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#1 |
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Rear wheel alignment issues... HELP!
I searched the forums and tried to reach out to many people who own this car but no luck. The issue is my rear wheel alignment is off. My left rear driver side pokes out further then the rear passenger side. By almost 1/2 and inch. I’ve replace my coil overs to Bc extreme low, I’ve also replace lower control arms, trailing arms, and toe arms to see if any of this would change this. I’ve gotten 2 wheel alignments and mechanics can not seem to figure out why my alignment pokes more on one side then the other in the rear. I’ve also check the wheel fitment which are the exact same work meister s1r 18x11 offset are +15, tires are the same. What could it be? 🤔 take my word it’s very noticeable pics don’t really show it but when I lower the car even more it shows.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Rambo305kid For This Useful Post: | humfrz (07-02-2020) |
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#3 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to RZNT4R For This Useful Post: | alphasaur (07-02-2020) |
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What is rear alignment spec?
Have you tried swapping right and left wheel to see if issue stays or follows the wheel? Are your coilovers setup to the same exact settings? Are you running spacers? |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
![]() I suggest you go to a different alignment shop, explain your concern and have them fix it. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Joveen (07-02-2020) |
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#6 |
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Your body kit sucks.
You can clearly see it's bowing out where it's not held in by the bolts.
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#7 |
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No difference underneath the fenders still the same issue. I get my fenders are bowed but to be uneven an entire 1/2 inch is not fenders. The specs of the alignment are pretty straight all around. Rears have 2 degree of camber and there’s a very minuscule difference in toe for the rears .3 difference. Is there any type of adjust in the subrame that could be made? I do have stock up control arms so I’m not sure if bushings could be a factor in terms of the poke difference....
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#8 | |
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Quote:
Also, .3 is a pretty large difference in toe.
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Last edited by alphasaur; 07-03-2020 at 11:47 PM. |
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#9 |
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A, your body kit sucks!
B, your car has been wrecked! |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Grady For This Useful Post: | anticubus (07-05-2020) |
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#10 | |
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Quote:
You need to measure from the inside bottom rim of each wheel to a hard, non movable part of the permanent body structure thats the same on each side. Not a control arm etc, but a permanent mount. If that number is off by more than a millimeter or two AND your camber and toe are exactly the same (complex math follows if the camber and toe are different) then something might be tweaked |
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The Following User Says Thank You to JohnH For This Useful Post: | alphasaur (07-05-2020) |
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This is blunt, but probably true if you're not the original owner. 1/2in off is is possible, that's only 1/4in off in the kit plus 1/4in from damage. Get the right shop to "fix" the damage and keep the title clean, and voila, damaged car with no marks. If there's damage pushing a hub out of place your static alignment can look fine, but the suspension will act incorrectly under dynamic loads. Any chance you've had recent track time to feel out odd oscillations during cornering?
I test drove a Fiesta ST that was damaged like this. The bumper line was uneven and sprayed over on one side. It had a slight oscillation taking long sweepers even at public road speeds. A consistent indicator for damage is if there's a line for "One tire/wheel replaced" on the title just before or after a sale, and it's pretty much confirmed if there are panel gap inconsistencies to go with it. I'm also a pessimist. This could all be bad kit fitment if it's a cheap one. I'm honestly rooting for that, unreported frame damage sucks. |
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