup with the Tarmac 2's, separate tophats, etc.

Would I appreciate the Tarmac 2's as I graduate into being a more top level driver? Currently have about 10 years experience, 5 of those being on the competitive end.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

This is going to be a spicy question, but for an upper-intermediate driver, what do you think the actual autocross run difference would be between going with something like the RCE SuperStreet-1's vs. Tarmac 2's?

Given all other things are equal, such as going with a 245/40/17 A052's on 17x9, having rear lower control arms, same alignment with a good 3-4 degrees up front, same power, etc.

I'm kinda torn with going with an all inclusive SS1 setup with tophats and just getting probably 95% of the same performance vs going all in with a ~$3k+ setup with the Tarmac 2's, separate tophats, etc.

Would I appreciate the Tarmac 2's as I graduate into being a more top level driver? Currently have about 10 years experience, 5 of those being on the competitive end.

I think the biggest thing you are gaining with the T2's is more adjustability. If you are not messing with your adjustments often or are not overly sensitive to changes I don't think it matters that much.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Spuds

I increased camber up front. Haven't measured yet but should be around 3°. Also took out some toe in the rear. Hoping I got it pretty close to 0.

Just to follow up on this, my current alignment settings are:
Front camber 2.9°
Rear Camber 2.0°
Toe is somewhere between 0° and +0.04° both front and back, which is about as close to 0 as I can get in my garage.

I also went to the stiff setting on my sway bar.

I'm pretty happy with the changes and balance now. Might need to get more camber when I get stickier tires, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Running 0 toe in the rear vs some toe in like before I think is an improvement for autocross, or at least I like it more. The rear is just a bit less stable than before so I have to be a bit more careful on fast direction changes but it's happier getting around tighter/slower corners.

Thanks for the feedback folks.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

This is going to be a spicy question, but for an upper-intermediate driver, what do you think the actual autocross run difference would be between going with something like the RCE SuperStreet-1's vs. Tarmac 2's?

Given all other things are equal, such as going with a 245/40/17 A052's on 17x9, having rear lower control arms, same alignment with a good 3-4 degrees up front, same power, etc.

I'm kinda torn with going with an all inclusive SS1 setup with tophats and just getting probably 95% of the same performance vs going all in with a ~$3k+ setup with the Tarmac 2's, separate tophats, etc.

Would I appreciate the Tarmac 2's as I graduate into being a more top level driver? Currently have about 10 years experience, 5 of those being on the competitive end.

What about the SS2 ? Have you considered those as well

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

What about the SS2 ? Have you considered those as well

The price is the same as the Tarmac 2's and yes, you have to additional camber plates for those, but if you're spending that much, might as well go all the way for a few hundred more.

That's where I think the SS-1 shine. Good valving, KW build, tophats included, sub $2k price.