KPower Industries K24 swap

[hedtrip]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

What did you end up using for the isolator? I tried a rubber isolator thing with a stud on each side but McMaster failed me.

It is really just a Bolt with 2 rubber o rings so the intake can move around

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Figured out the issue:
The Kpower fuel pump ECU bypass connector is warped on the pin for the red wire due to excessive heat. This was causing the power to the fuel pump to be intermittent as the male and female pins were losing connection due to the heat warp.

I'll email Kpower to see what they say, but I will likely just permanently solder the wires together or maybe put in a delfi connector as they are a lot more robust than the Kpower connector.

As for the TPS codes I'm not really sure why there were present, but to be safe I threw in my Bosch 74mm TB anyways.

Interesting find. When you say intermittent, do you mean you could hear the fuel pump turning on and off, cycling quickly or flicking on? What do you think caused the heat like was it resistance in the connector not making a full connection like running high amps through a small wire?

[moosefro]

Just an update on the grounding issue in sensors that @RedReplicant found. I was going to implement the fix over the weekend but found that my oil sensor was already grounded to AC1 pin 34. My calibration data for it was just way off, so once that was updated it worked as expected.
For reference, my kit was delivered at the end of October 2022 so people with newer kits might not have to DIY their harness.

[RedReplicant]

That's good news, I'd heard they hired a new wiring dude over there so it is nice to see they're getting stuff sorted out.

[funkjaw]

For those curious, here's an update on the Bosch 74mm TB I threw on about 1000 miles ago...

Initially after install the idle was really high, so as RedReplicant suggested I changed the max dbw open from 6% to 3% and that immediately fixed the high idle (although it's possible after some time the haltech would have just fixed the idle on it's own). Other than that it required zero changes to the tune: drivability and WOT performance are perfect right off the bat and if the Haltech self correcting logic made any changes I definitely didn't notice while driving around.

As far as performance it definitely feels like it has a little more oomph from the butt dyno, but unfortunately I didn't get a chance to do before/after dyno tests because of the nature of my situation dealing with tshooting my no start issue.

Anyways this is a great plug and play solution for those looking to do a cheap upgrade for a couple more ponies, even on an unopened junkyard engine like mine.

Bonus: I also replaced the K&N air filter that comes with the swap kit with a Mishimoto Powerstack Air Filter. I did this because the Mishimoto is larger with an open center section; figured this would give both better airflow and go longer between cleanings vs the K&N. It's tight, but it fights.

Parts list:
Bosch 74mm TB
Kpower TB Adapter
Kpower Bosch Jumper Harness
3" to 3.25" coupler
Mishimoto Powerstack Air Filter - 3" Inlet, 5" Filter Length

[captain awesome]

I was told that in order for the Haltech to learn the new throttle, the idle must be below 3k RPM or similar so it won't ever learn without the adjustment that RedReplicant mentioned. I can't recall if that's specific to the base tune we received or just Haltech in general though.


I've had mine installed for a few months now as well and the only thing I'd add is that the Kpower rubber gasket is atrocious for this application. I hand cut a gasket to replace it since I didn't trust what little amount there is to actually seal the TB to the adapter.

Originally Posted by funkjaw

For those curious, here's an update on the Bosch 74mm TB I threw on about 1000 miles ago...

Initially after install the idle was really high, so as RedReplicant suggested I changed the max dbw open from 6% to 3% and that immediately fixed the high idle (although it's possible after some time the haltech would have just fixed the idle on it's own). Other than that it required zero changes to the tune: drivability and WOT performance are perfect right off the bat and if the Haltech self correcting logic made any changes I definitely didn't notice while driving around.

As far as performance it definitely feels like it has a little more oomph from the butt dyno, but unfortunately I didn't get a chance to do before/after dyno tests because of the nature of my situation dealing with tshooting my no start issue.

Anyways this is a great plug and play solution for those looking to do a cheap upgrade for a couple more ponies, even on an unopened junkyard engine like mine.

Bonus: I also replaced the K&N air filter that comes with the swap kit with a Mishimoto Powerstack Air Filter. I did this because the Mishimoto is larger with an open center section; figured this would give both better airflow and go longer between cleanings vs the K&N. It's tight, but it fights.

Parts list:
Bosch 74mm TB
Kpower TB Adapter
Kpower Bosch Jumper Harness
3" to 3.25" coupler
Mishimoto Powerstack Air Filter - 3" Inlet, 5" Filter Length

[RedReplicant]

Make sure you limit your Bosch TB, I will have to check my tune later but it reaches 90* at much less than 100% commanded throttle.

I've heard from a couple of people that vibration kills these Bosch TBs, so if you notice the car starting to hesitate under acceleration out of nowhere I'd suspect the gears in the TB.

I SUSPECT that it'll help with the TB bolt issue since there is like 1.5" of coupler flex with the Bosch versus like .5" with the BRZ TB.

I'll post the TB settings I ended up with after my tuner went over the car later.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Make sure you limit your Bosch TB, I will have to check my tune later but it reaches 90* at much less than 100% commanded throttle.

I've heard from a couple of people that vibration kills these Bosch TBs, so if you notice the car starting to hesitate under acceleration out of nowhere I'd suspect the gears in the TB.

I SUSPECT that it'll help with the TB bolt issue since there is like 1.5" of coupler flex with the Bosch versus like .5" with the BRZ TB.

I'll post the TB settings I ended up with after my tuner went over the car later.

I'm running TB map that was posted a while back to limit the factory TB... didn't think to check that with the new TB. I'll do that once it's not hailing here in Austin and report back.

[captain awesome]

I'm interested in how you guys set that up. Unfortunately my tuner has some of my settings invisible or locked so I'd just have to forward on the info to get mine tweaked.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I'm interested in how you guys set that up. Unfortunately my tuner has some of my settings invisible or locked so I'd just have to forward on the info to get mine tweaked.

Yeah, when I looked at your map a while ago there is a lot locked behind a passcode.

In Haltech NSP:
Engine Functions -> Drive By Wire -> Max TPS
Type in 93.0 if you have a single cell here, otherwise put 93.0 in every one.

Also make sure that your Engine Functions -> Drive By Wire -> Pedal to Throttle has 100% at 100%.

Engine Functions -> Idle Control -> stuff under here has a bunch of changes but 3% max is your bandaid before a tuner can get to it and see if anything else needs messed with.

[captain awesome]

Does anyone happen to recall the part numbers that came with the heater hose kit from Kpower? I think I have the wrappers with part numbers in my Kpower boxes, but they are in the attic and I'm at work. I'm not in a hurry, just gathering part numbers to keep for future maintenance if I'm on the side of the road.


Edit: Nevermind I found the part numbers. One is NLA so that is neat.

[captain awesome]

“We had issues with throttle bodies falling apart, sensors failing and intake manifolds cracking,” says Smedegard. “With the K24 having a longer stroke, it made a lot of harmonics, especially the higher you rev it. Most places that make intake manifolds don’t set their manifolds to be braced back to the engine–you just mount it to the mounting flange, and that’s it. We braced the intake manifold, which greatly reduced a lot of the harmonics that the throttle body sees and the sensors mounted on the intake manifold.”

As pointed out by RedReplicant earlier about the intake vibes that ASM was experiencing, I decided to make an intake brace. I hammered some 3/4 steel tubing flat on the ends, drilled some holes, and good to go. The two bolt holes that are typically used for a throttle cable bracket and a threaded boss on the block connect the two. It's probably not an ideal angle but has to be better than nothing.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

As pointed out by RedReplicant earlier about the intake vibes that ASM was experiencing, I decided to make an intake brace.[.......]

That's dope man. Was thinking of doing something similar - will likely just have the honda shop fab one up when I drop my car off for the 4piston head install in two weeks.

Let us know if you think it's doing something...

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

That's dope man. Was thinking of doing something similar - will likely just have the honda shop fab one up when I drop my car off for the 4piston head install in two weeks.

Let us know if you think it's doing something...

I think it's doing something but hard to say. The angle of my bracket is the only thing that I'm unsure about. It seems solid though.



The fact that the OEM intake had a brace makes me think it's needed whether ASM says so or not. Until it was brought up I didn't think much of it, but now I can't see a reason to not run one.