KPower Industries K24 swap

[endless_pain]

I can't get the car into reverse with the CAE shifter. Heard from KPower that someone modified their shifter by lowering it, but haven't been able to find that post.
Back in the day I had the TRD quickshift that worked by lowering the shift angle. Wondering if that could work. Any thoughts?
http://www.billswebspace.com/PTR54-18130inst.pdf

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by endless_pain

I can't get the car into reverse with the CAE shifter. Heard from KPower that someone modified their shifter by lowering it, but haven't been able to find that post.
Back in the day I had the TRD quickshift that worked by lowering the shift angle. Wondering if that could work. Any thoughts?
http://www.billswebspace.com/PTR54-18130inst.pdf

I had trouble getting my IRP into reverse at first. I had to play with the mounting position of the shifter to the chassis. Not sure if the CAE has any adjustment, but with the IRP I was able to move it around a little until I got it right. Kpower made tolerances a bit too tight on everything from the shifter to the wiring harness. But due to the tight tolerance my shifter feels amazing.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by endless_pain

I can't get the car into reverse with the CAE shifter. Heard from KPower that someone modified their shifter by lowering it, but haven't been able to find that post.
Back in the day I had the TRD quickshift that worked by lowering the shift angle. Wondering if that could work. Any thoughts?
http://www.billswebspace.com/PTR54-18130inst.pdf

I had to move the mounting plate side to side like the installation guide mentions until it was perfect. Just keep playing with it.

[Irace86.2.0]

Again, I wanted to ask because no one has responded to a previous post: does anyone notice the car has a heavier feel to the steering, or is it just me?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Again, I wanted to ask because no one has responded to a previous post: does anyone notice the car has a heavier feel to the steering, or is it just me?

Feels the same to me but I can’t really compare it easily to my previous FRS which had a completely different suspension setup and stickier tires.

[captain awesome]

New shorter 2 piece driveshaft has been installed and it’s like a different car. Throughout the rev range under power it’s so much smoother. The 3500-4k vibes through the tunnel is gone. There’s still a rattle through the shifter in that range but I think that’s my shift knob extension plus the reverse lockout plastic making sweet love. I’ve shortened my shifter console and will probably test fit when the STI trans mount shows up then have a local guy weld it up. I figure if it’s no better then I’ll switch back but should only set me back a few bucks to try it out.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

New shorter 2 piece driveshaft has been installed and it’s like a different car. Throughout the rev range under power it’s so much smoother. The 3500-4k vibes through the tunnel is gone. There’s still a rattle through the shifter in that range but I think that’s my shift knob extension plus the reverse lockout plastic making sweet love. I’ve shortened my shifter console and will probably test fit when the STI trans mount shows up then have a local guy weld it up. I figure if it’s no better then I’ll switch back but should only set me back a few bucks to try it out.

This is beautiful to hear. What'd it'd end up costing you?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

This is beautiful to hear. What'd it'd end up costing you?

$325 after tax. He had to install a brand new yoke and ujoint assembly so that added costs but it had to be done regardless to fit the larger opening once cut. The front joints weren’t in great shape anyway. Also I added spacers and longer bolts for the carrier bearing. Around 5/8” I think. Just some spacers I had lying around from an old project. I’ll post up some pics later.

After more driving it’s just so much better than before. The rear view mirror isn’t a blur. Pretty sure I can quiet the shifter rattle enough to see whether I’ll bother getting the cut up stock shifter welded. I still have vibes at idle but it would be more tolerable once I get rid of some rattles under the dash. Would be nice if the Fluidampr helped in that department.

[Ebush]

Vibrations in my car are pretty minimal now. I haven’t changed anything other than making sure the trans tunnel has plenty of clearance. I’m using an IRP shifter that has a bit of rattle like normal, but no real vibrations. I’m also not using a dampened crank pulley. It’s aluminum and only weighs .8 pounds rather than 4.1 like stock, so my vibrations should be worse than most. Here is a quick video to show the 3-4K range and some acceleration. Not the best video due to the sun, so sorry about that.

[captain awesome]

Couple pics of the DS.

[Irace86.2.0]

I’ve about to pull the trigger on a Fluidampr damper. The stock unit is solid steel or mildly dampened, so in light of losing the secondary balancing shafts, this seems like good insurance.

I was also wondering if there is an overrunning alternator pulley suited to the K24, so I’ve been looking. I haven’t found anything obvious. The video below shows the benefits in the first few minutes.

[captain awesome]

Here's the work in progress on the shifter console. I hose clamped them together so I can test fit and if needed can move stuff around to align properly. With the Kpower kit the trans is lowered 1.25" over stock from my measurements, so I cut then stacked the console which just so happens to be about an 1". I "think" this should be ready to weld but better to test fit first before committing. 5.5" roughly shorter than stock. If the Kpower shift linkage doesn't fit I'll shorten the stock chunky one as needed.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I’ve about to pull the trigger on a Fluidyne damper. The stock unit is solid steel or mildly dampened, so in light of losing the secondary balancing shafts, this seems like good insurance.

I was also wondering if there is an overrunning alternator pulley suited to the K24, so I’ve been looking. I haven’t found anything obvious. The video below shows the benefits in the first few minutes.

Haven't looked into the alternator thing but interested in what you think of the Fluidampr. It's on my short list but may throw that money at starting a remote tune.

[Ebush]

I don’t notice any extra vibrations in my car from when it had an fa20. I just have the normal IRP shifter buzz/rattle. I have an aluminum drive shaft, aluminum flywheel, 3 puck exedy clutch, non dampened aluminum crank pulley, white line trans bushing thing, and an IRP shifter.

I did have a lot of vibrations the first time I installed the engine. Drove the car like that for 1000 miles, recently pulled the motor to swap head gaskets and increase the clearance around the trans. Now that I’ve made more clearance for the trans I don’t have any vibrations. A piece of the trans sticks inside the trans mount that we needed to hammer. And I believe that’s what was causing vibrations. When installing the engine/trans this time I left all the engine and trans mounts loose. I put a crowbar between the trans and the trans mount that we beat in. Then I tightened the trans mount and moved up to the engine mounts.