Whataboutbob's Innovate SC Install Notes

[whataboutbob]

Here's my install post for the Innovate Motorsports supercharger.

Unfortunately I didn't take a large number of photos as I was focused on getting the install right on the first try, but I made some notes on some things that I felt weren't detailed enough or that I didn't understand until I actually completed the step in the install. I'll add whatever photos I have from the install, and probably take a few post-install to clarify my notes in the next week or so.

Those wishing to follow along in the manual while reading my notes can find it on Innovate's site here: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...T86_Manual.pdf

Reccomended tools:
- Extendable magnetic tool to grab any bolts that you will drop during install
- 1/2 inch socket adapter for the replacement alternator mounting bolt
Reccomended supplies:
- 1 Gallon of coolant for the car from the Scion/Subaru dealer.
Reccomeneded preparation:
- Measure and identify all supplied coolant and vaccum hoses provided in the Innovate kit before starting work. 25.4mm per 1 inch is the conversion.

4.10 There is a 3rd bolt under the ECU. Be careful it is easy to drop this once it comes out.

4.12 The connector for the high pressure fuel pump (figure B) is relased by depressing both sides on their top section which will spread the lower half of the connector and allow it to be pulled up. The connector for the fuel line on both rails (figures C & D) is released by depressing both tabs on the bottom of the connector and pulling the blue section up. The fuel injector rail cover must also be removed in this step, but is not noted in directions.

4.13 The throttle body heater hose on the front of the motor will leak a small amount of fluid when disconnected. Have a shop rag or two handy to mop up the fluid that will come out once the hose has been removed. The second throttle body heater hose is on the driver's side rear of the motor. You should have set aside the new hose from the parts provided with the Innovate kit and be prepared to mount the new hose ASAP. I failed to be prepared for this step and lost about 2 quarts of coolant before it stopped draining.

4.14 A 3mm allen wrench can be used to hold the dynamic tensioner in place once a 14mm wrench is used to de-tension the belt.

5.1 The new engine breather extension hose will route to an inlet on the intake tube. Route new hose so that it will lay under new manifold and exit behind manifold on passenger's side of the car.

5.2 The new throttle body heater hoses will route to the ports on the throttle body after it is mounted to the supercharger compressor. Route these hoses adjacent to the engine breather extension hose referenced in 5.1. They will also exit behind the manifold on passenger's side of the car.

5.3 The evap solenoid shown in Figure A should be mounted so that the hoses are facing the rear of the car toward the firewall. The evap solenoid will mount using one of the holes that was previously used to mount the brake booster line if you have an automatic car (See step 5.6). The provided mounting bolt is a M8x1.25.16 piece.

5.4 and 5.5 I routed the loom extension cables from under the new manifold out the front and up to the associated components (throttle body and MAP sensor).

5.6 The brake booster hard line should be removed in one piece without damaging any parts. The provided new cable assembly is assembled for a RHD car and the directions I was provided were vague about how to disassemble the RHD assembly and re-assemble for LHD car. I ended up re-using the OEM hard line assembly and zip tied it to the firewall. There is an updated set of directions that I did not have available at the time that I did the install that is supposed to provide more detail on what the proper steps are to use the provided new hardware to make up a hose set that replaces the OEM hard lines.

5.7 The figure A diagram identifies 4 parts and the replacement alternator mounting bolt. Parts 2 & 3 were in a bag together. I spent 5 min trying to find part 3 in its own bag. The replacement alternator mounting bolt is a STD 1/2 head. You'll need one STD tool for this part. I would reccomend that you remove the alternator at this point as the odds are very good that you will need to use a flat file to create some clearance as noted in step

5.9. Removing the alternator will ensure that you don't have metal shavings scattered all over the top of your motor which may contaminate your manifold mounting surface and could possibly make their way into the intake ports of the motor depending on how well you covered them in step 4.14. 5.8 The throttle body seal is part number 13 on the parts list. 5.9 I used a flat file to remove material from the alternator bracket. The material is smooth and it did not take much force to grind off the material. I took off the rounded edge as shown in the unlabeled figure and figure A. My clearance basically made the rounded edge flat from end to end. This was the perfect amount of clearance for my install as I ended up with about 3/16 of an inch of clearance. Before you put the supercharger manifold assembly back on your motor make sure you have your coolant, breather hoses, extension looms, wiring harnesses, and fuel rail assemblies (especially the fuel supply line referenced in step 4.12 and
5.13)safely routed or out of the way. It is pretty difficult, even with 2 people, to deal with having to move all of these attachments while trying to get the manifold to set down on the motor in the right place to align with the mounting bolt holes.

5.13 Be sure to also connect the harness back to the high pressure fuel pump. The re-installation of the fuel injector rail cover is also part of this step, but is not noted in the directions.

5.14 You need to have installed the fuel injector rail cover in 5.13 to have the top 2 ECU mounting holes available.

5.16 You should re-connect the wiring and alternator harnesses referenced in 4.8 before you fit the breather hoses to the back of the supercharger. Failure to do this first may make alignment and reconnection of the harnesses more difficult. The supplied vaccum cap failed on my car in the 1st 2 days. You may need to source a more robust (thicker) piece to prevent failure (and associated leaks).

5.17 These directions are seriously lacking. This is a known issue, but I don't have the updated directions as of yet. I ended up re-using the OEM hard line as an interim step.

5.18 Re-connection of the air inlet pipe is fairly straightforward, but it should be noted that depending on how you line up and tighten the couplers the factory airbox may be pulled away from the coupler point on the radiator mounting bar. I ended up re-aligning the air inlet pipe a second time while watching the coupler point to ensure that the factory airbox did not get pulled away.

6.1 If you ended up leaking coolant in step 4.13, you will need to add additional coolant to the system to replace that which was lost. Do this while the car is cold. It is also a good idea to verify that the coolant overflow tank is appropriately filled at this point.

6.1.25 Check the supercharger to verify that there is the proper amount of lubricant in the gearset.

6.1.5 FLASH the ECU!!!! Don't start the car without the tune installed!!!!

Please check back for photos and feel free to ask questions. The whole install took me 5 hours 45 min with one person around at all times to provide me with a second set of hands/tools.

[xjohnx]

Duuuuude.

That's a ton of really great info!

If only I had more but one "thanks" to give.

[Raven604]

Touché

[Pete]

Very cool man. Clearly I won't be using this but thanks a lot for taking the time to write it up and contribute.

[xxscaxx]

can you elaborate on this? Not sure what you mean by vacuum cap.

"The supplied vaccum cap failed on my car in the 1st 2 days. You may need to source a more robust (thicker) piece to prevent failure (and associated leaks). "

Good notes, but I think the directions are pretty good. Yes it lacks a little bit but it takes a few reads and some common knowledge. Yes they don't note to put the injector covers back on but to me that was common sense to try to put them back on.

This will help a lot of people who aren't as tech savvy, so

[DarrenDriven]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

4.10 There is a 3rd bolt under the ECU. Be careful it is easy to drop this once it comes out.

Haha, yeah, my helper dropped that bolt and we spent a few minutes searching for it!

I was taking notes during the install, too, but you pretty much covered everything I noted. I have added this link to the Innovate Owner topic in the links section.

[TemeCal]

@whataboutbob -
Thanks for these great tips! I bought sw20kosh's kit, so I should be installing my (intercooled) kit within the next few weeks. These tips will be a huge help.

I meant to chat with you at FT86Nation. My daughter was at the AutoX event with you, she was driving my car (I was passenger all day). Sorry I didn't introduce myself...but my daughter was having too much fun on the track.

[michael_king]

@whataboutbob hey dude, I should be getting the cable + tune sometime next week I'll pick up coolant and a Bluetooth obd to run torque, should I get anything else ready? I have about 2k miles since my last oil change, will that be okay? Also, what was the oil catch-can you have?


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[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by michael_king

@whataboutbob hey dude, I should be getting the cable + tune sometime next week I'll pick up coolant and a Bluetooth obd to run torque, should I get anything else ready? I have about 2k miles since my last oil change, will that be okay? Also, what was the oil catch-can you have?


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A fresh belt for the SC. Oil should be fine, I change mine every 3.5K. Radium Engineering.