2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades

[Scargod]

Just got my 2022 BRZ retuned by Calvin at EFI Logics. Now I have the EcuTek blip throttle downshifting and flat-foot shifting added.

I made a Ram Air inlet straight into the air box and a CAI tube and smoothed out the throttle body. With the tune it brought me up to 228 corrected WHP and 200 FPT on a legit (no monkeying with the correction factors or other funny business) Mustang dyno.

This is my track car (at the moment) but is completely street legal and will pass an 86dB track restriction.
With the 245/40ZR17 Continental Extreme Contact Sport Performance summer tires I was able to do a rolling start and spin the wheels with wheel hop so I shifted and through second it kept spinning the tires!

[gnarjunkie]

Originally Posted by Scargod

Just got my 2022 BRZ retuned by Calvin at EFI Logics. Now I have the EcuTek blip throttle downshifting and flat-foot shifting added.

I made a Ram Air inlet straight into the air box and a CAI tube and smoothed out the throttle body. With the tune it brought me up to 228 corrected WHP and 200 FPT on a legit (no monkeying with the correction factors or other funny business) Mustang dyno.

This is my track car (at the moment) but is completely street legal and will pass an 86dB track restriction.
With the 245/40ZR17 Continental Extreme Contact Sport Performance summer tires I was able to do a rolling start and spin the wheels with wheel hop so I shifted and through second it kept spinning the tires!

That's a pretty clean looking inlet.

It seems like a lot for 2hp, but it does seem like it gained throughout most of the rpm band. Higher rpm torque looks like the biggest winner.

Interesting though, it seems like it dropped off more up top after the inlet?

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by Scargod

[I]
I made a Ram Air inlet straight into the air box and a CAI tube and smoothed out the throttle body. With the tune it brought me up to 228 corrected WHP and 200 FPT on a legit (no monkeying with the correction factors or other funny business) Mustang dyno.

I like it. They have a decent blower there too so your results are more realistic than what you'd find on many other dynos with the Home Depot blowers. Would have been interesting to see the plenum pressure before/after. I'd have yarn strips all around it to see what's happening too.

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

I like it. They have a decent blower there too so your results are more realistic than what you'd find on many other dynos with the Home Depot blowers. Would have been interesting to see the plenum pressure before/after. I'd have yarn strips all around it to see what's happening too.

I could get that data when at the track. Mount a camera on the front and see what the air's doing. I could see a diffuser just below the opening might help let air go straight into the opening more easily (if air is not rolling up the face of the front-especially due to the splitter).
I meant to ask Calvin about this, and will, since I can now data log with the EcuTek Phone Flash.

[autosenses]

Looks good!

Any plans on going to limerock this summer? I just signed up for a season of AutoX there. Can't wait.

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by autosenses

Looks good!

Any plans on going to limerock this summer? I just signed up for a season of AutoX there. Can't wait.

It's funny that I used to win quite a bit at championship level SCCA SOLO.
As an ex-SCCA road racer I don't care for autocross at this time.
Also funny is that Lime Rock Park is the closest track to me and yet I don't like how short and flat it is. I've done under a minute lap there in my STI.
You might see me doing a track day there, but likely I'll be elsewhere in New England or WGI, NJMP.

[Scargod]

I installed Buddy Club P1 Racing Ball Joints BC02-BJP1-T001, in the car this weekend. I found that I did not have to remove the spindle or the lower control arm from the car. You need to reposition the spindle so that it is at full lock so the rear is fully exposed. This allows you to get the ball joint fork in place.
I have a lathe so I was able to modify some pieces for pressing out the ball joint from the LCA with a sturdy C-clamp (not shown).
You can see that I used a puller to install the new ball joint.
See the label on the ball joint? You have to remove the area where the label overlaps or it interferes with it going through the socket's hole! You also must remove the silicone rubber boot before installing it in the LCA's socket.

[KillerBMotorsport]

[QUOTE=Scargod;3571388]I installed Buddy Club P1 Racing Ball Joints BC02-BJP1-T001, in the car this weekend. /QUOTE]

What advantage does this piece offer?

[dragoontwo]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

What advantage does this piece offer?

From their website:

By extending the ball-joint of the front lower control arm, the BuddyClub P1 Racing Ball Joint raises the roll center and brings it closer to the center of gravity, thus increasing the vehicles roll stiffness and eliminating any unwanted side-effects to the vehicle's suspension geometry.

Looks like roll center correction.

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by dragoontwo

Looks like roll center correction.

Sweet, thanks!

[Scargod]

What he said...
Along with this Buddy Club extended ball joint (similar to what Whiteline offered at one point for STI's) I changed out the stock steering ball joint ends and used the SPL Roll Center Adjustment Kit to correct bump-steer.
All because of lowering the car a significant amount.
Stock Ride Height (distance between wheel hub center and lip of fender opening) is:
Front: 14-1/2" appx. (Lowered, now at 13.3" appx.)
Rear: 14-5/8" appx. (Lowered, now at 13.5" appx. )

NOTE: As I've mentioned before, there are some 17" rims that the SPL kit will interfere with. My Apex rims are okay but the Volks Racing, forged, TE37 SAGA Time Attack Special Edition wheels (17 x 9.5 44ET) rub at the bottom of the big bolt end against the barrel and they rub at full lock on the hex of the steering rod end. I ground on the spindle's steering bolt and nut till it no longer rubs the barrel. It is a problem with this specific wheel because the barrel's diameter decreases on the inside, whereas most do not! Unlikely to be an issue with 18" wheels.

[Scargod]

A few days ago I tossed my serpentine belt while just driving on the street. The BRZ has 5K miles on it and about twelve track days. As I've mentioned, I turn 7K with 228 HP.
Is it common for these to fail? Fail if racing?
I have a lot of dust from belt wear! This accumulation is almost all from before December of last year (when I installed the headers) and there's been very little mileage and no track days since then. I've not abused the car... much.
Clearance from the wrapped only area of the headers is around an inch. Headers are mostly wrapped and shielded where they come up behind the radiator.
Followup: I added some aluminum shielding to the area next to the water pump pulley. Put a Dayco 5060795 on it. According to whose info you believe it wa 80.25" or 80.19" outer circumference. It was tight getting it on! I removed the top center idler in order to get it on.
The belt looks really solid. Slick on the outside.
I guess I'll get a spare and hope the issue was related to the belt getting too hot.

[Scargod]

I made this recently. it's a Carbon Fiber look vinyl covered aluminum hood vent.

The cutout in the hood was pretty straightforward. I used a low vibration Ingersoll-Rand air saw for free-hand cutting in-between the holes I punched with a 1-1/8" Greenlee knockout punch. The punch fit perfectly into the radius of the two rear corners of the bracing layer underneath. With some minor trimming of the stiffening layer, some bending and a little clearing of the bonding adhesive between the skin and frame, I was able to slip the louvered piece in-between. I used a non-hardening urethane sealant to keep it from moving.
The louvered insert is made of 19 gauge (or one millimeter) aluminum, the same as the hood's thickness.
I used Uxcell Edge Trim U Seal/U Channel Edge Protector for 1-2mm thickness. I used a Cyanoacrylate adhesive to hold it in place. Same trim as I used on my CAI.
Follow-up: When I got through with a 30 minute trip the louvers were very hot to the touch and I could see heat rising through the opening! Glad that's not trapped inside.

[Scargod]

My first track day this year in the 2022 BRZ. I had a really fun day!

Recorded on my Garmin Catalyst, T1-2 (Big Bend into T2) is "optimized" but otherwise it is normal. It was my best lap on a wet day that finally started drying out.
There's no sound because it's an optimized, "best lap". I could have been a half-second faster through T1-2 on that lap.

Tires: Continental ExtremeContact Force 245/40ZR17's. There were still some slippery areas that kept us from going all out on this next to the last lap of my day at 3PM.
I was often chasing a VW Golf GTI endurance racer. They came out to practice. They said they were on old, tired tires. We were almost dead even, with me gaining a bit on the main straight. I was out-braking them a bit. It was great fun and a great learning experience since most of the day was soggy wet. On the uphill the car would get loose.
The BRZ handled great. When it came out it, and I thought I was going to have a tank-slapper, it popped right back on line with just a little correction.